sandy_r

...received wisdom on reddit r/woodworking seems to suggest Heat and/or White Vinegar - and if it wasn't exterior type PVA, then a water-dampened pad pressed around the stud for some minutes might do the trick in loosening the glue too :- >> "The different ways to remove glue are thermally, chemically, or mechanically. The correct approach you ned to take depends on what what type of glue was used. ... If it is PVA, use can use heat to soften the glue. You can also soften it chemically with vinegar, but that can react with removal knifes and leave a stain. Use a iron on its lowest setting to gently heat up the piece until the glue reaches around 140-150 F, then the should separate easily with a pallet knife. (This procedure is similar to removing the bridge on an acoustic guitar.)"

...Milo Minderbinder up to his old tricks again?!?

(Headstock looks like a 2x2) It appears to share some parentage with this Japanese monster - released as Burns in Japan and Imperial in the States:-

...one day Rob when you're retired and a grumpy old git, believe me, you'll look back on all your endeavours, and think: "Is it nearly beer o'clock?" ...did you visit the MODBUS rabbit-hole yet?

...that's got the tiny drummer, geetariste and synth player in there

Under quiescent (no-signal) conditions, eg. following power-on with Master Vol at Min, there will only be a small fraction of a volt across the speaker terminals on such an amp (at the exact point where amp and speaker are designed to handle 10s of Volts and 10s of Amps) Normally** of no consequence to Amp or Speaker if the Speaker were to be plugged in at this time (and this is essentialy what many amps do internally with softstart protection relays) - as best-practice, I wouldn't do it, but YMMV [** on an amp within spec!] The OP has received a suggestion for handling the safe dissipation of the energy in this power-on/off Pop if he wishes to pursue this route However, all of the discussion so far is based on the symptoms of the OP issue - because noone (Peavey phone representative included) actually knows what is underlying cause of the noise - is it just a design flaw? - or is it the result of a failure in the amp circuitry, or in any existing softstart components fitted? Fixing a 'problem' mistakenly is 'very bad business' - much like putting a band-aid directly on an untreated, infected wound Amp-> Tech -> Inspection -> Estimate ...Just Do It! 😉

Yes, but the first didn't have the daughterboards - i've just found a different one which shows the board you posted above. That circuit looks like the dropper resistor and start capacitor for the fan, along with fuse and connections to thermal breaker I don't think that board is involved in softstart protection What is your intention in using this information?

This looks like a 1.5k ohm 15W resistor and a relay - i haven't found a resistor of this spec in the Amp schematic ...will keep looking for a bit What is your intention in using this information?

"Desk"? - I see no desk! 😉

'Snubbing' components are pretty standard - arcing isn't! Does the OP Amp have existing snubbing components fitted? Is arcing actually happening? Who knows? Somebody on the end of a phone at Peavey certainly doesn't! If it is happening (and only reliable tech inspection can advise), then WHY is it happening? Have some existing protection components failed? Is there a separate underlying cause? Just fitting/replacing 'standard ' parts may mask a more serious underlying issue - if the power on/off 'popping' ISN'T caused by arcing, then what is the cause? Get the Amp inspected by a reliable Tech and get an estimate for the work ...just my €0.02

Sheesh! ...are Peavey suggesting that this Amp has arced inside the Mains switch, at power on/off, for its whole life?!? Is this regarded by them as a design feature?!? Don't think it would have lasted a year of regular gigging & rehearsals! Something else has failed, to cause any such arcing (if it exists) - needs a Tech (with more dedication than Peavey) to inspect and fix

You have the Right Stuff, Mr Willett - to paraphrase someone else: "The Dude will prevail !"

Sorry, my days of wrangling multitasking and pseudo-threaded software is long past, and my use of Arduinos very cursory - my brain only just recognises this as a frequently-met obstacle resulting in much up-rolling of sleeves and grim determination not to be outwitted by some upstart binary digit I would love to get stuck-in to debugging Arduino code ("Is that true, Kepple? - No Sir, it's not", Bernard and the Genie) I have total confidence in your ability to overcome this current and temporary setback - we are all rooting for you (...i say that in a totally non Unix context 😉)

Is the software system Interrupt-driven? If not, can it be enabled? ...just an idea

Hmmm - tricky - that's a TWO dog-walk problem to my fuzzy old brain! The way i see it, it's all about interlaced threads and the thread angle: if there's only 1 thread (helix), then the pitch is equivalent to the screw spacing; If there are 2 interlaced threads (like DNA) then the size of each thread (screw spacing) remains the same, but the threads have to be stretched to interlace and so the angle of the thread doubles - meaning that a 'nut' on the screw would travel twice the distance in one revolution Since you can get lead screws with 1, 2, 3, 4, etc interlaced threads your pitch becomes the screw spacing multiplied by the no. threads I guess the implication of using a multi-thread lead-screw is that you're losing some of the precision in your hard-earned stepper-motor spec (and presumably you need a nut with the same thread angle?)

Hardly, but thanks for kind words! ... don't forget that the Passive Treble will be non-operational (if Active is only track connected - and if you did connect the Passive track, then it would likely operate in the opposite sense to the Active - Max Treble at fully CCW) Good Luck!

