Muppet

That's strange - I find them pretty accomodating, just not very competitive. My guitarist has just spent a fortune on new amps with them so they do tend to like us a bit. I'm in four bands at the minute mate, the two busiest being www.myspace.com/thebrackets and www.burlesquerockband.com I'll check your stuff out. Cheers Steve

Speak to Wizbat - he's done something very similar with his pedal board.

Turning it on it's head slightly, would a wireless system for your bass work, allowing you to check out front exactly how you sound, or is the problem purely monitoring? Steve

No - but then again it's the same whether you go to Peterborough or to Cambridge. To be fair, Live Music in Peterborough are a friendly bunch and will price match the internet prices if you are nice to them!

Rotosound do a short scale set of swing bass if I recall. I think the gauge is 45-95 or something like that

Welcome mate. I'll ask around for you but at the moment I don't know of much going on. Cheers Steve

OK well S1 or no S1 (seeing as it's just a different pot and that's not going to alter the weight) Your USA Precision (USA being more relevant) will more than likely weigh in at between 9lbs and 9.5 lbs. If your Japanese feel lighter then I would suggest it's basswood. My japanese precisons of basswood are noticeably lighter than my american ones or alder or ash.

How much does it weigh? Basswood tends to be lighter in my experience. You can certainly tell the difference between a current Japanese Precision in basswood and one in alder.

More sophisticated, intelligent ladies are always drawn to the bass player. They appreciate subtle understatement. Unless you're slapping.

I do believe Nicky Wire tends to play Italia basses. I always thought it had to be more for looks than sound. Well with him anyway.

I get more female attention gigging as a married bass player than I ever did as a single one. It just ain't fair!!

Don't rule out fret wear either. It's at the extreme end of fault finding but can cause intonation problems (as can poor string seating on slotted saddles!)

[quote name='Maximus' post='44022' date='Aug 10 2007, 10:38 PM']Forget the ibanez pd-7! Sell it and buy my amazing Crowther Hotcake XLF (extra low frequencies) It is really a great pedal, I am selling it because i'm not in a band at the moment and need the cash! Consider it Just go to my for sale thread in my sig and listen to that video .[/quote] Aha! The only distortion pedal I've stuck with for any great length of time. I love the sound from this pedal. The ODB3 is the sort of starter distortion pedal in my opinion. It's a place to start, if only to decide what is and what isn't good. Jam jars, wasps, say no more.

It will fit any American Fender from 1994 onwards - i.e. when they started using three screw fixing and string through bodies. It won't fit a five hole fixing. I use them on all my Precisions save one.

Mine looks like this. I feel cheated. No porn or gambling, just useless bass advertising..

Just a little bit further down the forum finds this which may be of some help [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3779"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3779[/url]

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='40799' date='Aug 3 2007, 10:12 AM']think there are a few combos that have them don't ampeg make a combo with a built in tuner?[/quote] Sure do. The BA range have inbuilt tuners.

Has it got the 'edge' control on this one?

I use a SVT4PRO with a 610 Ampeg cab. Much easier to transport than a 810 - more or less the same looks and sound.

just sell the S1 pot together with the push button knob. You'll get just as much as if you include the control plate!

Great choice. They enhance the sound of a quality guitar. I'm sure you'll love it.

Yes it's very possible. The pickups are the same you just need to wire them differently. Your problems will be getting hold of the Fender S1 switch. They are very protective over them and you can't buy them as spares as far as I can make out. You can, however buy a push/pull pot and wire it the same as the S1 switch very easily.

if it's halfway in then you've still got some of the shaft sticking out. Either, take a file and file the sides of the screwhead square so you can get a purchase on it with a pair of molegrips, or take a small hacksaw blade and file a slot in the top of the screw so that you can use a slotted screwdriver. Drill and tap - well, you'll need to cut the shaft off first then use a fine reverse thread drill (stud extractor) As it's in wood you don't need to re-tap in the regular sense as any wood screw will do this.

I put on a gig tonight night and the second band used an Ashdown MAG300 head with a Ampeg cab. After a couple of songs the cab went quiet but the amp still functioned, as did the DI signal to FOH. Unplugging the cab and waiting a while then plugging back in resolved the problem initially but then it happened again, so I jumped up on stage and swapped the head with my SVT4PRO that I brought along and no further problems. So, is this a failsafe in the cab or head, or a problem with the cab or head, anyone care to make an educated guess? S

Got mine from that shop in Germany. They have a good distributor and can source from Belgium too if they've not got any.