ARGH

IF it dont say USA made Fender, it ISNT a P-Bass.

[quote name='BigBeefChief' post='312247' date='Oct 22 2008, 04:11 PM']anyone???[/quote] Christian music,that DOSENT have a happy clapper vibe Trouble...A Doom metal band from Chicago,been going since 84 Count Raven...Swedish,in same genre of the above...depending whos written the song. The Black Peppercorns (Kinda Christian R.E.M...so that could be hell on the ears) King X,VERY VERY VERY Good Rock Band,kinda the flagship for 12 string Hamer Bass users everywhere....very very musical trio,without walking into the Prog Genre Mortification...Surprisingly..DEATH Metal....(No I dont know how that works either) USA Believer,Thrash.....

[quote name='blamelouis' post='312361' date='Oct 22 2008, 06:33 PM']If it's too good to be true it is ! Buy cheap buy twice ! [/quote] Damn right...Cheap is ONE thing and one thing only....CHEAP!

Yeah but the outside security is awful,Ive had mirrors smashed off my car,stuff go walkies...windows put through.

Its Owned by the guy that owns Music ground...(and Half of Denmark st)...in Leeds..Ive played it..the 'Sid' Bass...its a bit f***ed....And dosent work..I dont think you can get a sound out of it,I picked it up,under watchful eyes about 6-7 years ago... Its a P-Bass thats mashed up,but its not THEE Sid Bass (Black/White)...But why would you want to have or be proud of an instrument thats be owned by someone that COULD NOT and did NOT Play on the records of the band he was part of.

[quote name='Stickman' post='310733' date='Oct 20 2008, 07:49 PM']Would be nice to have a bit of space but no backline is needed, we'll be bringing everything. Drums will be the only 'live' instrument anyway as we're using an in-ears setup (a desk and small PA would be a bonus - just to check the mix - but not a necessity). Would want to block book two days so whoever would be the most cost effective for that. Haha, it's where the tour manager is based.[/quote] BIG MARTIN!!! Theres a small rehearsal place with a MASSIVE room just up the road,Or I could ask a few mates..how soon do you need to know?

Theres 3 or 4 to choose from...in a 10 mile radius..and 2 secret,hush hush ones. How many members are in the room? Coz theres cupboards,and rooms,lockups I can get hold of,and a few studio places that offer really nice quiet,no hassle,environments. Howden Clough,Dewsbury,Leeds,Castleford,Wakefield,even Hudds is a stones throw from Birstall on the motorway.

[quote name='Stickman' post='310717' date='Oct 20 2008, 07:29 PM']Can anyone recommend me any rehearsal studios in or around Leeds please? The closer to Birstall the better. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, no backline required, just need to be able to book it out for two days mid November.[/quote] Whats your requirements,you want decent Backline...amps...general space....size..or what..cost per session or hour...I know several. What the hell you doing in Birstall? Who you playing for?

[quote name='BigBeefChief' post='309582' date='Oct 18 2008, 11:44 PM']Is that weird?? Why would you get dressed? I haven't left me flat today hence I haven't even put a pair of pants on! If people come round, I'd put some boxers on, but thats it. Yes, I am naked as I type this.[/quote] So you have the same theory as me,less clothes,less washing,more nudity,more fun... Its great when JW's call innit.....Its my house,I can strip if I want...Its why I wear a Kilt,it f***s peoples head up,plus its comfy warm,and generally better for my sperm count than ruddy jeans (I hate driving in Jeans...nads clinging to your thighs..ugh!

