RichardH

Looking at the spec of the PR300 and PR320, the PR300 appears to be a touch more efficient (at 99dB rather than 97dB). I am assuming that the extra XMAX of the PR320 more than compensates for this difference - and I suspect that the measurement of efficiency is not such a clear cut thing as a single number suggests...

Wot he sed.

Stevie, I have copies of the PDFs if you don't? Though I assume it's more a matter of how to upload them to the thread rather than access to the PDFs....

The active extension cab's a neat idea.

The only problem with the bushings is that they have an internal diameter of 6.3mm, so may well not be right for the pots you have installed. The micro knobs have a diamater of 7.7mm, which would probably mean a drill bit of 21/64". I also found these https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-slim-metal-potentiometer-knob-10mm-diameter-x-10mm-t18 10mm diameter, 10mm height - there is also a taller one - but the turned aluminium finish would have great "grip" for bonding to.

I got some RCF 310As a little while back, and they are fantastic. You just missed out on a great deal on them - Andertons had them at £278 just after the new year - now back to £328.

Here's a bit of a crazy idea re home made knobs. It seems really hard to find bushings to insert with an internal spline to use with standard pots - I believe the spec is T18 - or T24 for the fine splined knobs that I think CTS use (just to be awkward). However I did find these https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/ ...though these are splined on the outside (and not the inside) to fit into a hole, and have a set screw - so you could use these on smooth shaft pots with the flat on the side. They may well work on normal splined shafts as well given the set screw would lock on to the shaft OK. Then I saw they also sell these "micro knobs" https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/micro-knobs/ ... which are set up to go on a T18 splined shaft. So in theory you could drill a hole the outer dimension of the knob and then glue the whole knob into the wooden outer casing. A couple of strokes of the hacksaw to score the knob to give the glue something to really grip into and it should be pretty solid. That doersn't help with the fine splined T24 style pots though. R

Here's a little video of a chap making knobs using a drill press. He finishes them on a lathe, but as he says in the video, you could do it just as easily on the drill press. I would love to be able to source metal inserts to go into the knob to make them a "safer" fit on the spline, but Noick of a hardwood knob pushed onto a splined pot shaft sounds like a good next best option.

Are you going medium scale? I suspect on a telecaster guitar body the balance will be a little interesting with a 34" scale.... hope I am proved wrong, as I love the telecaster shape.

Here we go. The lip at the back is sized so the feet butt up against it, so the rear panel is left completely unimpeded. The corner blobs are some spare bits of Sugru I had lying about, used as feet - not necessary really though. I originally built this when I was using a single 1x12, but have still found it handy with the Genz 2x12 cab. Made from an offcut of cheapo 12mm ply.

Must admit I don't tend to use the footswitch much, though I am glad to have it. I usually switch settings between songs, and it is a cinch to use the mute button on the amp itself if you want to tune between songs (if you didn't know, although the tuner is constantly available, when you mute it goes into a more accurate mode). As for the surround overhang, if you are taller then it might be a small issue. I got round it by making a foldable angled amp stand from a bit of ply painted in tuffcab paint. It's got a lip on the rear endge to support the amp, and it folds up and goes in the amp bag with the amp, footswitch and cables. I'll dig out a pic later if there's any interest...

Ha ha - you put a lot more eloquently than me, Alec. And yes, it's nice to turn up to a gig and know how to drive each other's gear

I have never had a problem with my RH450 knobs falling off, nor with it not being loud enough into a Genz NEOX212. I have toyed with the idea of trying other heads, but the RH450 with the footswitch is so darned convenient a package.

What about one of the Fearful 15/6 that are up for sale. May be a bit above budget though... and on reflection, possibly a bit bigger than you're looking for. As you were....

I have an Eminence Acoustinator NH2008 (a neodymium magnet, hemp coned, long excursion rubber surrounded beasty) that's doing nothing if you're interested - £25 plus shipping? Mods - please remove if not appropriate to offer this in the thread.

