mazdah

You might want to try Sansamp VT. It will retain your Ampegs character, but it will add more grit into it. The tone tont be much different, I use my VT with pf350 or svp-pro and Im pretty satisfied.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1357469108' post='1922900'] Jeez the Boss pedal is an antique these days! I like a bit of retro and have an Atari 2600 with 100 games but seriously get a TC Polytune Thom [/quote] Just like P or J bass. Boss just does the job. And will be for another 20-30 years [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' timestamp='1358033052' post='1932264'] As for Boss tuners, just because they're the standard, it doesn't make them the best. On [url="http://www.bossus.com/gear/productdetails.php?ProductId=1046"]their own product page[/url] it says they're accurate to +/- 1 cent.the polytune (in single string mode) is accurate to +/- 0.5 cent. A brief look at the prices on google shows them at about the same, it's a no-brainer to go for the more accurate tuner that has a polyphonic mode and true bypass over the one that has no benefits IMO. [/quote] As for accuracy... incredibly well trained human ear is unable to hear less than 5 cents difference. Average human ear starts to hear that something may be wrong from 10 cents. No way you can tell if the bass is 0,5 or 1 or even 3 cents out of tune unless you have super powers

[quote name='BandGeekBarclay' timestamp='1365540785' post='2041008'] Hm, is a nice Squier of equivalent quality? I've heard some good things about Squier and while it'd be nice to have a Fender badge, if I can get a nice instrument that's also fairly inexpensive then I'd be happier [/quote] Squiers are very nice and well made, but I'd still go for a Fender. You always get what you pay for. No way you can get a "better fender for half of the price". You pay for the brand, OK, but the brand has to hold a certain level to be respected. Fender has the level, has the respect and has the quality and the sound. MiM Fenders are generaly superior to Squiers.(other than Japan Vintage series)

I recently sold my cab, but the 3pro is staying with me. I bought B200R from Jacob here, but I think I'm going to leave 3pro at home and eventualy buy SVT-410HLF back Maybe try a different amp, but without selling 3pro?

No worry to use 2pro / CL with 8ohm cab. I know it's not recommended, but I was at the festival where CL + SVT-410HE played for two days and nothing happened. Should be great with B-410HLF too!

[quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1325972132' post='1490652'] You would think so wouldn't you? But the bottom line is many people would rather have the F word on their headstock than have a better bass. I call them "Fendermentalists". [/quote] What do you mean by "better bass" ? And why do I need better bass? What for? Last rehearsal I played mostly on this: while my Fender stood near the amp, basically untouched (used only for songs where more than two strings were required). This old wreck did the job as good as my Fender, even better because I had rounds on my P-bass while I prefer flats - this old piece of junk had two 40 (or more) years old flats. Played like a butter. More or less in tune up to 5th-7th fret. I can play on this, I don't need Fodera EDIT: Fender is not expected to be innovative. They tried (Dimension Bass in mid 2000's, Jaguars, Mustangs and many more back then) and they failed. P and J basses are basically two of five basses that are still in use since 50's or 60's. The other are Gibson Thunderbird and EB and Rickenbacker. There are many other great basses out there. I prefer P and J by Fender, you don't have to. When you reach the optimal price tag, there are no "worse" and "better" basses.

The 4,5 XL has a little speaker instead of tweeter - I like it very much. 410XL doesn't have a tweeter. Both are very punchy and great sounding cabs!

Do you use -15db pad for active basses? Don't! You might want to try old "3pro trick" - master full and use gain to control volume. This amp should give PLENTY of volume, there must be something wrong, I think you should check the tubes or go to the technican...

And you did right! LaBellas are pure greatness!

[quote name='chipmunk_jr' post='1234504' date='May 17 2011, 05:20 PM']Ive played much nicer basses for a lot less money.[/quote] Well... I haven't

[quote name='headofire' post='1080698' date='Jan 7 2011, 03:38 AM']Im afraid thats not quite true. I've been using and selling ampeg for 14 years and the new ones are no comparison. Even Ampeg's rep agrees. the new VR is a very different and to the amp it claims to be. I sadly had to have my '74 SVT's transformer rewound recently and Peter hall (great repair man) in brighton had 3 new reissues sitting there when i picked mine up up. His exact words where 'the only thing thats the same is the box'.[/quote] Well, the VR and real vintage SVT are quite different, that's right. It's common for reissues, quite sadly they are never as good as the originals. But mine US-made 3pro has the same TAIWAN made transformer like it's asian brothers. Most of the parts did not change when they moved production to Asia. They had QC issues, the asian made amps are not that pretty like older brothers, but Asian VR WILL sound just like US VR (with the same set of tubes of course). And asian SVT-810E WILL sound punchier and clearer than US made from 2001-2005. I think they are doing great job. Loud saved Ampeg, they are finally doing something, new amps, new cabs, they are trying to restart the US factory. Now I'm waiting for a great comeback of V-4BH

[quote name='headofire' post='1079400' date='Jan 6 2011, 02:03 AM']dont get your hope up lads.... ampeg died about 2 years ago... new ones just break and dont sound like ampegs. its a sad sad affair.[/quote] Don't know about new models, but there's no difference between US-made and asian made heads. The asian cabs are big improvement over the us cabs from 2001-2005 which were made of mdf instead of ply.

