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Ive been after a bridge cover for my bison bass for some time. It needs to be semi circular in shape to resemble the original burns covers. Ive come across this vintage bridge on the bay... [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Guitar-Bridge-Spares-Parts-Chrome-VINTAGE-/220814778387?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3369962013"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Guitar-...=item3369962013[/url] and wondered how easy it would be to cut the string slots off to leave that side fully open and just use it as a bridge cover? Ive emailed the seller with my bridge measurements and asked him to measure the internals on this but was thinking if i could just cut the slots of and file down the remnants?

Bought some wizard pickups off Tim. Arived well packaged and lightening quick - just in time for my rebuild day. Pleasure to deal with and good comms throughout. Have no problem at all recommending fellow BCers. Top bloke! Cheers Tim!

P bass wiring also bought off John. Looks a quality bit of kit, really good components and soldering that puts me to shame. Very quick delivery too. Defo recommend. Cheers John!

Just bought some P Bass Trads off here. Couldnt decide between them and the thumpers but a good price coupled with a fair few reviews i opted for the trads. Cant wait to get them. Booked all day off tommorow to rebuild a Squier P bass (i say rebuild but really its a re-wire with one of Kiogons harnesses, adding the Trads, adding some old vintage looking tuners and thumb rest and finally a new decal. Might even do a build diary

Very sturdy cable bought off Dave. Arrived super lightening quick and is an excellent bit of kit. Amazing what a decent cable can do to your rig/sound. Cheers Dave

Bought some old tuners and a thumbrest off Pete. Arrived very fast and very well packaged. A pleasure to deal with. Cheers Pete.

Ive checked closely and it is down to the crappy camera. It is just the inside of the valves glowing and not the plates. The is a hole in the middle inside the valve that is why the top is glowing. It does seem to be purely the inside wire so im much happier now. Thanks for everyones help on this. Will be phoning the tech tommorow to get it booked in for a services and once over. I assume the two valves that i have switched places dont matter? Ive had it on standby for 30 mins since swappin and they all seem fine now

D'OH. Took the valves out, gave the amp a good clean aaannnnnndddd......only 5 now glow EDIT. I swapped the valves around to see if it was the valve or the socket......now all 6 glow again . Does it matter that 2 are no longer in their original position? Sorry for all the questions. I will learn/research valve amps i promise

Also, for cleaning purposes, can i just remove the power valves, clean inside then replace the tubes without having to re-bias etc (assuming i put each valve back in its original place?

A couple of 'idle' shots after being on stand by for 10-15 mins. It does sound absolutely fine with no major distortion (usual slight valve 'crank' but only when driven REALLY hard) Crappy camera so not sure how easy it is to tell if this is normal or not....

Thanks SD. Maybe im just being an over cautious valve newbie . So basically if it sounds right and the valves are all similar then its ok? Ill still get it booked in for a service soon, either David Pye in Preston or Dave Lunt in Manchester. Will try and get some pics tonight just to make sure

Cheers mate. The amp sounds brill but as its an old vintage effort there is no fan on it so its gets fairly hot (which is perfectly fine and understandable) its just the amount of glow that concerns me. Ive read it should be a few pin-prick like dots at the base of the valve that glows where as mine glow much more than that.

Im a valve newbie and have read a lot of conflicting stuff online about how much glow is normal from an EL34 valve. The main thing im concerned about is the so called 'Red Plating' where the valve glows where it shouldnt. I have 6 EL34's in my amp and they all seem to glow pretty full on. Not as bad as some of the pictures ive seen online but also ive seen some that glow less. I will try and get a picture tonight of the amp just on standby then after a bit of playing. In the meantime anybody have pictures of a 'healthy' EL34 at idle or after playing? I do want to book it in for a service soon and i know this will sort any biasing issues but i need to save up as i think its gonna be quite expensive. The cheapest ive seen 6 x EL34's was about £80 on the HotRox website

Cant find the thread now but someone posted (may have been quite a while ago) about buying just the extending 'loop' pieces on Levys letaher straps. Ive got one of the expensive tooled leather and buckle straps but need it to go a little longer. Ive emailed them to see if the sell the loop extension bit individually and in different sizes but had no response. Im sure someone on here had a similar issue and found somewhere that sell these. Anyone help?

For my Bison i always go for long scale because of the size of the head stock. Having never really re-stringing a squier P im wondering which option i should select on the status website? Also anyone else use these on a P?

Ive had a mooch round this forum and notice a few have 'pimped' up squier P's. Im useless when it comes to drilling and filling so really was after some advice regarding pups and the bridge. What are the nest bridges for standard Squire Affinity P basses? Im after once that will just fit on straight away without the need for any new holes/filling old holes etc. It appears a few have used Schaller 3D and Badass II. Do these both act as direct replacements for the old bridge? Pups - Seems SD quater pounders and Wizard Thumpers are the choice of the descerning BCer. Again, are these both direct replacements that require no mods? Cheers