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[quote name='tombboy' post='318670' date='Oct 30 2008, 09:37 PM']..you'd probably have to have slept with me to have another fiddle now!![/quote] You weren't that good the first time to be honest Reminds me, we need to sort out 15th. My turn to bring the gear?? S

Agree with Nick - Ebeneezers can be hit or miss - it's quite a big place but a nice stage. Cherry Tree will be great if you get the regular Saturday crowd as they love a good rock covers band. Hope you haven't got too much gear though, it's a tight squeeze. Can't promise anything but might make it Saturday. I'll try to bring our singer as she's always up for checking out other girl vocalists! Steve

Welcome to the world of Rickenbacker Nick. It's a lovely looking bass, I hope you enjoy playing it as much as I enjoy playing mine.. Steve

[quote name='littleal' post='314702' date='Oct 25 2008, 06:59 PM']Does the tu2 affect your sound then ?[/quote] In my opinion yes. When I had one, I had it on it's own loop so I could switch it in and out

I have a DTR2000 in my rack but in my pedalboard I have just switched to a Korg Pitchblack. It's as accurate as the rackmount version, true bypass and very small. I upgraded from a DT-10, which I upgraded from the tone sucking TU2.

I agree - the signal is coming out of the green pedal and in to the MXR. He's turned it upside down so that it's easier to connect up ie the input jack of the mxr is close to the output jack of the green pedal. Perfectly normal in my book, I've often turned pedals upside down or on their side etc. to fit the signal path.

The unit might have been upside down, but it was probably plugged in correctly! Either that or he's swapped the jacks round inside the housing to suit his pedal board. I use one and it doesn't work if I plug IN to the Output as kev says.

FWIW my 4Pro came with 3x Sovteks and a GT in position 1, so sounds standard. Dood, if you remember, I replaced my Sovteks with Harmas, but one failed at a gig unfortunately, which was slightly annoying. Steve

It's not your job to provide gear for other bass players. Everyone is responsible for providing their own gear to do the job so I think they're taking advantage of your good nature and your situation. If they can't provide their own gear, or more to the point can't be arsed to use it, then your band shouldn't be using them. If it were me I'd say "You get paid the same as me, so you should provide your own gear, just as I do." If you want to rent it, then rent it properly and charge proper rates, rather than a nominal amount. £5 is nothing if it means not having to drive and not having to lug your own gear around actually not worrying too much as it's not your gear.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='302608' date='Oct 8 2008, 10:52 PM']Contact area innit, same as my the badass is big and machined at the bottom.[/quote] Only if you file a slot to fit the exact string gauge that you're using, otherwise the preslotted ones will be just as good. I defy anyone without the hearing of a bat to be able to tell the difference though.

Apart from Nick, none of us are good enough, Marcus....! Good luck in your search though.

I've done this a few times. MM P bass necks are already sealed and briefly lacquered although they don't look like it. I mask off the entire fretboard and concentrate on the back of the neck and the headstock, unless you are going for a different tint of lacquer. Always wear a mask. The headstock finish is ok to apply a decal straight on to. When you do this, allow the decal to dry OVERNIGHT and VERY LIGHTLY dust the headstock with lacquer the next day. Then wait a few hours and dust again. Too much lacquer at this stage will pickle the decal and you'll have to start again. Then you can apply light coats to both the neck and the headstock. I usually suspend the neck by a wire coathanger from the ceiling of my garage. Wait plenty of time between coats - hours or even a full day if you can. I apply at least six coats if not more. If you ever apply a coat and it looks wet, then you've applied to much and it might run. If it runs, your only course of action is to wait until it dries and sand it out. Once you have applied your final coat, wait. A week. Two if you can. This is because although lacquer appears dry, it is still soft under the outer coat and needs time to cure. When it's cured, time to get out the wire wool and very fine wet and dry paper and sand down the neck LIGHTLY till it is smooth but be careful on the headstock that you don't rub all the way down to the new decal. This will produce a matt finish, which is OK. If you want it shiny then some car polish or t cut carefully applied will bring it up a treat. I actually use Autosol, though quite sparingly. Remember that the layer under the one you are smoothing out will be softer, so go carefully.

