sandy_r

The 'wannabe Luthier' shouldn't talk the talk, if he can't quark the quark! 😉

Repurposed as a Dust Cap for the Input Jack? ...that's just plain mean!

PROBLEM: Person is upstairs, their (cell)phone is downstairs... Age 25: *starts project to mechanically diallout on phone from upstairs*; Age 50: *says "Dayyum", fetches phone from downstairs; Age 75: *says "...i wish i still had a phone..."*

Hej, Hornet! that's a cool skillset - kudos!

the clue is on the backplate: the manufacturer is stating that the effective operating power drawn by the amp (including the PSU) is typically 200W av. just before onset of clipping (ie. less than 200W will be output to the speaker) Whether this is a meaningful measure is another matter So, if your speaker rating is valid, then technically your setup is ok as long as you keep the max drive level in the clean output region (personally, i'd feel happier with a higher-rated speaker, to avoid ...Oops!) This is why you have to be careful using Drive/Fuzz effects, 'cause it can mask the fact that a speaker is being overdriven - and, in the case of the BH800, there's up to another 600W where that came from, just ready & waiting to to weld the speaker coil to the magnet pole As others have said, proceed with caution!

You're forgetting operating costs (providing food, clothing, accommodation, etc.) - and it's definitely not free to make the initial purchase ...allegedly!

Greetings from the East of the South West ...lurk no more Dood!

...dilithium crystals are fine - just need to polarise them all in t'same direction

The expensive solution involves slave-labour and someone either loved-up or idiotic enough to sit at your feet onstage waiting for you to call out "Green!", "Red!", or White!"" ...the cheap solution only requires some gaffer-tape and some spare space on your pickguard for the IR keyboard

...same as it ever was?

Amp response curves #1 Amp response curves #2

"assembled adapted and made good by me" ...ok - so let's see if i have this straight - 'made good' now means:- 'i lost one of the shiny control knobs, but 's ok cos i replaced it with a shonky plastic one from my windup torch radio'; ...and... 'i signed off this expertly-customised guitar by writing my 'Luthier business name' on the headstock in shaky felt-tip' Got it

Sounds like Dylan graduated from the Star Trek School of Engineering Pickup manufacturers build-in shielding, Audio Cable manufacturers likewise, Pedal and Amp makers too ...but that magic region between pickup and jack socket follows special Laws of Physics known only to Dylan and Scotty 😉 Shield & ground the control cavity - with continuity above and below - don't solder to pot cases (prolong their life and reduce probability of dry joints) "something is gonna end up touching something it shouldn't" is not a valid excuse to ignore something important - it just means people should engage eyes and brain, and think about how to achieve shielding AND insulation - rocket science it ain't (sorry Scotty, RIP) (FWIW pickups act like half a transformer - more sensitive to magnetic part of EM signals/ interference; control wiring is more sensitive to the Electric part of EMI, ie. ANY unshielded signal wire is an antenna to some frequencies - and the high impedances in the control wiring contribute to that sensitivity)

hi, if you haven't already contacted them, try the Avid Pro Audio Community (Eleven Rack Thread) Eleven Rack sub-forum

...if the broken piece can rotate at all then that end screw/hole is in slightly the wrong position - likely reason for the break is that end piece was under stress, and broke with a knock to the jack plug in place So mending the plate is only half the job - the end screw hole needs to be carefully refilled and a new hole drilled exactly where that plate hole has 'moved' in the fix (likely less than a mm) (just my €0.02)

yep, you can get ready-to-use modules for a small realistic-5W class D (PAM8610)), a flat preamp (LM386), and headphone amp (TDA2822) for less than a tenner total on *B*y. The alu case likely to be the most expensive part, ...£10-20 ish. ...and <£10? for 12V 500mA adaptor probably looking at a decent home/practice portable 5W amp, 6x4x2", modules, case, PSU and connectior/fittings around £30-40ish

....looks to me like they've missed off the Tone cap(s) on the (stacked) Tone control (in this diagram). Some diagrams have a single Tone pot and some dual. If using a single pot like yours then the cap needs to be connected from Gnd (case) to one of the end lugs (depending on which direction you want the control to turn forTreble cut)

...a 'black burst' could look cool on the front?

i've never named my basses, but a skinny-stringer i used to jam with in my student days named my DIY bass 'The Washboard' ...he claimed it was an affectionate naming, but i hae me doots! (OTOH, he also called my DIY bass-wah the 'Zoko-GeeWiz-CorLummy pedal', so i forgave him)

photo taken before i got the B2.1u

i've recently given away all my heavy heavy monster sound stuff and am now getting a minimalist mix'n'match of ultra light replacement gear i currently have a B2.1u as pre/DI - only mW from the phone o/p, so some amp certainly needed I have a 5W real (internal 5hr+ rechargeble) DIY amp into Fane 12" tube for ultra portability (good for home use and gigs with acoustic instruments (into Fishman/Roland battery portables) plus cajon - good portable bass sound going up a notch i have an FRFR-like Behringer MPA40BT (8" driver, bluetooth aux in, 2 mic/inst channels with B&Treb, 10W real for 5+ hours from internal rechargeable battery) - good for small acoustic-oriented gigs and band practice (2 guitars + eKit, soft rock) - great portable bass sound go for it !

random winding can help reduce self-capacitance in a coil, and depending on the capacitances involved that may or may not be sufficient to improve the high-frequency content in the output - not sure that it will make any significant difference to the mag field though - will probably mean that you get less turns per unit distance, because the turns don't sit together so compactly, resulting in a less-hot signal in general

Beller is a very entertaining guy! 😉

interesting concept about silver affecting tone i have a small reel of silver wire for jewellery repair and i've tried some in electrical circuits. Although silver is much less reactive than copper (hence silver being good for making contacts more corrosion-resistant), there is very little difference in conductivity, so sadly it's very unlikely that a silver coil pickup will sound any different to a copper coil pickup 😣 Each turn of wire needs to be insulated from the next - laquer-insulated copper is readily available (for winding coils!) but similarly-insulated** silver wire might be more difficult to find (and even more expensive) (** i think you can get some types of wire which are cotton insulated but the relative bulk of the cotton would be impractible for a pickup-sized coil - and auto-winding would be a nightmare!) not trying to dampen your enthusiasm here - this sounds like a great project! will follow with interest. don't worry about the user-interface for now, that can always be retro-fitted (and might need to change anyway, as you learn how the winder behaves) good luck with the project, have fun!

blimey - i think you've just (re)invented the CNC milling bed 😉 seriously, tho', couldn't you just adapt a small CNC m/c to achieve the required movements and control? (drive the bobbin as a 'drill', rotate and recipricate vertically to add layers, add small X or Y increments as layers increase in diameter?). I only use my CNC to make PCBs, so what do i know?!? Are you thinking of winding separate ('tubular') coil bobbins per string/pole? or 1 larger oval-type bobbin for a full (or half) width pickup coil Anyway, deep respect to you RW - for taking on not just 1 project here (the coding) but also the physical fabrication All the best - break a (transistor) leg!