To confirm Active track on existing Treble pot: before starting to change in new pots, disconnect the 3 wires from ONE track on the existing Treble pot - with Active switched on, does the Treble pot still work? If Yes, you need to use the 3 wires still connected, otherwise use the 3 wires just disconnected Connect the 3 wires to 1 track of the new pot - but keep heatshrink slid back from joint Test bass with new Treble pot - Max Treble should be fully clockwise turn to the control knob - if not, swap outer 2 lugs of that pot track When Treble operating in correct sense slide heatshrink into place & heat. Cover any exposed wire ends with some heatshrink

Ok, so you have a Blend pot in addition to the example schematic shown above - if that pot and the Vol are operating ok - and you're certain that you'll never use Passive setting - then you only need to source 2x 250k linear pots with centre detents (and suitable shafts): 1 for the Bass control, and the other for just the Active half of the Treble control If you can't find single-track pots with centre detents for a reasonable price in the UK (after checking with the sources found via Google, as indicated earlier), then you could still use one track of linear tandem blend pots - 1 half of first tandem pot for Bass, 1 half of 2nd tandem pot for Treble The earlier eB*y link 250k linear pot with centre detent shows that you could get 2x 250k linear tandem pots with centre detent for approx £12, incl P&P, dispatched within a day If you source the pots and want to wire them in yourself, you'll need to sort out the correct track/wire/lug config for the Active Treble - if you're unsure then a friendly BCer will be able to help Good luck, have fun!

Hmmm - from your latest question it sounds like your controls don't match the schematic above - It shows 3 control pot units: Vol, Bass & Treble (where Treble is a tandem pot, one track for Active and the other for Passive) Could you list how many separate pot position you have on your control plate (and mention any switches/selectors, too) please Which of these you've just listed have a centre detent? Thanks Yes, if you're just replacing potentiometers, and you've soldered before, you should be ok changing these out [Ignore this following para if you've used heatshrink before. Cut each length of heatshrink to be long enough the cover the solder joint and extend over the wire insulation by 1/4-1/2" (use the non-soldered part of the tip to shrink over the solder joint). The heatshrink obviously needs to be on the wire before soldering, and slide it an inch or two away from the joint being soldered, before sliding it back to shrink] Change out 1 pot at a time, noting wire-colour-to-lug-position - use just enough solder to get a slim, stable solder joint that the heatshrink can slide over easily If the control cavity is well-shielded, and connected to ground, you should avoid trying to solder ground connections to the potentiometer cases

That pot has at least 1 difference to the schematic/diagram - possibly two... firstly it has 2 concentric shafts and needs 2 'stacked' type control knobs - do you have suitably matching ones? Do you want a stacked control? secondly, this may be an Audio blend, not a Linear one - the schematic states Linear taper for the Active Treble half (and confusingly Audio taper for the Passive Treble half ...but i strongly suspect this is a typo! Active Tone controls are usually Linear, and i'm not aware that you can buy mixed taper types on a blend pot) If you're happy to have a stacked control, and can get suitable knobs for it, you could message the seller and ask which taper type it is - if it is definitely Linear then electrically it will do what is required HTH [Edit: this would be a closer match to the spec - 250k Linear Blend Pot ...assuming the shaft suits the existing control knob]

From the board/schematic, the pots are all 250K ohms, linear** taper with centre detent, apart from the Vol pot which is audio taper (no detent). The Tone pot is a double unit (mentioned above) eg. a 2 track, single-shaft blend pot. You'd need to remove the control knobs to check whether they require split or solid shafts (or can tighten onto either shaft type) (**The schematic shows the Passive Tone control as "Aud" but i suspect this is a typo! - a Vol blend control might be 2x Audio taper, 1 in reverse, but Tone controls are usually Linear) Google "guitar 250k linear potentiometer detent" and you'll see some likely sources - watch out for hidden Packing/Delivery/Minimum-order costs HTH [Edit: Oops - post crossed with Blue Moon ...i did refresh to check b4 posting!)

+1 re. @itu's comments about reducing heat trauma to pot tracks If hum still present after blend pot change might be worth checking under pickups that the ground/shielding connection(s) on neck pup match those on bridge pup for both wiring and good soldering - also - difficult to tell from photos above but make sure cavity-shielding encloses the whole volume, with good continuity from lower volume to cover plate(s) - and continuity to Jack shield lug too

Thank you i should really try to learn how to play the piano ...i know it won't happen - but a Moog? Now that would be both fun and cool ! 😉

Just checking, are the pickups both the same construction? Thanks

The PSU, in common with most small(ish) domestic adaptors, will be double-insulated for protection, not earthed - So the effective shielding of the pedalboard gear is entirely reliant on good earth continuity all through the pedal chain from Amp to Bass If hum is only noticeable in some locations (but with all basses), then you need to do some more checking at one of the locations/venues where hum is an issue If hum present with guitar direct to amp, try different amp - still hum? Suspect ground connection at location - no hum on 2nd amp, Suspect ground connection in 1st amp If hum present with pedal board powered up and all pedals switched to bypass - Suspect ground continuity on pedal board chain. Disconnect all in chain and add 1 pedal (and its patch) at a time - if hum follows pedal addition, remove pedal (and its patch) again. Add next in chain. Rinse & repeat Check jack sockets & plugs on any suspect pedal/patch links, for rust/corrosion/damage HTH