The Hipshot website has comprehensive instructions too. It's just the way things are with the Hipshot extender. You'll get used to it.

I've a very nice thin platinum wedding ring. It got in the way of my playing a bit, so I got rid of the wife and moved the ring to my right hand. Problem solved.

Short sharp pumps are the key to filling properly rather than a long pump and always hold the butane upside down. I get much longer than 5 mins soldering time.

Sorry Adee, been away. Standard Fender fitting is a 250k solid shaft pot.

I use one on a Precision and it's great once you get used to the tuning method (which is a bit quirky). For fast accurate down tuning it's a godsend, especially if you are not having gaps between songs to allow you to retune properly. Even if you buy one and don't get on with it, you'll not lose much on resale value. Steve

Right OK, this sounds like a faff but it isn't really! Traditional precision pickups WITHOUT the S1 had three wires, one from each pup and one joining the two together - hence wired in series. Like your Fralins. Precision pickups WITH the S1 switch actually have four wires - two from each pickup (yellow and black from the rythmn pickup and white and black from the lead). They act as two independent pickups like a Jazz bass. The S1 switch allows them to be switched between parallel and series. SO, what you need to do is convert your two wire Fralins to be four wire Fralins. When I installed my QPs I left all the wires attached to the pots as they were and unsoldered the wires from the pickup terminals that I was taking out. I then resoldered the wires to the terminals on the new pickups. Normally you'd leave the wires attached to the pickups and solder to the pot connections so this way is the other way round. It's not a lot of extra soldering to be honest, though I would say that having S1 switching on a Precision is pretty much useless, as parallel mode is truly rubbish. Given that Fender have done away with it for this year's models I'd be tempted to swap out the S1 pot for a regular one, keep your Fralin as stock and sell the useless S1 switch on ebay or fit it to a Jazz bass. Hope that helps Steve

[quote name='Deep Thought' post='283578' date='Sep 14 2008, 11:19 AM']I had mine replaced by a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder-my local shop did it, so I don't know how it was done, but the pot was replaced as well. I had to get new knobs, as I was left with a volume knob with a hole in it where the S-1 button used to go.[/quote] I replaced mine with a Q/P and I kept the S1 switch, no problem, no need to replace the pot. Adee, i need to have a look inside my current Precision as I wrote down the details a while ago and can't find them. Bear with me. It's not that complicated. I'll get round to it tonight for you. Steve

I've replaced quite a few pickups in Precisions with S1 switches. How many wires does your Lindy Fralin have?

OldGit helped me loads in setting up our website and I started with zero knowledge. We're pretty close to top if not the top of Google rankings for covers bands in our area and get more business from it than we can handle. Check out Si's [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=142"]thread[/url] first off - I tried to follow it pretty much to the letter and then Si 'audited' it for me. It's still not perfect but does the job for us. Ours is [url="http://www.burlesquerockband.com/"]here.[/url] MySpace is a good backup too, so we have both.

[quote name='TheDarkReaver' post='279058' date='Sep 7 2008, 12:29 PM']Hello there, I grew up in lincolnshire and my parents still live there so I go back during holidays and what not. What a dull place it can be.[/quote] I also grew up there, but you should try it out now. Lincoln itself is rapidly turning in to a very lively city (as a result of the University mainly) and I enjoy going back. Do you play pubs in the city Mzungu71 and if so which ones? Steve

I have short arms and stubby fingers! I found the thumb in the back of the neck was actually easier in the long run but you do have to be a little more precise with finger placement. I play precisions and have had a Stingray in the past and prefer wide necks in general. I have found three things of help. The first is to get the guitar at the right position for you, not too high up under your chin and not too low so that it's swinging round your knees. The best position will feel comfortable for both hands. The second is to ensure the guitar is set up properly. This ensures your fretting hand is not working harder than it needs to in fretting the strings. The third is as has been said, perhaps try a 1,2,4 finger combination for starters.