sandy_r

No, not necessarily - but first it would be a good idea to measure the actual current drawn by your bass controls and compare that with an average of a couple of other similar version/age basses. As @LeftyJ suggested, you need to establish whether the current your bass is drawing is significantly different, and if so, why. Correct that first (if necessary), and then you will have a guideline as to the expected hours of use you should get from, say, a 550mAh Duracell A reputable battery manufacturer will publish or display the mAh rating of their batteries, so you can make cost/capacity comparisons with Duracell or Panasonic, etc, and see if you think it's worth buying a slightly cheaper brand

If you want to get a measure of the 'drain' it's better to measure inline on a mA current range, not the voltage across the terminals Battery life will be affected also by the manufactured quality of the battery (eg. more expensive Duracell, Panasonic, etc will have better capacity than cheaper, lesser-known brands) - better ones being rated at around 500mAh = approx 50mA for 10 hours or 25mA for 20 hours, 10mA for 50 hours, etc The discharge graph below, for the Duracell 'Ultra Power' PP3, suggests that an on-load terminal voltage of 8.7V would be expected at a drain somewhere in the region of 2-10mA. If your battery reading was off-load then the drain has probably been higher than that For electronic circuits (as opposed to, say, torches) the minimum usable voltage is usually dictated by the circuit not the battery - ie, how low a supply voltage can the circuit receive and still operate correctly (no distortion or noise) - the battery graph below has an inflexion point around 8v, which is very roughly the middle of its power capacity (unrelated to the circuit needs!)

Hah - almost snatched Disaster out of the jaws of Victory ...the Gerber Control app crashed partway through the run! Fortunately, it was possible to re-align sufficiently and edit the Gcode to continue from the previous trace Continuity all good, happy with new pads around the power Veropins, and so - on to the 'soddering', as my colleagues across the pond used to say

Yes, i'm using a single-side copper-coated pcb blank This board is made of a phenolic type material, not quite as high quality as glass-fibre based boards (which are blue- or green-looking) - but it doesn't blunt the drills and bits in such short order, and the dust is not quite as nasty

I've edited the layout to add wider pads for the thicker Veropins (and used the revision to move a decoupling cap further away from the corner of the Jack cutout) - Gcode files all exported and edited for Grbl controller s/w - full mill-run #2 within next few days hopefully

... @rwillett here has also 3D printed some guitars (skinny-stringed and bass) 6 string thread: Linked here

First full mill-run looks ok - and continuity all good** - but i'm not pleased with my pad layout for the 2 thicker Veropins i have to use for +/- power; this run will probably be ok to populate and use but i'd rather edit the layout to add rectangular pads for those 2 pins (being the largest diameter holes here, at approx 1.5mm) (i'd planned to use narrower-profile pins, which i've got squirreled-away somewhere, but free time has been tight due to some unexpected hospital appointments) (** reflections from the liquid flux applied to the board look like copper 'bridges' in some places)

Here are the schematics for the Bass HC Max 65W Sounds like schematics aren't going to help you much ...and a competent Tech will likely have their own service info

No worries - "So much time and so little to do. Wait a minute. Strike that" (WW) Hope its all good now

Just to clarify (now that we can see colour coding of your cable) - my question was "Presumably you've tried your cable using say, the red plug as input to your HX (with black in the HX output), as well as trying the black as input to the HX (with the red in the HX output)"? [Edit] ...i've just setup this config with my Palmer Bass Preamp and a Zoom pedal (standing in for the HX) So, to answer your question: it all works ok using a headphone in the PBP, whilst Send/Return connected as required (TIP=SEND; RING=RETURN) to an external FX NB you do need to make sure you have Blend control turned up enough on the PBP!

I'm pretty sure that the headphones work in parallel to the other features, not instead, so you should be good to use headphones and FX Send/Return (i can check mine later) Presumably you've tried swapping the 2 mono leads around between input & output of the HX (ie. assume 1 lead is the input first, then try with the other as input)?

This method seems to be quite widely used for low-volume, quick turn-around runs - and can give very good results Some folks seem to struggle with getting consistent depth of cut, despite Z-Axis mapping of the work+support surface but i suspect that is more of an issue on the larger machines - so far i haven't needed to go to those lengths (laminate flooring offcuts seem to provide a more stable and closely-controlled thickness for the 'sacrificial' board) Hopefully, your machine wasn't affected by the heat of the fire, otherwise you may find that some of the 3D-printed parts have warped slightly, causing misalignment of the frame and binding of the drive threads Good luck if you decide to give it a go

Parts arrived - populated unsoldered on proto PCB: spacing ok 2nd mill-run delayed by hospital appointments 😞

I feel sorry for Mr Starkey - he came in for a lot of ..er, stick!

