stevie

How many of these threads to we actually need?

When I had my TC RH450 Classic I also had a cab that needed some boost at the very bottom end - not unlike the one owned by the OP. Unfortunately, the frequency response of the TC rolls off below 80Hz. So when I tried to compensate for a lack of low-lows by turning the bass control up I also boosted the upper bass, which led to boom. That and the clanky mids (IMO) meant that I couldn't get on with it. The non-Classic version has more sophisticated tone controls and might work better. I changed to an Ashdown MiBass, which allowed me to dial in the bottom end I wanted.

There are ways and ways..... Advertisement 1. Rock bassist wanted. NO JEWS! Advertisement 2. Rock bassist wanted for a bunch of born-again Christians. If you're comfortable with that, and preferably share the same beliefs, come and join us. To me, the ad sounded more like 1. than 2.. although I'm sure Neil meant no offense and will perhaps take something away from this little discussion.

Porting the cab wouldn't be too difficult (although a pain): I'd be more worried about how 'sealed' the back panel was. I expect Lean will produce some ported cabs for bass if this line takes off, which it quite likely will. It might be worth waiting until then. As far as drivers are concerned, the Green Celestion neos (BN12-300X) are a good inexpensive buy - inexpensive for neo drivers that is. What is interesting about this range of cabs is that could offer an opportunity to clone some, dare I say it, overpriced booteek models.

If I were in Essex, greyparrot, I'd be over in a flash. I've always enjoyed your vids.

[quote name='4StringFortress' timestamp='1369982653' post='2095107'] This might have all ready been covered so apologies if it has but I'm looking for a cure to the neck dive with my BB415, I have read else where that new tuners will do the job, is there anything that could work? If not what tuners do I need to be looking at and how much money will I be I looking at? [/quote] A set of Hipshot tuners cured the neck dive on my BB. I think Schaller and Gotoh make something similar. They need to be made of aluminium.

Bought a bridge from Paul. The transaction went smoothly, delivery was fast and the item was exactly as described. Recommeneded.

It sounds like it's fried, yes. You're unlikely to do better than the Visaton one, although there are other ones around that are a bit cheaper. Like this one: <http://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/l-pad-attenuator-at-62h-425-p.asp>

That would be Mike Cooper, I take it. Nice to see he's still around and about.

I use open strings all the time. They are different because you have to damp them in a different way to stop them ringing too long - you can't just lift your finger off the fret.

I had a TC Electronics bass preamp a while back - basically a four-band parametric eq - which I sold when I decided that dinky lightweight amps were a good idea. After that excursion, I tried to get hold of another one but they are difficult to find - so I bought a Behringer four-band mono parametric which, to my ears, is just as transparent. I'm using it with a Rauch or QSC power amp depending on how much power I need. The unbalanced input is perfect for bass and I have real control over my sound, and more importantly, the room I'm in. It's a bit more messing about, but setting it up with a RTA (on a laptop) gets me the fattest, cleanest, punchiest sound I could wish for. It's not for the faint hearted, however, and you really do need to know what you're doing to avoid messing up. Which is probably why it's a step too far for most people.

Some interesting stuff about Groove Tubes on there. Worth a dig.

All very sensible stuff so far. If the tops are sounding a bit thin you could also try overlapping the crossover frequencies if you are able to do that. Say, 120Hz for the subs and 80 Hz for the tops. And of course, you should also try swapping the phase of the subs or the tops and listening to the difference it makes. Use whatever connection gives you a 'fuller' bass sound. Measuring equipment makes all of this a lot easier, it has to be said.

Sorry if I didn't explain myself properly. The normal way to connect subs up is to use an active crossover to cut the high frequencies from the subs and cut the low frequencies from the tops. When you put the two together you get a nice flat frequency response with no overlap. In theory. However, sometimes it can sound better if you do have some overlap, especially if the tops have a relatively high built-in (acoustical) rolloff anyway. So, what I meant was, connect the subs in the normal way but try running the tops flat (full range) without allowing the crossover to cut the low end.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1367318152' post='2064029'] Ooops. Were you awake when you typed that? [/quote] Now why would you think that, Chris? I've been up and hard at work for several hours.

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1367315050' post='2063965'] You can tell that from the photos? [/quote] Not from the photos, but it's a fair deduction from the technical specs. I'd be happy to be proved wrong though.

Looks like a Deltalight and a cheap bullet in a thinwall cab. I must be missing something here as I don't see anything to get excited about.

You'll eventually have to spend a little time figuring out where the optimum crossover point is. I agree 120Hz is a good place to start. A lot will depend on how low your top boxes go. Don't forget the option of running the tops full range and just rolling off the subs. That can sometimes work.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1366205817' post='2049579'] Correct, it is an article about speakers, and how damping factor is irrelevant, so being a valve amplifier is thus irrelevant. That is the whole point. [/quote] At the risk of stating the obvious, you can't prove a point about valve amps by quoting an article that has nothing to do with valve amps.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1366157081' post='2049162'] Modern speakers are plenty damped all on their own. Modern like not 1930s. If damping factor was an issue, cabs would sound significantly different depending on if they are wired in series or parallel. [url="http://www.cartchunk.org/audiotopics/SeriesSpeaker.pdf"]http://www.cartchunk...riesSpeaker.pdf[/url] [/quote] That article was published in 2000, forty years after valve technology went the way of the dodo for most people. He wasn't talking about valve amps.

Valve bounce, eh? It's a term used in vehicle mechanics. From Wikipedia: "[b]Valve bounce[/b] is a related condition where the valve does not stay seated due to the combined effects of the valve's inertia and resonance of metallic valve springs that reduce the closing force, and allow the valve to re-open partially."

Chris bought a pickup from me. Payment came through quickly and as agreed and everything went swimmingly. Good bloke! Stevie

Yes, it’s quite clear what you mean, hamfist. I can’t give you a definitive answer on this but I can tell you how to find out. All of the bass cabs with tweeters I've examined so far have crossover components on the tweeter but nothing on the bass. The bass unit is normally wired directly to the input and in theory rolls off naturally where the tweeter rolls in. So the chances are that what you are hearing from the bass units is what they actually sound like full range: you’re unlikely to get any more treble out of them. I can’t be 100% sure because I’ve never looked inside your cab. If you want to take a look inside, trace the wires from the input to the bass units. If there is an inductor (coiled enameled copper wire) at some point in the circuit you should simple bridge it with a piece of wire to take it out of circuit (solder for a permanent job). That will make the bass units brighter. Make sure the inductor is connected in series with the bass units though. There is likely to be an inductor across the tweeter: bridge that and you could be in trouble. In the extremely unlikely event that there is a coil *and* a cap on the bass units you will need to disconnect the cap as well. I’m just covering all eventualities – I don’t think you’ll find one.