essexbasscat

Classic Gibson break that one

[b][size=6]BAPAM ![/size][/b] [size=6][size=4]Trouble with online advice is it may or may not apply to you. General guidance can be helpful, but advice specific to you will ALWAYS BE BETTER. [/size][/size] [size=6][size=4]For instance, the advice here to stand with a better posture would seem to be good on the face of it. Trouble is, if you try to improve your posture in the manner that many people use, it can replace one problem with another and be ineffective in postural correction over the long term. [/size][/size] [size=6][size=4]Best wishes for a pain free bass career OP (and everyone else on BC too ) [/size][/size]

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1352049448' post='1858161'] Agree that ICT500's are heavy. They put out 700w pr cab and have 210 and 210 woofers so that explains the weight. I would NEVER have traded them myself...and if they are still about, I'll buy them myself. You can put vox and keys and gtr through them with no bother and you'll never lose the vocal. Martin is quality. The ICT300 are the 210 version and I wouldn't expect them to do as much as the larger cabs... not surprisingly, but the quality will still be there. I am guessing that they would stack up against QSC Q12 tops very well..and the QSC stuff seems to be the fav stuff of the moment...but you HAVE to run them with subs, IMO, which is not the territory it sounds like you went t get into. No subs and they are just another decent top, IMO...for £2k in wooded cabs..not the composite ones..!! You can see the corners being shaved off here, IMO... RCF are pretty pokey small gig type units...and will cope with a full band in a pub quite well. JBL can sound quite good but I think their bombproof reputation of yesteryear is shattered, ...we sent back two horn diaphragms in a short space of time...and this doesn't seem to be unheard of, IME. EV has quite a few cabs out but the SX300 is entry level now. Will do a better job than most PV units you'll hear ..along with all the other non-names..but at least with PV, if you can live with the sound, they are VERY robust and reknown for it. For me, the quality of sound isn't there, but band for buck..??? Often, most of the top units need a controller, but for £400, if you can find decent ICT300 plus controller, or other Martin stuff, these are lights years ahead of the stuff I've mentioned here..IMO/IME. F12's are good as well, but not for the money you are looking at. HK...?? there is HK and HK, IMO... the lighter stuff is not so good, IMO..?? Seeing a pattern here..?? [/quote] I get the sense we're fundamentally on the same page here regarding quality. I would like to eventually have a good all - round rig that would cope with everything through it, but it'll take a little while to get there. For the moment I'd like to start out with a rig that's a cut above entry level and can be flexible enough to produce a good sound in a variety of situations, including a large hall now and again. Financial limitations are going to keep me away from the high end stuff just yet. There's also the weight, as there may be times when it'll be just me putting the thing together. It will also be just me taking it to and from the car at home ! it's sometimes not very easy to be quiet at 2AM carrying heavy gear up the stairs, especially when you're tuckered

Thanks guys I looked up the ICT500's - 78lb weight, a bit too much for me, but the review's were great. The ICT300 is more around the 30lb bracket which is probably about as good as it's going to get. They seem powerful enough for my beginner's rig, so may go with them. In fact, thinking about a decent rig at a reasonable price all round, as it's not too late to change things around. I'll open up another thread for that one. Thanks again.

[quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1351979945' post='1857609'] You did the right thing by being loyal to your old band and trying to get it on the right lines. Whatever you do now you can do with a clear conscience and your integrity intact. Good luck. [/quote] Well said

HI all contemplating which FOH speakers to buy for my first PA. Trying to avoid lifting heavy speakers up poles, so going for lighter passive speakers instead of heavier active FOH design (I've lifted EV active sx250's up poles and they are about as heavy as I'd really go. Lighter would be better, much better). Had a look around and like the look of the EV SX300 speakers so far. That said, I havn't had much experience of actually playing around with different PA's in a live situation. The Sx300's go for somewhere around the £400 mark secondhand. Can anyone suggest anything better for something like the same price ? I'd be willing to go a bit more if it would make a REAL difference Thanks all EBC

[url="http://youtu.be/WH6UnvSlahc"]http://youtu.be/WH6UnvSlahc[/url] Even with all the dodgy 12 string playing, it still rocks Eight miles high - The Byrds

I acted on behalf of a friend to buy something from Tom. However, my friend backed out at the last minute, leaving me in a spot. Tom was great about it, so he deserves some good feedback from me. Decent chap and a credit to BC

This problem appears to have several components. 1. To discover if it is ok to go on playing with the hand in it's current condition without significant risk of serious functional injury. If yes to playing, what to do for optimum healing and return to use. 2. If it is ok, how to play with the remaining three fingers until the idex finger comes back into use. 3. How to avoid re - traumatising the index finger while playing If you can arrange it, a visit to a BAPAM practitioner would be the first choice. If not, a visit to a GP wouldn't hurt, maybe with a further referral to physio if appropriate. Good luck with it

You are wise to consider your body while playing, after all, there's no shortage of threads around here started by people with carpal tunnel, locked shoulders etc. Our very own Endorka has written a blog on the very topic. If you wish to gain better alignment of the wrist, may I suggest you have your bass higher ? that would place your elbow at a lower location relative to the neck, which will allow your wrist to be straighter. Good luck with it whatever you do

Many Yamaha acoustic guitars I come across have the neck set at the wrong angle relative to the sound top, which always means bridge work to correct.

Noise is also conducted by the walls,so insulate them too if you're going that way.

Well done guys, I'll updated this thread if I pick up any more info. There must be more out there - the guitar world is swamped with books on repair and build information.

Zero 9 - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU For offering a book name ! Pete - thank you for chipping in ! Good to hear from you again

Is there really only one book ? is the knowledge secret of something ? anyone know of anything other than the Traeger book ? How do DB luthiers pass on / learn the trade ? is it like the masons ? Secret DB luthier handshake ?

Couple of features reminiscent of a German flatback i.e. tuners, sharp fold at the upper back. Looks like carved top too Tempting eh ?

Hi all I'm looking at doing some repairs on a double bass (I'll get some photos up when I can get hold of a decent camera) One book that keeps coming up is the Traeger's 'Set up and repair of the double bass for optimum sound', which costs around £55.00 for 375 pages (!) Does anyone know of any other books on double bass repair that are worth buying ? Or any other books on associated repair work ? (i.e. similar info that can be tranferred across from Cello repair) I've done some searching on Google, but not come up with much. Any advice appreciated folks Thanks all

I heard E Sharp's Eden WT 400 and it impressed the socks off me. A small adjustment in the tone bank goes a long way.

I've opened two threads on BC in the last two years on this very topic.

Just look on in wonder...

The money pit indeed ! (but not that often thankfully)