Conan

[quote name='PawelG' timestamp='1497867499' post='3320908'] Full coverage from loss or damage for items over 1000GBP really makes things expensive. [/quote] Read the cover carefully too - as many appear to offer cover but actually don't. Funnily enough, they are still happy to take payment for this non-existent cover...

[quote name='richardjmorgan' timestamp='1497607457' post='3319425']On the subject of cabs – playing nicely with a variety of cabs is deffo something I'm after in an amp. [/quote] Pretty much any amp will "work" with pretty much any cab. It's more down to how you set your EQ and vol/gain ratios. Again, try some and you will soon get an idea of what you like (and what you don't!). Some amps seem very under-powered and quiet for their listed rating, others blow your head off (see earlier comments on Hartke LH500!). Some cabs need a lot of power to drive them, others are extremely sensitive (sound loud for not many amplifier watts). It can get very complicated, and few of us would recommend that you buy blind, using only the manufacturer's specs for guidance...

Just one thing to be aware of if you go for one of the tiny micro-heads with lots of controls, and you have sausage fingers like mine - is that the control knobs can be very close together! I found this a particular pain with the Gallien Krueger MB800 I owned for a while. They were so close together that I couldn't adjust one without the adjacent one(s) being knocked and moved. Very frustrating on stage... Some amps will have features that you don't need. That might not be a problem if you like their core tone. Others will lack something that you really want, but will do other things really well. I personally like a lot of control over the mid-range, but never deliberately overdrive my amp. The Hartke LH500 was massively powerful and had a great basic sound, but with limited mid range control, and my preference for J basses, the sound just didn't cut through as much as I would have liked... I wouldn't have known this unless I'd tried one! That's just two examples - I could provide a pretty long list of others!

[quote name='richardjmorgan' timestamp='1497529887' post='3318892'] Hi everyone. I've jumped back into playing bass seriously for the first time in a long while, and need to get myself amplified. Since I was last paying attention, it seems that small amps are rather the thing[/quote] I was in exactly the same position about eight years ago! Having spent most of the eighties and nineties using a huge Trace Elliott stack I found myself with only a practice amp and needing bigger gear to get gigging again. It seemed like an absolute minefield as things had certainly changed from the days when Carlsbro and H/H were everywhere, and the "serious" guys used Fender, Ampeg or Trace... To be honest, there has never been a better time to be a bass player. The amount of inexpensive (I won't use the word "cheap" as that implies low quality) gear is astounding, and you can kit yourself out, from scratch, with quality equipment for way less than a grand - in fact, for less that £500 if you are prepared to research and shop around. And that's buying new! Look at used gear and the possibilities are endless Using Basschat is a really good starting point, however do be aware of a couple of things: 1. Those with loudest and strongest opinions are not necessarily the most knowledgeable. 2. Most people will recommend what they themselves use. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but needs to be taken into account. 3. What sounds good in a shop, bedroom, house or practice room may not work so well in a gig situation. 4. There is no short-cut. Try as much gear as you can until you are satisfied* *Note, this almost never works, as you will never be satisfied as there will always be something else that you always wanted to try... The Basschat marketplace is a very good place to start. If you buy used gear, and find that it is not right for you, you can usually sell it on again without taking much (if any) of a financial hit.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1497519452' post='3318788'] You know what, I could do with a flightcase. What are the internal measurements? As in would it take a Jazz bass? IIRC putting an empty flightcaes onto Hermes is about £10. [/quote] I'll take some measurements (and pictures) when I get home this evening But my estimation is that it would accommodate a J bass no problem.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1497468556' post='3318504'] Would be a shame to throw it away - I'm sure somebody must want it. [/quote] I hope so! As it needs refoaming anyway, I guess it could be adapted to fit pretty much any bass - not just a headless Status.

[quote name='dyerseve' timestamp='1497472124' post='3318546'] PMd [/quote] And replied

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1497516952' post='3318745'] It's a flight case. It does not need a bin bag. It just needs an address label. [/quote] Exactly! This thing is built like a nuclear bunker, and as there will be no contents, damage during shipping is a non-issue If someone wants it and is not close enough to collect it, I will happily prepare it for collection by a courier. Obviously the courier would have to be organised (and paid for) by the recipient. I don't imagine it would be much more than about fifteen quid...

If nobody wants it, it will be going in a skip very soon!

[quote name='bassace' timestamp='1497423374' post='3317934'] Not quite Perfect. [/quote] I like what you did there

[quote name='PaulGibsonBass' timestamp='1496787303' post='3313905'] That's interesting to know, thanks, as I'm planning to upgrade a few things too. It's good to hear how you've modded yours. Did the bridge require additional drilling or did it fit ok? How have the tuners faired over the three years you've owned it? Mine look and feel cheap (obviously) but they were stable and held tuning accurately during Sarurday night's gig. I'm still impressed with mine, despite a couple of snobby comments. [/quote] Bridge was a direct replacement - no drilling required. Tuners are fine. OK, they are probably the weakest link in the chain now, but they do the job so I see no need to replace them. I always feel slightly amused, but also saddened by the "snobby" comments. For some people, if you don't play a Fender or Gibson they are out of their depth and feel that anything else must be inferior to their values and traditions. The kind of people who make those comments fail to realise that they reflect far more negatively on themselves than the people to whom they were aimed... Still - great basses for next to no cash. What's not to like?