Jim Fleeting will make a P/U to order

First off,sorry Ive got heated again...I think 'Passionate' is the nice term. Being pragmatic the two points are thus. Me:- If you want to hear how scale affects tone,play A 440 on a Bosendorfer,then play the same on a pub Joanna,the difference is obvious,its not illogical,its audible,its clearer..a low B on a 36" sounds better than a 34" (yep there are others that will disagree,but Ive 34"scale low B's and 35" B's..and Ive been lucky to have played 36" B's..and I think,and I hear,they sound better,clearer,tighter,leaner*) Alex:- Its made of wood ..HOW could it not influence the tone. Given that...I agree..Yep I agree,but its not to the extent that some people manically believe,ok..wood,on fretless ,I concede will play a marginally higher influence in a notes sound (Keys players call it envelope) ,given as its (the string) vibrating against wood...But I still dont think that in a fretted instruments case its possible to tell the difference between fretboard woods,because the strings are touching the same (or near as damn it same) alloy frets.. I dont think if I played a Fender P that had a Maple..a Walnut...a Wenge Neck..fingerboard..whatever into a recording,you could,or nearly anyone could tell the difference between one or the other. Bodywoods ,the same...after its plugged in its the electronics and the scale,you are hearing,I dont think..I dont know,someone did an experiment. How many Jap/Mex/Yank cheapo bass's have you heard that sound/feel awesome unplugged and the electronics have choked them,sh*tty 2 bnd eqs,crappy pots,bad jacks,...why the hell do they,clearly,sound better with an electronic upgrade...Ive an example upstairs now,thats the opposite,its a horrible build,bought cheap for parts,but came with a top whack EMG P/U with matching 18v 3 bnd eq,it sounds like a RAZOR,gnarly buzzy fretless yum...Ive sold instruments 5-6 times its ebay price,because I wont trade,its the mutts..but,back on my point, its the electronics that are governing here....not the woods,good wood is good yes? But its good on the eyes,if we were looking for ultimate wood,we would probably found the 'right' combo by now,as some luthiers,think they have,but I dont hear that,and I think a lot of it is influence of fashion (my point on tops earlier) and aesthetics (saying that Dr Daves Rotten topped Shuker looks,sounds and feels devine)..the thruneck/Bolt on argument is testament to this..Ernie Ball's militantly TIGHT as f*** bolt on neck pocket (that in some cases a slip of paper cant fit through) Vs ..I think..Sadowsky's or maybe Mike Lull's opinion of the opposite. So whats worth changing the wood or the P/U's..sh*t P/U's kill the sound,changing the wood,wont stop that..will it?? My stand on scale...is near impossible to prove,but heres my spin... I wonder what those muddy EB series Gibsons with a short scale,would have sounded a shitload better if being a longer 34" scale..like the Thunderbird. Ive played many 4s and many 5s,and I can say regardless of the cost my cheapo Yammie and custom 9 with 35" scale have far far better,tighter,cleaner E strings (both use the same guages and if not string brand) than My Fender/Ibanez 4s...plugged in. Skip (I think thats his name)from Knuckle guitars makes mad long scale instruments,30-40 odd inch scales and they sound,and Ive not heard one complaint,f***ing awesome... I would stand by the science of scale affecting tone to a far far far greater extent than simple wood choice,because its based in pure fact,the piano example above..the 36" scale bass vs the 34" vs the 30.5" short scale,I trust my ears,and apart from the 'Its a bit weird' feeling when jumping 1 inch upward in scale the sound difference,to me,is,or feels,obvious. if you really want an acoustic example try a full scale Upright at 40+ inches..then try a smaller scale... Im sorry If you dont agree,Im sorry If Ive got flamey,Ive had a bad week,and its no excuse,I base my opinions on fact and a few Luthiers with a LOOONG age of experience,my ears,what ive experienced (same reason I dislike GK rigs). SO are we all agreed I am right,and you cant prove different? * to requote the illogically linked Mr Thompson 'What IS a ****** sound?

Alex you once wrote something along the lines of "AN instrument has to sound good acoustic before it sounds good electronically"..which is pish...we are not ..I repeat NOT playing acoustic instruments,we play Electronic instruments...all the wood in the world dosent change a P/U and eq's influence which is greater than the wood...and then the scales length which over-rides the whole thing,because it influences the instrument itself.. All the acoustic properties dont mean sh*t,when its plugged in.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='306737' date='Oct 14 2008, 10:35 PM']Is this your opinion or something you are asserting as a truth? How does this tie in to whats been discussed already?[/quote] Its a paraphrase..I think its from a Venn tutor.... Theres an awful lot of sh*te written on here about wood and tone and nuts and tone and body shape and tone. I think a little more fact as opinion rather than opinion as fact,should be exercised on here (Now thats MY opinon).Taste is one thing,just being plain wrong is something else,and peddling it as fact,before experience..alot of this is influenced by fashion,currantly theres a lot of Spalts and Burls on custom instruments,few years back it was quilts and flames...like the never ending Throughneck to Bolt on fashions. But they dont effect tone..not as much as scale..scale always effects tone..longer shorter..whichever..woods cannot for that compensate that. Woods matter in regards to acoustics but once you plug in,you pretty much remove that.

