RichardH

Am wondering whether to make the cutout for the horn a square so I could rotate it at some point if I fancied it.... IIRC the screw holes are positioned in a square on the horn anyway, so the cutout just needs to be slightly bigger to allow rotation....

Uh-oh....

Main reason for wanting a pair is so they stack to a nice height so I can reach my pint.

Some more progress... Surround to back the handle cutout Braces going in - plus surround for the rear connector plate. For the "sub" cab, we are going to swap the top and bottom panels so the handle is nearest the 12" driver, and also flip the baffle so that when stacked the ports will be vertically above each other - just a visual thing. It does mean that if I choose to convert the cab to a fully tweeter-ed version at some stage, they will end up being mirrored versions of each other.

I've mentioned it before I'm sure, but I've found a blunt handsaw (panel saw) to be much better at cutting drainpipe etc than a lovely sharp one. So for those without bandsaws, that's the way to go!

A bit more progress on the evil twins... Cutting the ports to length - overkill with the saw? Nah..... We're using some odd bits of hardware that Mike still had left over, so these will have a rectangular handle ...and a metal connector dish

Hot hair drier works if it is a plastic based "cloth" - not sure what that stuff's made of, so safest to test on an offcut first! And be warned... although a hot air gun can also be used, be very careful not to get too close with it - don't ask me how I know....

Very nice!

Don't worry Stevie, we can check ourselves. So long as there's no design issues with having the handle at the bottom then we can give it a go. Obviously the relevant damping will be fitted to the panels which ever way they go up.

I'm sure there will be clearance, I wasn't sure if it would have an effect on the wadding. Sounds like that shouldn't be an issue though - thanks for the reassurance!

One thing that may or may not be worth taking off to a separate thread until sorted. The "sub" cab will need to be set upside down so the two 12" drivers are as close as possible. This makes the handle positioning a bit interesting. I had thought to just build the cab as designed with the handle on top, but add feet to that top surface so it could be plonked down upside down. A bit of a bodge maybe, but I wasn't sure if having a handle impinging on the wadding down by the 12" driver was a bad idea, so thought it best to keep things as standard...

Roughed out with jigsaw, then spindle sanded to the correct diameter. This just shows what gear is needed to do a good job - it makes the flatpacks a no brainer!!!

Sounds like my build could be a good guinea pig for this, Stevie...

Bit more progress on the cab build.... Rough cut for the baffle holes Making the port hole the right size... ...yup, it fits One baffle done... ...which is then used as the template for finishing the second. ...and there we go I am still intending to run the second one without tweeter, but since I have two horns I thought I might as well have the baffle cut for them, and then seal the horn instead of fitting the compression driver. If I then want to run them as separate cabs or for keys or something, it will "simply" be a matter of another driver and crossover. I bought the horns ages ago (as well as the two drivers) - I suspect if I'd held fire and read the comments from people who have them up and running, I might have just gone for one cab, but hey ho!

Yup, got to be tan!

Sorry, my browser somehow managed to re-post my previous post from a couple of days ago - please remove!

Wow - that's cheap!

Especially for that budget, you're looking secondhand I suspect - so if you could go to 2U there would be more options.

I wouldn't say responsible - I took what had already been done and adjusted/amended to suit - I'm just the monkey - never the organ grinder! I knew there was a good reason I took up bass rather than keyboards...

I bet these cabs would be a great basis for a Helix + power amp setup either with guitar or (of course) bass. In other news, my cab building journey has finally begun - although in a slightly disjointed way. I had managed to buy some poplar ply from Mike Walsh (Zoot bass) - who has stopped building the Purple Chili cabs to allow him to focus on building basses. He had a sheet or so of poplar ply left over, and sold me the ply with the basic cuts done for me. I moved house this year and have now (finally) got a lovely shed (albeit without lights and power yet) - but other priorities keep getting in the way (redecorating, rebuilding etc) that for some inexplicable reason according to other members of the household (ahem) should take precedence. Anyway, Mike has taken pity on me, and has offered to put the cabs together for me. I should stress that he is doing this as a favour to me - he is NOT going to make any of these cabs commercially, and doesn't have much left in the way of the poplar ply anyway. Stevie's flatpack kits are a much more sensible way to go! Mike has some odds and ends of hardware left as well, so there may be a couple of cosmetic differences (connector plate, different feet etc), but the important stuff (port, drivers, wadding etc) will be to Stevie's spec. The ply is going to be 12mm in the main (as that is what he had left), though with the baffle done in 15mm. I'd originally intended to do it in 12mm but with a 12mm baltic birch baffle, but since there was a bit of 15mm poplar available, then that will be used. Of course this also means that the dimensions of the panels will need slight adjustments. I had always intended to build a pair of cabs, but one is going to be without tweeter. Stevie has recommended that when used together, the tweeterless cab should have a low pass added at around 500Hz, so there is little or no interference between the two boxes. We'll see what happens there when we get further along the road.

Superb!

I wonder if that is because you could hear yourself better on stage, whereas normally you would have to be louder, hence your FOH sound was relatively quieter to previous exploits.

Our guitarist has recommended Michael Still in lancing. Apparently very good and all the studios in Brighton use him,as does BIMM.

Well hello there! I'm just outside Ringmer! Can't be any tech help, but thought I'd just say hello to a local