Yes, they say ash is one of the best woods for burning...

Looking spiffing!

This [url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Transmitter-TaoTronics-Portable-Wireless/dp/B00Q2EGQQU]Bluetooth transmitter[/url] might do the trick - then you can use any practice amp you like....

Very nice indeed!

Crossover build continued.... Started placing the parts. I am using the Everbuild Heatmate silicon throughout. I used a bead of silicone plus two small stainless self tappers to hold the connector block in place Underneath Gunging up the resistors ...all in place after the silicone has gone off Testing time The completed crossovers Bottoms up! A few top tips. 1 - Apply the silicone to the parts, put them in position with the leads pushed through the holes and then LEAVE it until the silicone has gone off. Don't start trying to bend/route/connect the wires as everything will start slipping around. 2 - You'll see that I initially put two tiewraps in place over the large inductor. This was not stable enough, so I had to add a third. Definitely plan for at least three tiewraps on the big inductors. I did not use silicone to hold the inductors down, though (as it would make a HUGE mess if you wanted to remove them!) 3 - Sometimes you will find that you can't dress the component leads to reach the place they need to go. Always make sure where leads have to join that you don't jus trely on a blob of solder - hook the leads round each other before you solder to ensure a solid and long lasting joint. 4 - Take your time and follow the signal path carefully. Double and triple check. 5 - Testing - I used Audacity to create some test tones, and had the crossover connected between my desktop amp and my (full range 2 way) speakers. I was therefore able to check that the LF crossover was rolling off the treble (you'll hear it dropping once you get above 2500Hz or so), and the HF crossover was rolling it off the LF signal below around 2000Hz. 6 - I used 4mm (maybe 3mm) ply. This means that fixing the connector block needed a bad underneath to give the screws enough bite. So you may want to use something a bit chunkier to avoid that hassle. The standoffs idea seems to be a good one though, and should make fixing the crossovers to the cab easier. & - The carboard template trial was really helpful, too. So - there we go - one pair of crossovers!

Just weighed the crossovers I'm building. 246g for the LF, and 139g for the HF.

Got all the components from [url="https://www.hificollective.co.uk/"]Hifi Collective[/url]. They don't hold the inductors in stock, so I assume the lead time is to allow them to make up an order from the supplier to get them in. The only other place I found that has a wide range of inductors is [url="http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/"]Loudspeaker Freaks[/url] - AKA Europe Audio in The Netherlands. Some say they are slow to supply (though I have used them in the past and they have been fairly good). Component price for a set of crossovers for the cab (using the 407 tweeter) came to around £22.

I was going to ask about doing the crossover on one piece - I thought seperate might be easier to locate within the cab - especially as this is for Geoff's MiBass cab rather than the BC cab, so I don't know what clear space there is inside. I would reserve judgement on mine being neater until I have finished!! Waiting for some suitable silicone to be delivered at the moment....

[quote name='lurkingbass' timestamp='1501078342' post='3342310'] Thanks everyone for help, after all your suggestions and help, I am closest to idea of [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Clarett 2Pre + active monitors.[/font][/color][/quote] Like I said earlier in the thread, I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (albeit into a power amp and passive speakers), which is one of the "entry level" units Dood referred to when suggesting the Clarett. At £129 rather than the £420 for the Clarett the money saved could get you a decent pair of active monitors. For what you want it for, the 2i2 may be all you need: [url="http://blog.reddogmusic.co.uk/2015/07/03/whats-the-difference-between-the-focusrite-scarlett-and-clarett-interfaces/"]What’s the difference between the Focusrite Scarlett and Clarett interfaces?[/url] EDIT: my 2i2 is a 1st generation one, and does just fine. You could pick up a [url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREE-SHIPPING-Scarlett-2i2-1st-Gen-Grade-A-Refurb-/122569448144]refurbed one for £75[/url] if you wanted to dip your toe in the water before spending big.