Ok, thanks. I'll consider that option. But still I'm afraid to mod my pedal. I've found this diagram and instructions: "Yep, I've modded it for TBP and it works perfectly. Still have to add the LED/resistor in there but that'll be next. It's a very simple mod. It took me a while but keep in mind that I have almost zero knowledge of electronics. I'm sure there are other ways of going about it but here's what I did. Sorry if I'm using the wrong terms anywhere: 1. Removed the switch at the heel end on the board and put a wire between the two holes. There are four holes left but two do nothing. 2. Unsoldered the input and output jacks from the PCB 3. Replaced the jacks with ones like in my Fender Jazz. Wired the input to pole #2 on the 3PDT switch, output to #8. Grounded both jacks to the board too. 4. There are six holes left by the original jacks. I wired between each set of two but I not sure if you need to. There were a few components on the board that would get left out if you don't. 5. Wired from pole #1 to either of the holes closest in on the board on the input side. 6. Wired from pole #7 to either of the holes closest in on the board on the output side. That should work I busted the hole on the output side when I was removing the original jack so I had to solder the ire from pole #7 directly to the last component in the circuit. I'll get pics up soon hopefully. Sorry for the bad explanation. I anyone needs anything else explained I'll do my best. Peace, and good luck to anyone giving it a shot! Joe" But there were some complaints - some people wrote that there's no sound coming through, some complained that the sound is coming through, but unaffected (without wah-wah)

And which one is suitable for 105Q ? I think my friend could help me with this mod, but I need scheme that WILL work for sure...

I love the sound of my Dunlop - so much mid range growl and funky sounds coming out from this toy, but I have a major problem with bypass - it takes a lot of my punch and clarity in bypass mode. It's not noticable on roundwound strings, but I prefer flats and I like to have a big thump which is impossible with Dunlop in signal chain. I can have a G-lab BWW-1 Wowee-Wah for my Dunlop, but I don't know how does it sound. On youtube videos the G-Labs sound is very trebly and quite thin, but it has a lot of switches and filters so maybe it's just a matter of tweaking. And it has a greater bypass. What do you think?

[quote name='blackmn90' post='1034639' date='Nov 24 2010, 01:38 AM']I disagree with you as the idea of an amplifier is to make the sound louder, but obviously a 15inch speeker is different to a 12 and a 10 inch. BUT, i watched the video in your sig, and thats a really great sound. Whats the bands name?[/quote] Well, not for me. I've spent a lot of time looking for an amp, cab and even cables suitable to me. Every part of my setup is a huge part of my sound, even the cables - Klotz Funkmasters. They DO sound different than others, especially with flats (I'm La Bella 760FL addict;) As for Fenders... well. A '62 P-bass was good enough for Jamerson so it's way more than good enough for me. I just like the fell of wider neck, whole ergonomy, punch and fat sound of passive Precision. I'm aware that my bass is overpriced (tonewise) but I payed for the sound, feel and visual look that makes me feel good everytime I have bass in my hands. Leo was a Genius. Precision, Jazz Bass, Stingray, G&Ls' are all milestones for bass players and bass builders from all over the world.

Jap 75 is an amazing bass but it can't mach with US Vintage '75 which is The Ultimate Jazz Bass (along with the US Vintage '62) But it's not only because of the pickups. The neck, the feel, the vibe, the sound.. totally different world, dude. However, I'd say it's more for a fans / maniacs / worshippers and collectors - if you treat your bass just as a tool, the Jap 75 should be just great and you won't be satisfied with the money spent on US Vintage '75.