[quote name='markytbass' post='306725' date='Oct 14 2008, 10:25 PM']I had a 100w stingray head looked more retro than the one pictured but had the little push buttons including the red "fart" button. Was it labelled deep or bass boost I can't remember but cos I had it going through an 16ohm 18 inch speaker it sounded like a fart[/quote] I WANT TO SEE THE RED FART BUTTON.... Every amp should have one...G-K's is thankfully called 'Power Off'

[quote name='steve-soar' post='306697' date='Oct 14 2008, 09:49 PM']So, what you are saying is that you have never altered the action on any of the basses you have owned? As for different types of wood making no difference in the tone of basses, and if that is the case, any instrument made of wood, I have never heard anything so ostrich-like in my life! So, I don't like the action after a few days, I then have to take the time to go to Jims to have it tweeked, say if I live 200 miles away?[/quote] If I dont change the brand/guage on an instrument,and Im happy..then no,I adjust an instrument when I get it,to what I like,but that not a straight,"Ive never...",but Ive had far more trouble with production instruments rather than custom,made for me instruments...save once on the 9 (it has a wooden bridge) over time Im finding I was wrong..and I will get it lowered,plus an afternoon with a friend,and a Bassmakers palace isnt really a chore is it?! Ostrich like.... [url="http://www.ctbasses.com/"]http://www.ctbasses.com/[/url] click on articles,interview with Carl Thompson....Its not gospel,but I think he has far far far more experience building instruments than you and I combined. Jim I think would sort a delivery service regarding if you had a prob with any instrument he makes..seeing as people buy from custom makers from different continents,usually the USA,I think its without saying there would be a guarantee (Email him) if there was any trouble. Jim has many many satisfied customers.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='306683' date='Oct 14 2008, 09:35 PM']I've had a 35" scale graphite necked instrument and the scale made a slight difference, but not a lot compared to my 34" scale instruments. In fact probably less than the difference between a maple and a wenge neck. Oh and don't get me started on the differences in sound between graphite necks. I think noone's in a position to argue a strong case for any one particular element being dominant in an instrument, anymore than anyone could argue the case for pizza dough being the dominant flavouring in a 12" family sized advocado and feta. At the end of the day we could all argue for one element being important than the others until the cows come home. If any one individual argues for an element at the exclusion of all others, then they're going to end up out on a limb at the end of the day. Even if it is in their experience then lets compare experience. FWIW In my experience, a bass guitar is the sum of all its elements be it scale length, neck material, pickups, preamp, neck joint, wood density, fingerboard stiffness, blah blah. Any polarised argument in favour of one element would deny the manner in which all the other elements interact with one another.[/quote] But you cant argue with Physics...length is good for Low end. Bassmaking ISNT a science,nor is it alchemy..... BACK ON TOPIC...heres the specs Maple Knobs (They mellow the tone) 2 bnd Kent Armstrong eq Mahogany/Ebony Knife-edge Bridge Spalted Maple top The headstock:- Ebony/Spalted Maple cap Ebony nut Spalted Maple trussrod cover Schaller Machine heads Mahogany Walnut wings Sycamore Mahogany thruneck Ebony Fingerboard (fretless lined) Spalted Maple top (so good I mentioned it twice)

[quote name='ped' post='306664' date='Oct 14 2008, 09:23 PM']I have had two identical basses, one alder and one ash, and there was a marked difference. You are correct though, it is a small factor with all things considered but I think people who say it makes NO difference are as incorrect as those who think it makes ALL the difference. Nuts? pah... Gimme a zero fret any day ;0) Cheers ped[/quote] Its visual perception......like Maple/Rosewood fingerboards..People cant hear the difference. If I played you a Maple P-Bass and an Alder equivilent..both painted black.....blindfolded you,you wouldnt be able to tell the difference,but If I played one (either) and it was a 36" scale you would tell the difference straight off.

