stevie

Yes, I second that emotion.

Although Neutrik do make superb products, they have had a few duds over the years. I haven't heard of any problems with Speakon sockets, but as @Chienmortbb says, @agedhorse is the man with the experience here.

Yes, but it's nice to have all that power in reserve. Still enjoying mine. I compared it with some very nice, high-end amps at the last SE Bash but I didn't hear anything that would make me want to change.

Indeed. Have you changed the setting in your measurement software yet?

Phil's right about crossover modelling software. It can get close most of the time, but not always, and only an idiot would rely on it entirely. The main benefit is that it saves time, and allows you to experiment more easily with complex circuits. As with any other modelling software, you need to understand the subject area and the assumptions that the software is making. But you still need to build, test and fine-tune your crossover(s) the old-fashioned way. Otherwise, it's like making a recipe for a cake without baking and tasting it.

The phase at 2kHz (and elsewhere) isn't a phase reversal: it's how the phase is represented when it passes 180 degrees. To see what's actually happening with the phase, you need to compensate for time of flight. Right-click on the phase curve and select Estimate IR Delay (on the latest version of REW) - or press Ctrl+Alt+E. Then have another look at the phase graph. Also, the dip at 2kHz is not typical of a phase reversal dip - unless you're using smoothing, of course, which would tend to fill in the dip.

It looks like you've got a 120-litre box, which is twice the size you need. This will drastically reduce the power handling of the drivers. My software puts the tuning frequency at 39Hz. So, your two 300W drivers will handle about 20 watts at 40Hz. Time to get the saw out again, methinks.😀

I started using it recently. The drying time depends on the ambient temperature and air moisture level. It will dry OK at temperatures of around 10 degrees. I leave each coat for a day at the moment but drying outside with a bit of wind is faster. You should be all right at current Yorkshire temperatures, although it would probably be best to paint in the morning and avoid overnight drying when the temperature is expected to drop to 0 degrees.

If you're using that crossover, I'd say it's highly likely to be the cause. Try bypassing the LF section of your crossover and wiring direct to the bass drivers. Then you'll know.

Hi @Linus27. Thanks for considering LFSys cabs. The main difference between the Monaco and Monza, apart from the obvious things like size and weight (and price), is the sensitivity, which is a direct result of the smaller cabinet size. Tonally, they are very close, but the Monaco will go louder than the Monza when pushed.

It looks like that driver comes with its own gasket already fitted. So, you won't need any foam. I wish other driver manufacturers would do this.

I seem to have made things more complicated than necessary by mentioning using foam gasket to seal the back panel. Please ignore, and glue the back panel in. I'd still suggest using screws to ensure that the panel is firmly glued to the battens. If you drive the screws below the surface, you can fill the holes with wood filler and sand.

If you buy white, you should be able to make whatever colour you want with some acrylic colourant. I've done this myself with colourant from Polyvine. I've never tried tinting white - so I've no idea how much you'd need. To get a good textured finish, you'll need the special foam rollers from Blue Aran. They're not the same as the ones you can buy in DIY stores - the foam is much coarser. You can buy them from Ali Express but I haven't seen them anywhere else. If anyone knows another source, that would be useful. If you can recess the input panel, you'll achieve a better seal - and it will also look better - but surface mounting works also. Don't for goodness sakes mess about with sealant. Use adhesive foam strip. 2mm thickness is about right. I'd use screws on the rear panel. Plenty of them. I'm assuming you're gluing the panel in, but do use foam gasket otherwise. Fixing the speaker with T-nuts and bolts (likely M4 or 5) is the preferred method, but woodscrews should work on this size of speaker. If the Fane is already gasketed (which is unusual), you won't need to add any more. If you really need silicone sealant, you haven't built the cab properly. Unless you have a good (i.e. expensive) crimp tool and the correct crimps (there are different specifications), solder the terminals. It's fine. You don't normally need removable panels to access the inside of the cab, as you should be able to gain access through the hole in the baffle for the driver. By all means, make the panels removeable for testing, but once you're happy with the cab, I'd glue them in. Sealant has no place in a speaker cabinet!

Blue Aran hasn't had any black Tuffcab for months. Your best bet is to get a litre tin of Armacab from Penn Elcom. It's very similar to Tuffcab but thicker in consistency and with a higher pigment content. It'll cost £27 delivered. To get a decent finish, you'll need the foam rollers from Blue Aran. Unfortunately, they're out of stock of those as well but they're due in mid-December according to the website. In current weather conditions, it'll take some time to dry. So, leave each coat to dry overnight - and don't allow the paint to freeze, as it will then be useless.

You're welcome, @basexperience. Here are a couple more.