Muppet

Dunno if you can disconnect it but it has an attenuator control on the back of the cab for the horn so you can turn it all the way off. Interesting point, the HP version is on wheels and does not have the tilt back function as per the pic you posted. Don't know if it makes any difference.

I have a BA115HP (the 220w version) I'm very impressed with it but don't use it very loudly at all. It's not that boomy but it IS a 15" and not a 4x10 so yo uhave to bear that in mind. The features are pretty basic and th horn is a little hissy but that's about it. You can get a pretty good Ampeg tone out of it and it compares well with my SVT4Pro. For gigs a long way away where I am DI'ing and not relying on it solely for FOH then I do use this amp a lot.

Sounds daft but check first that you've wired it all up correctly and that by placing the electronics back in the cavity you haven't inadvertently shorted a wire or trapped it or such like.

Ask Stace - he's had a go at everything else...

....and who lives in Moscow, Sydney, Beijing, Glasgow, Bognor........ location man location. I might come and see you at The Park ;-)

£350 is a reasonable price for a good condition model.

B&Q, Homebase, eBay, loads of it around. I covered my board with Fablon (an adhesive backed plastic) and then put four strips of velcro across the board, rather than cover the whole board in velcro.

We have a leader? I thought we were an autonomous collective.... Welcome to Basschat, mate. I love New Zealand - such a wonderful country, you're very lucky to live there.

[quote name='thinman' post='132106' date='Feb 1 2008, 06:06 PM']So, can tuning the 12th fret harmonic to 12th fretted result in that note not being an octave higher than open?[/quote] Yes if your intonation is incorrect. If you CAN tune 12th fret harmonic to 12 fretted then all that means is that your intonation is correct. If there IS a difference then the only way to fix it is by adjusting string length, not by tuning to a note. Once you've got those two reading the same (regardless of what NOTE you are using to tune to) then you can use the 12th fret harmonic to tune to your electronic tuner safe in the knowledge that the open string, the 12th fretted AND the harmonic are all in tune.

[quote name='thinman' post='131462' date='Jan 31 2008, 06:39 PM']OK, Thanks for clearing that up. A second question then.... When I've set intonation I've simply used a tuner to determine that the open tuning and 12th fret are the same (but an octave aprt of course!). However, I also read that it's set by ensuring the harmonic at the 12th is the same as the note at the 12th when fretted and I've read that using a tuner to do this is advised. Does it make any difference how it's done and am I doing wrong?[/quote] When you've SET the intonation then you can tune however you like to whatever note you like, though 12th fret harmonic is a good option. Checking fretted against harmonic will show you whether your intonation is correct allowing you to adjust the string length.

Actually, seeing your signal chain, why don't you set one of your Sansamp programs to compensate? You can use it as a clean boost, if you have all the settings at 12 o cclock.

I use a MXR Micro amp. Straight forward no fuss.

[quote name='nottswarwick' post='127434' date='Jan 24 2008, 11:25 PM']thanks steve. I thought the trim pots are for the threshold of the multiband compressin mode - this is what the manual says in any case. It happens in all 3 modes, and regardless of the compression I dial in....[/quote] Ah bollox, I've not got a manual and rather hoped they were for the input gain. Oh well, if it's not the usual suspects of cables, batteries or bass then back it should go. I never had any problems with mine such as you describe, but I was only using passive basses. Best of luck, it's really really annoying when you get something new only for it not to work as you'd hoped! Steve

Chris Have you tried adjusting the sensitivity trimpots inside the pedal to suit your basses (there's two - one for high one for low)? They're set at halfway as default but you could try winding them anticlockwise a touch to see if that helped. cheers Steve

Yes mate absolutely - it's a USB external soundcard with modelling software that sits on your PC.

Have you tried it without the distortion, playing lightly? It sounds pretty much to me as if your onboard soundcard is not up to the job. Most onboard cards are designed to output better than to accept incoming signals and laptop generic cards are the worst of the lot. I'd consider a small USB external soundcard.

You'd be better identifying a pedal that either is designed for bass or operates in such a fashion that bass loss is minimised. If you have a deeper delve in to the effects forum you'll find a few threads on recommended distortions for bass. Using an octave isn't really going to help your cause neither is an EQ pedal.

cool

Why don't you run your bass volume pot at full and use your amp's volume control to limit the overall volume? You're only getting half the sound out.

[url="http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p888_Tolex-Marshall-Style-Levant-Green---Gruen.html"]here[/url]

The ground wire should come from the control cavity to underneath the bridge. As long as there is bare wire there (I tend to splay the wire thread out) then the pressure of the bridge being screwed on to it should provide good enough contact.

What I mean by permanent is that you can't reverse it - you have to buy a new nut and then have that filed etc.... If you were using 95 or 100 gauge then I would have suggested increasing as wider strings require greater tension, though a 105 detuned to D should be no problem at all. Check the break angle of the string over the nut first and ensure the string is wound right down to the bottom of the string post and then, sure, consider filing the nut. As I said, any needle file will do but I don't know if they are sold individually.