[quote name='ped' post='306598' date='Oct 14 2008, 08:14 PM']People intonate for a reason, don't they? like I said, weather it makes an audible difference is not my argument - but you might as well get off to a good start, eh? Oh and whilst we are in disagreement I DO hold SOME stock in the 'x wood sounds like this' argument, though it is just a part of a larger picture which depends on the sum of the parts.[/quote] But its crap Ped,scale affects tone more than anything......ok yeah.. change the material radically from wood to say..metal or a carbon composite or concrete the instrument will resonate in a completely different fashion..but regardless of the material factor..be it Maple,Plastic,pigiron,whatever,stick 2" on the scale from bridge to nut and it WILL sound different to a far far greater extent acoustically than whatever else you do regardless...its maths,pure maths..Physics The only other factors in sound from the instruments POV is/are P/U's (Physics)..and strings (more Physics).....after that its the individual plucking the instrument,his choice of cable amp head etc.

Watch out theres a Scammer selling a stick on gumtree Says in the ad hes fromLondon/Essex Ilford,but dosent send pics and says he lives in Kirkaldy ..ORKNEYS!!!

[quote name='ped' post='306529' date='Oct 14 2008, 07:07 PM']With Sibob again. I don't think my post could have been less confrontational if I tried, so I don't know why you are getting so pent up! With regards to the intonation on my fretless if I capo the 12th fret the strings are all intonated properly, and I suspect with a wooden bridge this would be more difficult. Weather this is noticeable to a player/listener was not my argument. ped[/quote] No Ped it just means its intonated at one single point,the 12th fret,not the entire fingerboard,its one of those fables that really gets my goat...along with 'X' type of wood on a fingerboard or body makes [i]this[/i] tone ....its bullshit,there is no such thing as total true intonation,because if you had a complete and perfect in tune instrument,you wouldnt be able to play with anyone,because they would always never be able to be tune with you.

I LOVED a 30w Laney combo they had in College,it really gave me the Craig Adams Goth sound I so yearned for in the 90s. Overdrive the pregain and ram in my old thruneck P-Bass copy and I was in heaven.

The answer is tone,regarding bridge choice.....I asked Jim and his reply was "Its what he (The Customer) wanted" Lets not get into the idiotic discussion of the level I had on sevenstring.org a year ago...re: wooden bridges,they play in tune are easy to live with and work perfectly well. So you have a perfectly intonated fretless Ped?? Is that possible? Seeing as the fretting hand IS the intonation...thus bringing into question a players technique..I highly doubt your claim to be true,which then brings the question of what is perfect intonation,the answer being practically an impossibility in the western scale of a fretted neck and in the fretless players case the ears and hands. The 'lines' are guides..but as you know one little movement..the rolling of the fingertip and all the setting up and intonating in the world aint gonna help you out there..if we were really hardcore we wouldnt have dots on the side either (ala Jeff Ament) would we? On the question on adjusting the action upon the instrument? WHY?? WTF would you want to adjust the action after purchase?..you try it out when Jim finishes it,and if you dont like it its changed in the shop there and then,if you get a shift a week or two later,or its not to your taste then its easy enough to do,via a qualified Luthier...I dont know anyone on here that radically changes string guages week in week out,nor travels vast distances between timezones and climates,and if you were to get a big neck shift its why Trussrods are in existance...Of course any changes upon a Jim Fleeting are subject to a free setup at a 6 month interval (might be 12 months as well email Jim for information). If you can afford to change strings every week,and need diffent guages upon one instrument,I have the feeling you might be in enough money to own more than one instrument.

Of course its in tune...you use your left hand and ears to judge your playing. Isnt the idea of fretless to be alike in attributes of both the upright with the Electric Bass? You dont see cellists,Violinists,Uprights etc asking for individual string saddles upon their instruments? That would be absurd,an adjustable bridge for fretted..yes its needed,but on fretless?? Set it to the 12thfret harmonic to correspond with the fretted note..and the rest is for your ears to do. I thought you would know that.

WHY would you need saddle arrangement on a fretless?

[quote name='steve-soar' post='304423' date='Oct 11 2008, 03:28 PM']Couple of things, the tuners look to be too close to the sides of the headstock and too small, I would imagine tuning to be awkward and there seems to be little or no contouring on the body. One more, would intonation be a bit of a hit and miss affair with the saddle arrangement?[/quote] Seeing as its fretless?...The saddle arrangment isnt a problem. The tuners are due to the photos perspective..they are clear an as easy to use,as are ALL of Jim creations. The customer wanted the 'feel' of a classic bodied bass..50s style ..so Jim went slabish..at the customers request .The Bass is the closest Jim comes to a simple Mahogany/Maple wooded instrument.