[quote name='NancyJohnson' timestamp='1496941268' post='3314898'] Thunderbirds have been produced in three periods; vintage would best be applied to the 60s run (1963-69), the Bicentennial run (1976-79) and the current (or last) run (1987-2016). Bear in mind that the original Thunderbird pickups were units leftover from lapsteel production. The 70s pickups, I don't know, could be new or old...you wouldn't put it past a company like Gibson to uncover a box of old lapsteel pickups and produce a load of Bicentennial basses rather than throw them in a skip, but I just don't know. The last run dispensed with the chrome and went with plastic casings. The final production year saw the introduction of the EB series pickups. [/quote] Interesting! Cheers for that I've never owned a T-bird, but find myself increasingly drawn towards them recently...

The original tough (and heavy!) flightcase that came with my 1986 Series II. Requires re-foaming (which I believe can be done for around £50). Located in Newcastle upon Tyne (well, under the spare bed actually!) and I'm not prepared to ship it, so collection only please. Pics to follow if anyone is interested

[quote name='LITTLEWING' timestamp='1496953587' post='3314994'] Gotta put Elixirs up there. They might appear initially pricey, but as they stay sweet for bloody ages, you could buy 4 sets of uncoated at a total of around £80 a year... [/quote] Go for the Harley Benton strings and your £80 would buy you around 17 sets!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1494853527' post='3298996'] Not seen those before. The recent stock TBird pickups are much darker sounding than the old vintage ones, so replacing them is a popular mod; [/quote] Out of interest, what do you regard as "recent" and "vintage"? Was there a point where Gibson changed their pickup specs in the T-bird?

[quote name='radiophonic' timestamp='1496838672' post='3314190'] What's the difference between Nickels and SS? I've only ever used stainless. [/quote] I was always led to believe that nickels were less bright and zingy than SS. I thought that would be a problem as I like a lot of zing. Then I started buying the Harley Benton nickels and found the difference barely noticeable! Best advice is to give some a try and see how you like them

I love the idea of a house designed around music gear! That is just so cool!

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1496744105' post='3313537'] Of all the strings I've used over the years, the sets that sounded the best for the longest time were DR's, either Lo-Riders or Hi-Beams. [/quote] I would probably agree with this - although that longevity comes at a pretty high price. I've tried loads of brands over the years (Rotosound, Elites, Newtone, D'Addario, DR, Picato, Dean Markley, Lakland, LaBella, Warwick, Fender, Ernie Ball...), but now I use [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_valuestrings_bassguitar_medium.htm?ref=search_rslt_bass+strings_213107"]these[/url]. Cheap as chips, but they feel good, sound good and last pretty well. To be honest, at a fiver a set you can afford to change them after every gig if you choose to, but I find that they are easily rejuvenated after a soak in ethanol. In fact, they can stand up to this several times before they need to be binned. Well worth a try, although the shipping costs mean that unless you add them to a more expensive Thomann order, you pay a lot to get them here.

I've had mine (which is surf green) for three years now, and it is still my main bass! I had to replace the pickups, but only because one failed. Toneriders were cheap and sound good. The bridge was a bit "sharp" as I use quite a lot of pick and palm muting, so I swapped it for a Fender MIM P bass BBOT bridge (cost = £10). I got a friend of a friend to respray the headstock to match the body - another £15. Custom purple tort plate and a KiOgon wiring harness and we are good to go. It now feels like a bass that would cost £500+, and yet the whole project came to less than £200. To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement, and I have a one-off bass that always attracts positive comments You just can't go wrong at this price. I bought one for my son too...

I've owned three Geddy Lee J basses - two CIJ and one (my current one) MIM. They are all outstanding basses, with excellent build quality. I think the Japanese versions slightly shade it in terms of finish, but the Mex bass sounds better... Usually they can be had for around £500. IMO they are the best, and most consistent Fender J basses out there.

[quote name='JazzBass4624' timestamp='1496510513' post='3312011'] My wife encouraged me to order another 112 to complete the stack. [/quote] You are a very lucky man! :-)

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1495794168' post='3306628'] Does the swear checker really get triggered by sw***y? Edit - Blimey! It does! [/quote] What about Scunthorpe?

Cheers - will try!

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1495630312' post='3305427'] I run everything in the PA no matter the size of the room. [/quote] Most bands round our way only have quite modest PAs, and they would not be able to add much to the bass response - especially if the tops/"full-range" cabs are up on stands. Too much decoupling surely? As I understand it, wouldn't you at least need a decent sub woofer and/ or really good full-range cabs to make it worth putting any meaningful bass through the PA? Either that or EQ all the bass response out of the bass signal... Either way, it would seem to my (inexperienced) ear that it is only really worth putting bass through a decent (and therefore expensive!) PA? I may, of course, be wrong on any or all of this...

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1495538226' post='3304517'] My own experience of playing in originals bands over the last 8 years is that in almost every case* there is an in-house PA system with an engineer. The majority of these venues are no different in size to the average covers band pub gig but the PA supplied will always be adequate enough for the kick and snare drum (at a minimum) too be mic'd up and the bass to be DI'd. As I've said previously, several of the most recent gigs I have played, I have been asked to turn down my rig to such an extent, that I have relied on the wedge monitors in order for me (and the rest of the band) to be able to hear any bass guitar. In these instances the dispersion characteristics of the bass cabs have become completely irrelevant. [/quote] Clearly this is going to vary from region to region, and the type of gigs and venues involved. But there are lots of bands and bass players who would love your situation to apply to them too! That said, just because there is a house PA and soundman doesn't mean they will get a good sound... For those of us who play solely on backline, the dispersion of our bass cab(s) remains an important consideration.