stevie

I've carried out some testing of cabs loaded with different drivers. The results showed that two cabinets with a similar frequency response will usually work as a stack. They don't have to be fitted with same-size drivers; they just need to be close tonally.

Ditto.

I was lucky enough to watch the interview at the time, but I'll be revisiting it thanks to this video. Mike's content is always interesting. I've starting tuning in to his Youtube live stream, which has now moved to the more convenient (IMO) Sunday evening. He seems to have concentrated on basses in recent times, but I think he might be reviewing some bass cabs any time now.

We didn't adjust the output of the HF driver, but there didn't appear to be any lack of treble. I've been asked more than a few times to produce a cab without a tweeter/crossover to act as a "sub" for LFSys cabs. When I tried it, there was more bass - as you'd expect - but the overall sound quality was noticeably inferior. I'm pretty sure this is because the second bass driver doesn't sound great when it's unequalised and operating above 2kHz: most large cone drivers have resonant peaks at or above this frequency that my crossovers deliberately remove. Adding a crossover to equalise and roll off the LF driver might fix this, but then you might as well go the whole hog and fit the compression driver and horn as well.

Theoretically, yes, as the widest dispersion from the bottom tweeter would then be in a vertical direction. I haven't tried it myself - so I can't be certain how it would work out. Theoretically, having the horns spaced wide apart with the bottom one on the floor isn't ideal, but in practice it's fine.

This was the result of some experiments I carried out on stacking cabs. To cut a long story short, it's important when stacking to keep the bass drivers as close as possible. With cabs that have a tweeter on top, that means placing the bottom one on its side, with the top one in its normal orientation.

Agreed. I have a Markbass Compressore that I've stopped using since I got the Trace. The compressor's that good.

Yes, I second that emotion.

Although Neutrik do make superb products, they have had a few duds over the years. I haven't heard of any problems with Speakon sockets, but as @Chienmortbb says, @agedhorse is the man with the experience here.

Yes, but it's nice to have all that power in reserve. Still enjoying mine. I compared it with some very nice, high-end amps at the last SE Bash but I didn't hear anything that would make me want to change.

Indeed. Have you changed the setting in your measurement software yet?

Phil's right about crossover modelling software. It can get close most of the time, but not always, and only an idiot would rely on it entirely. The main benefit is that it saves time, and allows you to experiment more easily with complex circuits. As with any other modelling software, you need to understand the subject area and the assumptions that the software is making. But you still need to build, test and fine-tune your crossover(s) the old-fashioned way. Otherwise, it's like making a recipe for a cake without baking and tasting it.

The phase at 2kHz (and elsewhere) isn't a phase reversal: it's how the phase is represented when it passes 180 degrees. To see what's actually happening with the phase, you need to compensate for time of flight. Right-click on the phase curve and select Estimate IR Delay (on the latest version of REW) - or press Ctrl+Alt+E. Then have another look at the phase graph. Also, the dip at 2kHz is not typical of a phase reversal dip - unless you're using smoothing, of course, which would tend to fill in the dip.

It looks like you've got a 120-litre box, which is twice the size you need. This will drastically reduce the power handling of the drivers. My software puts the tuning frequency at 39Hz. So, your two 300W drivers will handle about 20 watts at 40Hz. Time to get the saw out again, methinks.😀

I started using it recently. The drying time depends on the ambient temperature and air moisture level. It will dry OK at temperatures of around 10 degrees. I leave each coat for a day at the moment but drying outside with a bit of wind is faster. You should be all right at current Yorkshire temperatures, although it would probably be best to paint in the morning and avoid overnight drying when the temperature is expected to drop to 0 degrees.