Johnny Wishbone

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1501147070' post='3342778'] rather than a clean blend it'd be good to have a lo-pass blend, so keep everything up to like 200Hz clean and then wah above that. Otherwise the bass can really drop out [/quote] I'm pretty sure the 105Q does that, although I'm not sure at what frequency.

105Q is as close as I've found to perfect (for me), in that it's auto-switching and has controls for adjusting the Q and volume boost. Negatives are the crap buffered bypass (I'm not a true-bypass purist but the Dunlop buffer is a tone killer), the fact that there is a pre-set effect delay (which you can of course turn off with the internal trimmer, but why have it in the first place?!?!?) and the sheer weight of the chassis. Robust build quality is an obvious must, but surely it doesn't have to weigh as much as that? For me, the controls on the outside is both a plus and minus - makes it easier and less fiddly to set up and fine-tune, but they can get knocked easily if not protected in a flight case or similar. On balance, having them on the inside is probably [i]slightly[/i] better. Built-in fuzz would be a no from me, but a small footprint would be a definite advantage - I'd never buy a Morley as they take up way too much room with the massive baseplate.

I look like this, only in real life I have a full head of hair.

[quote name='TrevorR' timestamp='1500310934' post='3336861'] I don't know about Wal sales but it's certainly had a huge impact on the number of "How can I get the Tool tone without buying a Wal?" internet forum threads! [/quote] Haha that's certainly not in doubt!

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1500304812' post='3336795'] Can't say he had too much influence on me buying a Wal having only found out who he was a couple of months ago... [/quote] I don't mean for [i]everyone[/i], obviously. I would however suggest that their profile and sales have been significantly affected by the proliferation of Tool fanboys over the last 20 years.

It always seemed to me that the "Justin Chancellor Factor" had a massive effect on the prices, but that may have just been coincidence with the timing of the brand relaunch and his emergence as a bass demi-god.

50-67-90-120 on the Warwicks (C#, Ab, C#, F#) 70-85-105-135 on the Jaguar (Bb, Eb, Ab, C#) In my long forgotten days of standard tuning I used to use 45-65-85-105.

I think I just did a little wee.

Yep, COG Tarkin would be worth a look. I've owned/built a lot of fuzzes and the Tarkin slays them all. Saying that, if you're just after "grit" then maybe fuzz isn't what you should be looking at?

Wiring specs for all Warwick basses (including pot values/types) are here: [url="http://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick---Support.html#current_site_id"]http://www.warwickba...current_site_id[/url] Looks like they're both linear (B100K - part no. M85100).

I've never been able to find Warwick pots anywhere other than Thomann or from Warwick themselves. Obviously I realise neither of these are in the UK!

Guys, I've hit a brick wall in my search for wiring guidance on a bypass looper that I (foolishly, it appears) believed would be straightforward. Hopefully the collective wisdom of some experienced builders might be able to assist. I'm wanting to build the following: a passive bypass looper with two loops in series, that has two footswitches. One footswitch selects loop A OR loop B, whilst the other selects both loops together (A+B ). Bright Onion sells such a device, but (a) it also has a master bypass, which i don't require, and (b ) I could build it myself for considerably less outlay. With the exception of the aforementioned, I only seem to be able to find diagrams that do either A/B looping with master bypass, or just 2 series loops each with their own bypass. I dont really want to have to do the old "sideways foot operating 2 switches at once" dance, and what I want is obviously possible as it's been done. Can anyone devise a method for wiring what I'm trying to achieve?

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1499763830' post='3333369'] Thanks for the tip (ahem) - I'm concerned about the SMT J201s and their susceptibility to static...did you earth yourself up ? [/quote] No, the only precaution I took was to leave them in their sealed pack until I was ready to tackle them. I still managed to drop one on the carpet all the same!

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1499713699' post='3333114'] That's good to hear - I've just ordered a Guma Vintage kit myself and the teeny-tiny transistors were making me worried ! [/quote] I got my kit in October and have only just braved it! They are tiny but with a magnifier, pair of tweezers and pointed soldering bit it was a 2 minute job! The hints in the instructions are very helpful.

If you go for the Woolly Mammoth, be sure to warn the neighbours first!

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1499709222' post='3333069'] Thanks for the info, The only thing in front of it would be a compressor. Would that give any issues do you think? Any other recommendations for a fuzz 'for beginner/ intermediate' to play with as a first build? [/quote] Depends on the compressor! Anything true bypass should be OK, although if you play an active bass then you may still have issues with the WM as the active circuit is buffered. For an easy-ish fuzz build with plenty of scope for tweaking it's difficult to look past the good old Big Muff. It's a 'boring' choice I suppose, but there are several slightly different versions and so many tried and tested mods it's pretty much impossible to not find something you'll enjoy. Fuzz circuits are generally simple builds, work well with bass and are very tweakable so there's absolutely loads of options. For a beginner I would recommend having a look at the "bass friendly" section of http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/ for a few ideas, especially as these kits come with a proper PCB rather than using veroboard. There's nothing wrong with vero, and it opens you up to a million other options, but a proper PCB makes for an easier build until you get the hang of it. All that said, good luck with whatever you decide and, as always, YMMV.

I've had a lot of "bits" from Bitsbox and can certainly recommend them. Never had one of their kits, but at that price you're laughing (it's laughably cheap as it's on veroboard rather than a proper PCB, but that shouldn't cause you any issues other than it being a bit more of a faff). I have had the Woolly Mammoth kit from PedalParts and it's an easy build, although it's one of those annoying circuits that doesn't play nicely with any sort of buffer in front of it, which renders it pretty much useless for me. Sounds great by itself, all the same.

Finally got round to building the Guma Drive kit I've been putting off for months due to apprehension over the SMD parts. Turns out I needn't have worried - it was actually pretty easy! Really like the pearlescent lacquer on this but I'm not sold on the silver knobs - might switch to the black ones that DarkGlass use on the original. [URL=http://s36.photobucket.com/user/JohnnyWishbone035/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A4ED47D9-1512-4639-BCF8-2C2ABC31F09E.jpg.html][IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e39/JohnnyWishbone035/Mobile%20Uploads/A4ED47D9-1512-4639-BCF8-2C2ABC31F09E.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1499456120' post='3331744'] Can't fault the old DT10 in this respect. [/quote] Weird, I ditched my DT10 after my first outdoor gig - couldn't see a bloody thing! Switched to a Polytune and never had the problem since. Evidently YMMV!

In the jungle, the mighty jungle..... [URL=http://s36.photobucket.com/user/JohnnyWishbone035/media/Mobile%20Uploads/AEE1F1D2-370E-4FBE-8B0F-CFCFF5C7682C.jpg.html][IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e39/JohnnyWishbone035/Mobile%20Uploads/AEE1F1D2-370E-4FBE-8B0F-CFCFF5C7682C.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Yep, TC Polytune 👍🏻

I use a zip tie round the shaft of the footswitch - as it's hard plastic rather than rubber (like the Grolsch grommet) it doesn't compress and helps with my clumsy tap-dancing no end. I had to try a few different sizes to get the right width but it's solved the problem for me. Not really re-usable (you have to cut it off to remove it) but they cost pennies so not really an issue. YMMV of course. Hope that helps.

Whoaahhh Black Betty [URL=http://s36.photobucket.com/user/JohnnyWishbone035/media/Mobile%20Uploads/106B5D19-5406-44A0-8289-A477067F7F65.jpg.html][IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e39/JohnnyWishbone035/Mobile%20Uploads/106B5D19-5406-44A0-8289-A477067F7F65.jpg[/IMG][/URL]