stevie

Sold me an EMU USB preamp/headphone thingie which is excellent. Fast delivery and well packed up. A good guy!

Pop into your local farmer's outlet and get yourself some sturdy fence mesh. I picked up a square metre for a fiver recently. You want the type that EBS uses. Cut and bend it into the shape you want, then get a can of Plastikote and paint it black. You will probably need to cobble together some rubber washers (EBS use pieces of hosepipe) to provide some support when you screw it to the baffe. The big benefit is that it's a lot lighter than the usual perforated steel stuff, although it's obviously not as sturdy.

I also love the styling of these. Dave has done a very professional job.

The 95dB of the Alpha 6 should make it a fairly good match for the 3012LF.

[quote name='MartyBRebelMC' timestamp='1342866955' post='1742015'] I don't think this is very helpfull to the OP [/quote] On the contrary. It is always helpful to get opinions from people who like the product and people who dislike the product. What is very unhelpful is when everyone says how wonderful a product is without pointing out its shortcomings, real or imagined. The OP can then take from this discussion what's important to him.

[quote name='MartyBRebelMC' timestamp='1342864918' post='1741954'] Absolutely, the low end thing is all about what cab you're using and where in the room you are as much as the specs of the amp. [/quote] This is true, and with some cabs, the TC Electronics amp will sound balanced. However, most bass cabs do roll off below 100Hz - so most people are likely to get a sound that is bottom-light. No problem if that's what you want. My original point was that any amp can be made to sound subjectively loud by filtering the very low end.

Just look at the facts, m'lord. The amp produces 5 percent distortion at 236W on the test bench. The bass end is rolled off below 100Hz. Ergo, it's not a 500W amp and it will sound much "louder" than if it had a flat frequency response. The problem I had with the bottom end of my Classic 450 was that I couldn't put the low end back without boosting the upper bass. It may not be a problem with the more expensive version.

Very true. You should certainly bear that in mind.

Sorry guys, you might not think the low end is rolled off, but look at the measurements on the infamous magazine test. It's got a bump at 90Hz followed by a steep rolloff below that. Do that with any amp and it will go much louder because it does not stress the speakers nearly as much. And what has smashing a lightbulb got to do with the price of beans? Despite TC's protests, you cannot get past the fact that the amp produced 236W at *five percent distortion*. So it was basically completely out of puff at this point. If it were measured with less generous distortion levels (like 0.01% which is more normal) you would probably find that this is not even a 200W amp. I agree with WoT. What finally convinced me that mine sounded really grim was when our keyboard player tried it out. With it, my bass it sounded honky with no body, but with the keyboard you could hear it much more clearly. IMO of course:-). Definitely try before you buy. There are an awful lot of these turning up in the For Sale section right now.

Any amp will sound loud if you roll all the bass off. That amp has no bottom end. It's an amp for electric cello players.

Bought a couple of guitar hangers from Chris. They arrived very quickly and were exactly as described. A reliable bloke to do business with.

Because you're from Barnsley, I'd let them go for £20 each. New ones cost nearly £80 and these have only just had their surrounds renewed.

The 5" drivers were made by Audax. They were very nice but haven't been available for well over a decade. You could try to get them reconed but they won't be the same, as the original cones are no longer made. I have a couple of used Fane Studio 5Ms, which are a much better driver with a cast chassis, that I could sell you for a good price if you're stuck.

Sold Mike an amp that needed fixing, and being an amp tech, he was no doubt able to sort it out. Nice bloke, very easy to deal with. This is the first of what I have no doubt will be many positive feedbacks for Mike.

My limited experience of two highly regarded class-D bass amps is that they couldn't punch their way out of a paper bag. Definitely try before you buy if you're spending that kind of dosh. And try with your band if you can - in the shop doesn't tell you a lot. Of course, those who own these amps are going to tell you they are wonderful - and they might be right. But it's you're money.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1341830469' post='1724613'] This'll be great! Will be following the thread, very jealous of the CNC machine! [/quote] Yes, me too. Be careful with your crossover parts. If you can, find out what their power rating is. Most ferrite-based inductors will start to saturate well before you reach the maximum output of this system. Use laminated core or air-core. The latter is the best but expensive. Are you using poplar ply?

No, I'm not. do I need to be? It says 'Posted image' where the photo should appear. I'm not logged into Facebook when I use Chrome but I can see the photos in that browser.

Can anyone explain to me why I can't see the photos using Firefox? I can see them when I use Chrome.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1341603305' post='1721799'] Which is incredible for someone who can't even spell "castor"... [/quote] That's a classic!

Moosh is selling a Yammy at an unbeatable price here: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/173010-fs-yamaha-emx512sc-pa-mixer-amp-500w/page__fromsearch__1

I think you posted the wrong pic:-)

Dispersion isn't the only consideration in designing a midrange add-on. Spending up to £100 on a driver, half as much again on a crossover and then not making the most of its benefits by crossing over as high as 1k doesn't make a lot of sense. It wouldn't surprise me, however, if a lot of commercial bass cabs are crossed over that high in order to reduce the cost of the crossover. For the current crop of PA midrange drivers 600Hz is usually good, although there is a lot more than you might imagine to getting the crossover point right: much depends on the drivers you are using. There are currently some very good, low-cost midrange drivers available - from Celestion in particular - which could form the basis of a cheap midrange add-on. Unfortunately, designing a passive crossover is not an undertaking for the faint-hearted and, as Lfalex points out, an active solution would be complex, requiring asymmetrical slopes, phase compensation and frequency response shaping (all of which is relatively easy to achieve with a passive solution) - not to mention an additional power amp. The benefits of having a separate midrange driver are very worthwhile, however, and I'd never want to be without mine.