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Mediocre Polymath

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  1. Yeah, I ended up downloading the technical drawings and working out how they work from that. The cost of these systems is a tough one. It feels excessive (I got my ABM tuners second-hand) but on the other hand the design of these things puts a lot more stress on individual components than conventional tuners. The entire force of the tensioned string is generally borne by the threading of a single bolt. It makes the quality of the metallurgy a much bigger deal. I ended up using the ABM tuners because I knew I would be designing the whole instrument around whatever bridge I chose. If I picked a design that failed after a year or two, and I couldn't source an exact, like-for-like, replacement, then that would be a lot of nice wood and 40-50 hours of my life down the drain.
  2. On my build I used ABM tuners, but I recently came across this company, Riviera Gear, which have headless bridge units with a really interesting design. The tuning thumbwheel is on the top, so you don't need to have them on the edge of the body or over a recess.
  3. I've made one and have been vaguely thinking about making another. I posted a build diary here, and I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.
  4. My local too. I remember back in the very early 2010s walking past there and seeing a mint Warwick custom shop Chrome-Tone five string thumb in the window. Generally I quite like cash converters as a place to get old and weird stuff. I like it specifically because it's all a bit ropey and shit. You can get bargains because it's really hard to search for anything and most things are labelled wrong. I have a Sony TA-1055 stereo hi-fi amp that I got as "guitar amplifier, silver" and a 1970s fancy swiss made Goldring turntable that was labelled "record player, Goldman". EDIT. Just noticed that I replied to a post that's older than my nephews. Still getting the hang of this site's ways
  5. I think that might work if it was a more sensibly design short scale, but Gibson EBs have big bodies and a huge headstock so sadly no. I think the Epiphone EB0 case is probably the best shout. It doesn't exist according to Epiphone's website, but Thomann apparently have them in stock.
  6. Yeah, it looks like Epiphone make an EB-3 case, but they're rare as hen's teeth and from what I can see online they're designed to fit the EB-3L as well, so they have about 15 cm of empty space above the headstock with a short scale EB-3.
  7. My dad's EB-3 recently developed a fault with its pickup selector, so he dropped it off with me to fix. That was easy enough (taking apart the rotary switch and bending some worn internal components back into shape) but while it's been in my house, I've had an opportunity to properly take a look at its case, and I've realised this is in an absolute state. My dad bought the EB3 secondhand in like 1975/76, and the shop threw in a cheap fibreboard case that he's been using ever since. It's got mojo for days, but it also has rusting hardware, completely dessicated padding, and angle brackets screwed into the corners to hold it together. I also suspect it was made for a Mustang bass or something more like that, as it doesn't support the neck at all. Does anyone make a short-scale case that would work with an instrument like this? It's a proper mid-1970s Gibson so the headstock is massive and quite steeply angled. Bonus picture of "The Count" in his velvet-lined case.
  8. Yeah, it's definitely a me problem. Well, me and other south east London bassists.
  9. This pedal sounds like it would be right up my street, soundwise, but the name throws me every time. I can think of few things less rockn'roll than a Waitrose-and-skiing-holidays middle-class enclave in South East London.
  10. The great Canadian luthier Ted Woodford does a lot of headstock break repairs, so his videos would be a good starting point if you want to see what the process of repairing a break like this involves. People with that level of skill don't come cheap, but doing it yourself would involve not just a lot of expensive tools but also the manufacture of a bunch of specialised, carefully measured jigs and guides.
  11. I can't even work out what happened to that Rock bass neck. Was it a crack that someone tried to widen out and fill with a plug or something? The g-clamp-pad shaped dents in the neck suggest someone (you?) has already tried to glue it and clamp it. I'm sorry to say that you only really get one shot at repairs like that. Once you've saturated the pores of the wood around a break with glue there's nothing for a subsequent glue-up to grab onto. If it isn't stable after the first attempt, it's not going to become so with the second. No unless you do some pretty drastic routing.
  12. Thanks. I've decided, having been making instruments for long enough to get good at it, that I need to go off and find something entirely new to be terrible at.