I appreciate your considered input here, Neill, i really do I'm not sure what you think has been going on here, but latterly it certainly hasn't been about trying to give the OP an answer to the topic question - with a clear and relatable interpretation of supporting evidence from the OP type equipment I repeat (again, sigh) that, mysteriously, supposedly 'right'/'wrong' proponents are coming out with the same bottom-line advice that: "that the amp can be used carefully (ie. "less than 200W.") with that speaker, as long as the system is operated below clipping" ...something i stated in one of my earliest posts above Cheers, Neill And now for something completely different: I will just say that after 50+ years working as an engineer in Academic Research, Aerospace and Medical Engineering, and latterly Quality Control, my experience has been that an expert, in any field, is recognised by what they do, and have achieved (ie. evidence-based) - not just by what they say they do I joined this forum to both learn and share any bass, gear and electronics-related knowledge which i may have picked up in my work and interests - i attempt to do that in as clear and helpful a way as possible for people seeking help - people can take it or leave it as they see fit - I am not prepared to enter into what i perceive to be 'points-scoring' exercises ...And says at last just as the time bell rings "Goodnight, now it's time to go home"

[TL; DR...] Fast Forward to photo of completed CNC milled PCB installed in bass (Aria Sinsonido) Tone shaping provided: (a) 8-12 o'clock: Bass boost, Treble cut; (b) 12-4 o'clock: Bass cut, Treble boost Audio clip recorded using new CNC milled PCB (Tone at 12 o'clock; ground-wound strings; direct into Samsung tablet) Sinso-JFET-Pre-Tflat-PBPflat.mp3

[TL; DR...] Fast Forward to photos of v1, revised with better solder pads for battery wire connection - populated, soldered, continuity-checked, control looms made & fitted

Not sure how much longer i'm going to be able to successfully complete fine-detail work, so i'm going to try for a bit of a blitz to round off a few legacy projects... This one is to upgrade my DIY JFET preamp for my Aria Sinsonido travel bass (which i use as an EUB). I bought a small CNC kit a few years back, which i've used to make PCBs for a non-audio application, and i thought i'd see if it could produce a more professional-looking module than my rather scrappy-looking attempt on veroboard:- Schematic for the JFET Pre Photo below shows an initial test mill of the PCB v0 (Laid out using PCB Designer on a Linux-type platform). After a bit of a shaky start, i managed to complete the mill run and all signal traces show good continuity between pin pads (and importantly - no continuity to the infill copper!). I copied and hand-edited the Gcode drill-file to add a 3rd pass which increases the connector pin sizes up to 1mm (from the default component pin diam of 0.8mm). Hoping to do a full, clean run (without the initial glitches) next week Now waiting on delivery of new parts to populate the board - then test my eyesight, and hand-steadyness, with soldering and installing in the bass for test

...strips of hooks, glued back to back, sandwiched between D'addario board & your pedals? - just an idea...

Greetings from a few clicks along the coast to the West! Most quality component suppliers (eg. RS Online, Rapid Electronics, etc. shown below) handle this kind of top-secured (collet-tightening) control knob with colour-coded inserts. Google is your friend (...minimum order P&P not so much!) (...these days you can often find a slightly better deal, item(s) + p&p on am*z*n & eb*y - the former's search facility, however, is rubbish, so use google & include am.z.n uk in search term)

[not needed on journey]

A comparative test which might be useful for evaluation of any Tempo Following feature (for Ableton, Reaper, etc ) could be to initially make a representative live multi-track recording of one piece by your ensemble (without Ableton, etc), and then feed this recording into the package being considered, using each individual track in turn as the Tempo reference - and see how Ableton, et al, shape up It should be possible to compare how closely each package follows the performance tempo, and how well each delivers your pre-recorded offline tracks into the 'live' mix Just my €0.02 Good luck with this endeavour - sounds like a great project with many possibilities!

...yep, more glue - as mentioned above, let it harden for at least half to 1 day before redrilling/screwing BTW pretty sure that when i was fixing straplocks on a couple of basses, the exposed screwthread in the kit was a good bit longer than that shown in your OP photo - possibly even a bit longer than the example below

I'd be very wary of using a heat gun - something like an iron can direct the heat, through the stud, directly to the glue, whereas a heat gun is going to spray heat all around the area (cracked finish?) If you haven't got an iron (or soldering iron, away from tip?) you may be better off using the Vinegar approach, if @Beedster has got good results with that?