Ancient Mariner

You might be better off moving this to the 'for sale' section at the bottom of the forum. Just a friendly hint.

I'm pretty sure a number of Hondo II LPs didn't have dimarzios, and they were reserved for the better spec ones. AFAI recall anyway.

That's correct. The string wrap thing BRX refers to can be a problem if you like to dive bomb a lot, but it can also reduce string breakage. I've found that wrapping a couple of turns even with locking tuners reduces breakage because there is less stress at the right angle point where the string enters the tuner post. Not all strings suffer breakage, but DRs (my preference) do so very badly IF you loosen the string off & then re-tension it.

I have a GLX limiter pedal, and that worked well enough that I'd happily buy GLX again.

These are Beta Aivin pedals, rebadged, just like GLX and a couple of similar makes. WTFAccessories sell them along with the better known Beta Aivin pedals for about $30-$80 each

Yup, just like you described it. Be careful, because some lockers can have a pin that falls out and gets lost. Also some of them will trim the string flush as they are locked, so make sure you put it in from the correct side (IF they are that type).

Reminds me of a Tiesco body style. Probably not a winner then.

We use wireless mics at the church, with a mix of SM58s and Sure's cheaper *58 version. The cheaper version have a roll off of high end, are much less susceptible to feedback and are generally flattering to voices (I did sound for a guest singer, and she said that she'd never sounded so good and wanted to know what I'd done).

Just bought a Chorus pedal - great communication and very quick shipping. Thanks Ivan.

I've heard nothing either way, but it wouldn't surprise me that they were restricting access to stock to keep the price up. Time to sell my Elec Lady then. BTW It's not just Marcmart. WTFaccessories also have a 'full range' but no stock.

There are various units around that might cope, but Paul's suggested unit has a good rep and is probably going to be the most cost effective.

I have one, and it works really well - that's a generous donation.

I don't have a B9, but other processors I've owned HAD to be set up in a band context if they were to be used in a band context.

Have you told Cubase to use USB as the audio input source?

The THR isn't a 'practice amp' in the beginner sense at all, but is intended to be a professional 'third amp' (hence THR) after the stack and the small club-size combo. The speakers and modelling are designed to capture the feel and sound of playing through a large amp at stage volume, but at home levels, which is something small amps never really do. It will also work with a PC or Mac for recording through USB (audio is also captured both wet and dry for re-amping) and you can play back from an external audio source at high quality too. I'd love one, and may well sell of some stuff to enable acquisition within the next 12 months or so. Not everyone likes them, but if you record at home then they are a justifiable professional tool.

A classic vibe could be just as good, and you'd get a chance to play a few and pick the best.

It's a modelling amp, which will mean the sound quality and instrument-amplifier interaction will be different from an all-analogue system, even if the analogue is solid state. That's not necessarily a problem (and it seems to me that many 'bass players' like modelling gear) but it IS different. If I wanted something for purely low-volume personal practice then I think the THR would be better, but at a much higher price. If I wanted something that would let me lay a bit louder and behaved more like a conventional amp then the Pathfinder would be better. I know of a number of people who gig with a couple of pathfinders.

Worth is an interesting concept, but a lot of people will pay a lot of money for a MIJ Squier. *Personally* I find Japanese instruments to be the best available, and presently own 4 - my MIJ strat is still my number 1, but that's Fender badged, rather than Squier. In your position I'd want to play them both, then select the one I liked best. Also look out for the MIM Squier Strats, usually having Fender in solid black lettering in the usual place and a small round 'by Squier' decal on the round bit at the end of the headstock. They are apparently full US made bodies and necks that were shipped down to Mexico for assembly using cheap labour and low quality hardware. I have one of these too, and the hardware was indeed rubbish, but the instrument is light and plays really well now it has decent tuners, trem and pickups

Glad you like it. discreet - it's very hard to compare wattage against perceived volume between valve and solid state amps (and SS amps also usually have cheaper, less efficient speakers too). That 40 Marshall would probably comfortably keep up with a Line 6 HD150, and my 18watt clone is much louder than my Tech 21 Trademark 60 (a quality SS amp). But if the amp is mic'ed then sure it would be fine.

We call them valves in Narnia. Love the video, but the Tele tone from that esquire is a lot more righteous than most people would manage. But back to the OP. Strats, Jaguars, SGs and similar double cut guitars also often tend to have contoured bodies that make them more comfortable to play. Teles, Les Pauls and almost everything else has sharp edges and will lack body contours. Generally bolt-neck guitars will be lighter and set neck guitars heavier, but there are exceptions, especially where bodies are smaller/thinner, the manufacturer has removed wood to reduce weight, or, like Strats & Teles from the 70s, they've simply used really horrid and hugely dense lumps of wood for the bodies. Necks - Fender modern necks tend to be slimmer, vintage necks (50s especially) are normally chunky - the neck on my MIJ strat is a 60s style, and bigger than a Gibson slim taper. Strat necks have tended to be slimmer than Teles, and an early 50s style tele may have a U profile boat neck to rival any Gibson baseball bat. Gibson necks have a wide variety of profiles, just like Fender, but the 2 main styles are the slim taper (Also called the 60s neck, can be pretty skinny, now asymmetric) and the 50's style that is chunky. There are also specific shapes and sizes for 1960 (chunky) '59 (chunkier) and 58 (a real baseball bat requiring heroic hands). Generally SG style guitars seem to have skinnier necks than LP types. Bright and bassy etc. Traditionally the Les Paul is the last word in fat, sweet tones, the Strat produced chiming and sparkly tone and the Tele spiky, biting tones. TBH it's twaddle, and there are plenty of players and instruments that break these stereotypes. I have a Les Paul here that is as bright as a Tele and would suit chickin' pickin', while I also have a strat that is fat and huge and warm enough for jazz. A guitar with 2 humbuckers should be able to pull off big fat rock tones, but may not sound good in any other context. Strats and teles can sound thin, and sometimes just sound weak when you push them through overdrive. My advice - find an instrument that feels good and plays well in your hands, then start tweaking your rig to make it sound the way you want it. Amps make a huge difference to the way a guitar sounds too, and a great guitar through a lousy amp will never sound good. If you like the idea of a tele for rock, look up Greg Koch on youtube.

[quote name='fumps' timestamp='1357827803' post='1929086'] knowing my luck this one will be the Friday guitar built by the incompetent who forgot to put his nappy pants on & was in a rush to leave for the day. [/quote] That was their standard build quality. If the pickups have hex screws for pole pieces they're almost certainly Dimarzios, but as has been said, if they have a chrome cover then they're dustbin (well, ebay) fodder. There were a lot of guitars like this around when I was a teen: Kay, Satellite, Shaftesbury etc plywood bodies, bad hardware and all nasty. I had a columbus Les Paul, which was made with solid woods and a set neck, but still had an unbucker (the previous owner replaced the bridge unbucker with a super distortion) that wasn't exactly wonderful either. No reason you shouldn't mod and fettle, but turd-polishing and all that - it could just become a money-hole.