Just to add this is perfectly fine and common for multi-piece necks which have a very thin finish as Dingwalls do. The wood shrinking / growth happens with other multi-piece necks happens too, just less noticeable with thicker finishes. My Super J5 has this, and Sheldon Dingwall explained this to me when we met up and I showed it to him.
My 61 has the Bareknuckle 65, my 64 has the NP4. The NP4 is smoother, I like it for that old-school vibe. As everyone else has said, the Bareknuckle has more bite.
I definitely don’t need this as I have a very similar Sadowsky Metro with Nordstrands, but this is virtually the same bass at half the money. Silly value!!
Thanks for the tip! Still debating whether to get a push-pull series/parallel switch installed. Perhaps have it as conventional P with knob down, and single coil with knob up.
Has anyone taken a 35” scale bass and converted it to 33” scale by moving the nut to the first fret (or similar)? Just calculated that the first fret is 1.964” from the nut on 35” scale...
I do not need a 4-string Super.
I do not need a 4-string Super.
I do not need a 4-string Super.
I do not need a 4-string Super.
I do not need a 4-string Super.
But so handy if you’re caught out, and means that you never have to put up with an action that you’re not absolutely happy with. Mind you, I find the neck on mine very stable anyway.
I had a strip of LEDs on my old TRB6 when I was doing lots of pit gigs, and my custom Conklin 8 string in the classifieds has them too. I also have Luminlay on my Sadowsky and both of my Dingwalls. Very handy when lighting conditions aren’t ideal!