  13. So, I'm sticking this in here as a sort of footnote on an already much-too-long description, because it's worth explaining a little of the background behind those little string extender thingies you can see in the close up picture. When you're designing a new instrument, there's always something you forget to consider. With this one it was the overall length from the string anchor to the tuning peg. The overall length of this guitar's high-B, from anchor to anchor, is a whopping 990 mm. As it turns out, this is too long for most brands' guitar strings to work (at least with the non-locking tuners I designed it with originally). Ernie Ball strings generally have an overall length of 39 inches (990 mm), d'Addario always aim for "at least a metre", and Rotosound are about the same. Each of those brands have strings they market as being for "baritone guitars", but while these are much heavier gauge (too heavy, I'd argue for most common baritone tunings) they're not actually any longer than normal guitar strings. For the first few years I played this guitar, I used Jim Dunlop strings because for some reason, they're all 46 inches (1160 mm) long. They're not a brand you often see in physical shops though, so I added the little doodads to effectively move the anchor point forward far enough that I could use more easily-available strings. With locking tuners, you don't need anywhere near as much overage at the tuning peg, so I think you could probably take these off and still have a reasonable selection of brands. I also suspect longer strings will become more common now that all the metal boys are playing weird multi-scale things.
  14. Some of you may know that I make basses as a hobby. I also make guitars. Once, as an experiment, I made something in-between. That's right, we've got another baritone guitar on the marketplace. I made this in 2019 when I was experimenting with some ideas for my fretted bass. While it's an interesting thing, plays wonderfully and sounds great, I'm not really enough of a guitarist to need it much. It's just taking up space in the rack. I know "baritone" can mean a lot of different things, but in this case I would say that it's more a big guitar than a small bass (which is why I'm sticking it here, and not in the main marketplace). It's got a scale length of 710 mm (27.95 inches in old money), and is currently tuned B1-E2-A2-D3-F#3-B3 (like a regular guitar, but down a fourth) with a set of 56–11 d'Addario XLs. In terms of vital statistics, it weighs about 4.2 kg (9 lb 4 oz) per my bathroom scales – so heavy for a guitar, but pretty normal for a bass – and it has an overall length of 106.4 cm, which is about the same as a Fender Mustang bass (it lives in a Fender short-scale bass gig bag). The nut width is 43 mm, with the same string-to-string spacing as a stratocaster. The bridge is a tune-o-matic with the saddles filed to match the 9.5 in radius on the fingerboard. The neck profile was copied from my 1970s Ibanez Studio, and is broadly the same as a standard Fender. It measures about 22 mm thick at the first fret (measured with the strings on). The action is pretty low, about 1.2 mm at the 12th fret on the treble side, and 1.4 mm on the bass, with no buzzes, dead frets or rattles anywhere on the neck. It's got the standard two humbuckers (Stewart-MacDonald "Golden Age" PAFs) with a three-way switch, volume and tone, but it also has a coil-split switch that acts on both pickups. I tried various incarnations of active buffer circuits in the quite generously sized control cavity, trying to match the output of the single coils and humbuckers, but none of them sounded that great to my ears, so I've taken it out now. There's no gubbins and no battery in this. This would normally be the point at which I'd mention a few minor quirks and blemishes, and here I'm a little unsure what to say. This is a more-or-less wholly hand-made instrument, assembled on a workbench in the garden of a house in south London – it's been made with care and (if I say so myself) a reasonable amount of skill, but judged by the standards of a CNC'd or master-built instrument, it's mostly blemish. The big things would probably be the finish on the neck, which is slighly discoloured in places, some bumps and divots on the back of the body, and the neck pocket, which I made slightly too deep and then had to shim up with tapered strips of maple. As I mentioned, I have a gig bag for this, but no hard case (not even sure if you could get one that fits), so I'd really rather not attempt to ship it. I'd be happy for potential buyers to come by and give it a play (I've got a Fender Champ clone with a sealed 1x10 cab that does the low end well). (I'm including this to show the Spector-style curve on the body, which was a weight-saving thing).
  15. Nice work. I did a very similar project a year or two ago. I'd made a baritone guitar back in 2018 that played nicely but was insanely heavy (ash, man). Took the whole thing apart and completely reshaped the body to reduce the weight. I don't know about you, but I found taking a big set of rasps and gouges to an instrument I'd already decided was finished to be even more nerve-wracking than building one from scratch. It feels like you're going back to square one.
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