David Morison

To be fair, the D112 is one of the less heavily contoured of the typical kick mics (only about 6dB before accounting for proximity effect), so better for other instruments than say, a Sennheiser e902 with over 20dB of shaping built in.

Fs, Qts and Vas are all higher in V3 vs V2, so in a given cab & tuning, there will be a more prominent upper bass hump and less low bass.

I mean, given we're talking about 90's era Trace, it's probably just a typo and they really meant 47 tonnes rather than kg, right?

Sorry, just realised it was the 1528 that dclaasen was asking about, that 47kg was for the 1524 from the previously linked ebay auction, my bad. FWIW, while the same catalogue does show the 1528, it doesn't include specs. The 1248, which was the same size as the 1528 but with 4x12's was 45kg for the version without an HF driver; I'd imagine the 2x15 would be a few kg less than that.

47kg according to the 1998-99 catalogue I have.

To Heat. You forgot the 2 most important words... 😉

You've more or less answered your own question - there are so many pedals that do drive/dirt precisely because lots of amps don't. Given that lots of styles of music work fine with clean sounding bass, it's logical that a big chunk of the amp market doesn't go there. Couple that with the fact that lots* of dirt/drive type sounds can relatively easily be created without designing & building a whole amp, it's logical too that that sector of the tonal spectrum finds more expression in pedals than amps. * Obviously, there will always be those purists that aren't happy with anything other than output valve distortion & even transformer saturation, so I don't think SVT's are going away any time soon, but even they are just a subset of the overall drive/dirt spectrum of preferences.

Hi again, Yup, your basic signal flow concept is fine. You're right too that the "extra" outs like headphones, control room etc on that desk just allow you to monitor the main mix (or any solo'd channel); the only other output that allows you to properly tailor what's being heard is the single Aux. As a worst case bodge, IF you A: never use the EFX and B: never adjust your main mix once it's set at soundcheck, you could theoretically use the EFX send as a second aux mix. Obviously the potential for frustration abounds if you ever did need to adjust the main mix during the set - whoever was getting the EFX derived Aux mix would find it tracking the changes to the main mix.

No worries, you're welcome. Running as you are isn't going to blow anything up, but you're not getting the best out of your system as-is for sure. At the moment, the Titans and the Peaveys are both getting fed the same signal, so they'll be overlapping each other. That usually doesn't sound as good as separating them so that only one type of speaker covers any given part of the audio spectrum. Putting in a crossover would take a load off the Titans by filtering out everything below a set frequency (lets assume 100Hz for the sake of the example), meaning they do less work and (if need be) could maybe be pushed a little louder. It would also ensure the Peaveys are only trying to reproduce content below that frequency, meaning they're less likely to contribute unwanted muddiness in the (low) mids.

Short answer, no, unfortunately it wouldn't work like that. Why - because the high pass filtering in the Peavey bins occurs after the signal has already been amplified, meaning you'd be passing a full power signal to the input of the Titans, which they very much won't like. The right way to do this is to run your signal from the desk to an active crossover, which splits it by frequency and gives you separate outputs to feed one set to the Titans and another set to the amp that's driving your Peaveys. The modern way of things (that gives you maximum control of what goes where) is to do it digitally - entry level units start around a hundred quid: Thomann Mini DSP. For similar money, you can get new, analogue units that offer less control, or if you really want to save the shekels you could look for second hand rack gear. Behringer, Peavey, dbx have all made relatively affordable crossovers that should be findable for 50-100 s/h with a bit of patience. HTH, D.

Fair point, for some reason I'd defaulted to assuming we all tend to leave cabs set up ready to use but obviously, not. Several of the Ashdown Rootmaster series of cabs are shallow enough - the 414, 210 & 112 are all 336mm deep, the 115 343mm, so would all fit. I haven't used them however, so can't comment on their tone.

Note that for most cabs, you'll need an extra few cm behind it to clear the speakon & cable, which usually sticks out straight backwards. That will reduce your useable cab depth to perhaps 30cm or so, which will really narrow down your options unfortunately. @Downunderwonder's suggestion of a curtain rather than a door is looking like a really good idea at this point, if you can persuade Mrs Grapefruit.

Cool, well for the time being I'd say leave it as is at least till you've had the chance to turn it up a bit. The Equal Loudness effect means that as you get louder your perception of bass improves, so even if the low end were to sound a bit light at livingroom volume it might still be viable for your rehearsal use-case, even without adding ports.

As Bill says, there is a gain to be had from porting, but it's modest - less than 3dB. By the way, how does it sound at the moment? Are you noticing it being particularly light in the bottom end at all? Also - how's the back panel & its latch and seal holding up? If you port the cab for more bass, you're also increasing the chance of extraneous noise if the hinges/latch don't hold it closed tightly enough. Anyway, as I am an inveterate WinISD tinkerer, Blue is sealed, Green vented with 2 of these: [url=50mm port]: That's theoretical however and there are a couple of caveats: 1; WinISD's port calculation assumes the backside of the port is at least one diameter away from any boundary such as the sides of the cabinet - you will be struggling to achieve that, so the ports may tune lower than predicted. If they were to tune as low as 40Hz rather then the theoretical 46.5Hz, the curve would look like the bold Green trace here - not much different in this case: 2; Vent Air Speed may be a problem. For best performance, the general rule of thumb is to aim for 17m/s or lower, though some sources do say that for non-hi-fi applications, up to twice that may be acceptable. At the ~33V your BAM200 can put out, the predicted airspeed is this (again, bold = 40Hz tune - in this case that actually plays in your favour): In practice, this is probably less of an issue than the modelling suggests, due to a couple of factors - first, we very rarely play with the amp flat out the whole time and allowing for dynamics in our playing, average power levels should be a lot less than max and second, those graphs assume full power at each frequency, which for an instrument like bass which is rich on harmonics, doesn't happen - our power is divided up over several frequencies for each and every note we play. So, overall, more work for marginal gain - if you're an inveterate tinkerer you may still want to do it but don't expect night & day differences from the current sealed condition. HTH, Good luck, D. Edit - link formatting

If elderly, or managing any health condition, please ignore the following. 1: Place amp beside your bed. 2: Every morning when you get up, stub your toe on said amp and curse yourself for being daft enough to take advice from strangers on the internet. 3: Wait, that's not supposed to happen - place the amp a bit further from your bed than that. 4: Every morning, when you get up, lift the amp to chest height. Once. 5: Carry on with the rest of your day. 6: Once step 4 becomes habitual, add another rep. 7: Once step 6 becomes habitual, add another rep. 8: Once step 7 becomes habitual, add another rep. 9: Once step - hang on, you see where this is going, right? ... .... ..... X: Once your significant other notices the effect on your physique enough that you're getting more nookie, come back here and laugh at the idea of getting rid of the piece of fitness equipment that occasionally doubles as an amp 😜 If you still want to reduce weight, the Yamaha DBR series are often mentioned as the minimum many pro sound people would recommend for sound quality - they're a little more expensive than the Alto TS but I'd be confident they'd sound better - that being said I've never used an Alto (and a DBR only extremely briefly) so take that with a grain of salt.