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therealting

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by therealting

  1. I would argue that life is too short to play your dream bass with the strings that don’t match the sound in your head. If you want the round wound sound, play it with round wound strings!
  2. You have to try them with a band rather than solo, then they really make sense.
  3. Please someone just buy this already. I don’t need the temptation.
  4. I’ve been through a bit of a journey with Precisions over the past few years. Started with a Japanese thin-lacquer 60s one that I liked so much I started looking at higher end ones. I now have two pre-CBS Ps (a 61 and a 64), and a Dingwall Super P5 for my low-B needs. The Japanese one was astonishing value. I would happily get one of those again.
  5. The wear may have appeared there from a time when the bass was stored or shipped with slacked-off strings perhaps? Under low tension, the string is more likely to be able to make contact with the fretboard from a fret height.
  6. I love the Sadowsky preamp, enough that I have it in three basses and have the preamp/DI on my board. I replaced the J-Retro in my Dingwall Super J with the Sadowsky and it is just perfect now. As others have said, only minimal amounts of adjustment are needed. I’m about to experiment with trying the Noble DI in place of the Sadowsky pedal...
  7. I have seen that one, just a little narrow for me! I have a Conklin 8-string with 14mm spacing which is nice for chords and chord melody, but way too tight for normal playing. I’m think an RBX JM or similar. The Ibanezes are nice but necks are too thin for me.
  8. There aren’t many affordable options for 32/33” six strings. I tried the Steve Lawson signature Elrick which is around £4k, it was the most comfortable 6 I’ve played, but I can’t swing £4k for a sixer that would only get occasional use. There was an S Martyn on here for £2k. I’m thinking of getting a narrow-spacing 6er and sticking a capo on it; and then maybe thinking about making it permanent if it works out. I have lots of pretty fine instruments which I and those who hire me think I play pretty well. I’d hope I’m not an idiot, I’m just trying to be sensible with my money.
  9. 1. Gives you a few lower notes which can be particularly handy when playing more modern music, music with Ebs etc, and doubling synth lines. 2. Gives you a bigger range without shifting positions, handy when reading for example. 3. I find fewer dead spots than on 4-string necks.
  10. Just to add this is perfectly fine and common for multi-piece necks which have a very thin finish as Dingwalls do. The wood shrinking / growth happens with other multi-piece necks happens too, just less noticeable with thicker finishes. My Super J5 has this, and Sheldon Dingwall explained this to me when we met up and I showed it to him.
  11. My 61 has the Bareknuckle 65, my 64 has the NP4. The NP4 is smoother, I like it for that old-school vibe. As everyone else has said, the Bareknuckle has more bite.
  12. I definitely don’t need this as I have a very similar Sadowsky Metro with Nordstrands, but this is virtually the same bass at half the money. Silly value!!
  13. That’s the idea I have in mind, just more permanent.
  14. Thanks for the tip! Still debating whether to get a push-pull series/parallel switch installed. Perhaps have it as conventional P with knob down, and single coil with knob up.
  15. @The Guitar Weasel - Jonathan at Feline has been telling me about you! Have you tried a take on the classic P split coil in a 51 form factor?
  16. Now THIS is interesting! I have a Jess Loureiro split coil waiting to go in my Bravewood ‘56, but this would be a bit different.
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