3Leaf Audio Groove Regulator - 6 Adrenalinn II - 1 Aguilar Agro - 1 Aguilar Octamizer - 1 Akai Unibass - 2 AMT Slap Bass -1 Ashdown Chorus - 1 Ashdown Drive Plus - 2 Asdown dual band compressor - 2 Ashdown sub octave plus - 1 Barge Concepts VFB-2 - 2 Behringer BDI21 - 3 Behringer chorus - 1 Boomstick Bottom Feeder - 1 Boss BF-3 - 1 Boss CE-2 - 3 Boss CEB3 - 1 Boss CS-3 - 1 Boss DD-20 - 3 Boss DS-1 - 2 Boss LS-2 - 8 Boss ME-50B - 1 Boss ME-8B - 1 Boss MT-2 - 1 [b]Boss OC-2 - 12[/b] Boss OC-3 - 1 Boss ODB-3 - 7 Boss PH-1r - 1 Boss PS-3 - 1 Boss PW-10 - 1 Boss SD-1 - 1 Boss SL-20 -2 Boss SYB 3 - 2 Boss TU2 - 12 Boss TU3 - 1 Boss TU-12H - 2 Boss chorus ensemble CE-5 - 2 Bugbrand Bugcrusher - 1 Catalinbread SFT (clone) - 2 Catalinbread Teaser Stallion - 1 Chunk Systems Octavius Squeezer - 1 Danelectro French Toast - 2 Danelectro Reel Echo - 1 Demeter Opto Comp - 3 Devi Ever Hyperion - 1 Devi Ever Cherry Pop - 1 Devi Ever SodaMeiser - 1 Digitech Bad Monkey - 2 Digitech Bass Synth Wah - 1 Digitech Whammy - 5 DOD FX-25 B - 1 [b]Dunlop Bass Cry Baby - 4[/b] DHA VT2 - 3 EBS Octabass - 3 EBS Multicomp - 4 EBS Dynaverb - 1 EBS Unichorus - 1 EHX Memory Man with Hazarai - 1 EHX Bass Balls - 1 EHX Bass Big Muff - 5 EHX Bass Metaphors - 2 EHX Bass Micro Synth - 4 EHX Big Muff Pi (Black Russian) - 3 EHX Big Muff Pi (Green Russian) - 1 EHX HOG - 1 EHX Octave Multiplexer - 2 EHX POG2 - 1 EHX Small Clone - 1 EHX Small Stone Nano - 3 EHX Small Stone (Black Russian) - 1 EHX Qtron - 1 EHX Qtron+ - 3 Exar PigNose - 1 Ernie Ball VP-Jr - 1 Fishman Platinum Pro EQ -1 FuzzHugger ABsynth - 1 Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet - 1 Guyatone MD-3 delay - 1 Guyatone PS-3 Phase Shifter - 1 HBE Psilocybe -1 Ibanez PD7 Phat-Hed Bass Overdrive - 2 Ibanez SB 7 - 1 Ibanez WD7 Weeping Demon - 1 Korg DT-10 - 2 Korg Pitchblack - 4 Line 6 M9 - 2 Line 6 Bass Pod XT Live - 1 Line 6 DL4 - 3 Line6 FM4 - 1 Maestro Brassmaster (clone) -1 MarkBass Compressore - 1 MarkBass Super Synth - 1 Marshall Guv'nor (MK1) - 1 Marshall Jackhammer - 2 Marshall Echohead - 1 Marshall Regenerator - 1 Maxon CP9+ - 1 Mellowtone Clean Chan Dirty Chan - 1 Mojo Hand Cream Pie - 1 Moog MF-101 - 3 Moog MF-102 - 1 Moog MF-105b - 1 Moog MF-107 - 2 Moog MP-201 - 1 Mr Zinky Master Blaster - 1 MXR Bass Octave Deluxe - 1 MXR Blowtorch - 4 MXR El Grande Bass Fuzz -1 MXR M-80 DI+ - 6 MXR M-143 Limiter MXR Super Comp - 1 Peterson StroboStomp 1 - 1 ProCo Tubro Rat - 2 Radial Bassbone - 1 Radial bishot io - 1 Robot Factory Meatwad - 1 Rocktron Cyborg Reverb - 1 Sansamp Bddi - 8 SansAmp Para-driver - 1 Seymour Duncan Tweak Fuzz - 1 SFX Micro Fuzz - 1 SFX S&M - 1 Subdecay Noise Box - 1 TC Electronics PolyTune - 2 TC Electronics Nova Modulator - 1 Tech 21 VT Bass - 3 Tech 21 VT Bass Deluxe - 3 Toadworks Mr Squishy - 1 Way huge swollen pickle - 1 Xotic X-Blender - 1 [b]Xotic Bass BB Preamp - 1[/b] Yamaha OD-10 - 1 Z.Vex Box of Rock - 1 (clone) Z.Vex Woolly Mammoth - 5 (clone) Z.Vex Mastotron - 1 Z.Vex Wah Probe - 1

Well it's all about that "pretty close" thing. My 3pro is even closer to CL than VT + Markbass, but it's all about these 10% difference between 3pro and CL...

If you are used to a high and high-mid heavy sound, there might be a drop in a volume, because flats are all about fundamental - low end and high mids. Nothing to worry tho.

It is impossible to damage the neck just by putting all strings off and putting new ones on. I rarely put my flats off, but sometimes I clean the fretboard (rarely) or use rounds for recordings, no problems so far and I don't bother changing them one by one.