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stevie

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Everything posted by stevie

  1. I've just upgraded to an all-in-one printer, which means I have a Visioneer USB scanner spare. It's good quality and hasn't had a lot of use. Works on all Windows versions up to XP. Unfortunately, there are no drivers available for Windows 7. Collect from Dorchester area, although I occasionally get up to Shaftesbury and could drop it off/ arrange to meet thereabouts.
  2. Skidder, those look like external measurements to me. We need (accurate) internal measurements for the cab and the ports. Based on an internal volume of 100 litres for the Ashdown, the cab seems to be tuned to around 35Hz, which is much too low. What also concerns me is that the port diameter is too small. You're going to get compression and lack of bass when you turn up loud. You need to open up the port holes to fit two 100mm diameter ports. Otherwise you won't get all the benefits of your superior quality driver. It's not that difficult to do with a jigsaw, by the way, as you can buy ports with lips on them to hide your poor carpentry:-).
  3. Overdriving the power amp can destroy speakers by pumping more power into the speaker voice coils than they are designed for. Using a distortion pedal - or overdriving the preamp - won't. So clipping is not just clipping.
  4. With any good quality 2x12 cab you shouldn't really need anything else - so 4 ohms seems a reasonable enough choice to me.
  5. There would only be a point in retuning the cab if Ashdown got it wrong, i.e. if it's tuned higher than 60Hz. Nothing's impossible, of course, and if the OP posts the cab and port measurements, we can get a rough idea of what's what. I'd be more concerned myself about whether the new driver will fit in the existing hole.
  6. So what measurements did you do?
  7. The crappy drivers that Ashdown fit have a midbass bump no matter what you tune the port to. What was the tuning frequency?
  8. [quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1348071875' post='1808899'] ah ok, would it maybe be better to put the speaker in the warwick WCA pro 115 cab then? (it has 4 ports at the front) [/quote] Don't use the bigger cab - it will not sound very good, will handle less power and will lack punch - and you will be carrying around an extra 50 litres for no good purpose. Don't worry about the porting too much either although, as Mr Foxen says, if the ports are too small the cab won't sound good at high volumes. You really need two 4" ports in your box because you now have a driver that will handle more power than the original one - but try it and see. You don't need to retune the cab either. We can assume that Ashdown knows how to tune a bass cab. If the driver is suitable for the cab (which it is) the tuning will be fine.
  9. It's a trend. I think half of Basschat should really be playing the ukelele.
  10. Not only does he sell his used gear for silly money, Stevie is also great to deal with and posts stuff off quickly. You won't even get the inferior plastic-cased Behringer effects unit for £30. So what are you waiting for?
  11. It is worth mentioning that Sennheiser mics have also been targeted by the Chinese copiers. If you're buying secondhand, make sure you read the articles available on the web on how to spot a fake Sennheiser.
  12. Shure mics are a bit like Cadbury's chocolate and the Sun newspaper. People assume they're good because everyone else buys them. For your wife's purposes, look for a hypercardioid mic, also called supercardioid. You'll get more output and less feedback than with a standard cardioid mic. I'd shortlist the Sennheiser e845 (around £50 used on eBay or £80 new) and the AKG D5 (£59 new on eBay). Both of these sound better than the Shure 58, IMO. I recently bought an Audio Technica ATM41 on eBay for peanuts that vastly outperforms the Shure M58 in a direct comparison. The current model is the Pro61 (about £60). I haven't tried it but I would expect it to be good. There are some comparative reviews on YouTube - have a listen. Unless you absolutely need it, don't buy a mic with a switch. They tend to go wrong.
  13. [size=4][b]ZOOM B2 FOR SALE - £30[/b][/size] [size=4][/size] [size=4]I’ve decided I’m not an effects person. For those of you who are, this unit probably offers the best bang for the buck available at the moment. Not only do you get a pile of different amp sounds (Fender Bassman, SWR, Trace Elliot, etc.), but you get synth sounds, a 6-band graphic or parametric eq, a compressor and 45 different effects. Plus, a great chromatic tuner and a PCM drum machine with 40 different rhythms. All programmable, of course. [/size] [size=4]It works on batteries (very sensible AAs) or a power supply. It comes is a very sturdy metal case with sexy rubber end cheeks. This one is in near-new condition and complete with the original box, power supply and manual.[/size] [size=4]Thomann price: £76 plus shipping : [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/zoom_b2_bass_fx_pedal.htm."]http://www.thomann.d...s_fx_pedal.htm.[/url] My price £30 plus £5 postage. Paypal gift is OK. There are lots of positive views on the web.[/size]
  14. If you're looking for a 'WARM TONE', you need to spend some time looking for a couple of little thingamijiggs called 'tone controls'. You may not have heard of these, but they are usually round, stick out on the front of your amp and have labels next to them saying something like 'Bass' or 'Treble'. Try turning the first one to the right a bit, and the left one to the left a bit. Hey presto - a 'WARM TONE'. No need to thank me. By the way, if your amp is one of those sophisticated ones with a 'Mid' control, turning that to the left will also give you a 'WARM TONE'. Don't ask me why. Scary huh?
  15. Bought an effects unit from Gavin. It was in perfect condition. Just because I mentioned that it would be good to have the unit for our rehearsal on Monday, he splashed out on Special Delivery at no extra charge to me. A gent, and a good bloke to deal with.
  16. [quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1346926406' post='1794832'] Easiest option is to replace with OEM. [/quote] Whilst this is undoubtedly true, it is highly unlikely that they will be the 'best' replacement speakers for that cab, given that the it is a budget model. Simon, it's not so much the outer diameter of the cones that matters but the diameter of the chassis (and the diameter of the cutout). Although they are both nominally 10 inches, a cast chassis (i.e. better quality) is usually bigger than a pressed steel chassis, which is probably what you have now. If you were to fit speakers with a cast chassis you might not get them in the box. Measure and check against the driver manufacturer's specs.
  17. It's not a dual concentric. As the OP has now discovered, it's a whizzer cone. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/195018-how-does-whizzer-cone-work-tips-whizzerectomy.html
  18. [quote name='Spoombung' timestamp='1345394531' post='1777037'] Most bass amps are clean and sound pretty similar. It's the cab that makes the difference. [/quote] It should be so but it isn't. Many bass amps don't even try for a flat response for a start.
  19. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1345314686' post='1776251'] Fearful 15/15/66 combined with Crown XTi 6000 or QSC of similar power. Adequate clean headroom. Pre amp to taste. [/quote] I'm using an old QSC power amp at the moment and it's the best sound I've ever had (with a Behringer preamp would you believe). It knocks spots off my previous Trace, TC Electronics and Ashdown amps in terms of sheer, unadulterated transparency. Not to mention punch and infinite headroom.
  20. [quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1345188542' post='1774636'] I haven't checked the Young's modulus for the various plys (Basically how bendy they are) so I don't know which timber will be more resonant. I might look that up too. [/quote] The Young's modulus of birch ply is 300% higher than MDF or chipboard. As we know, stiffness is the key criterion for good bass cabinets.
  21. An interesting project. Bear in mind though that you already have the ideal cabinet material in 3/4" plywood and are unlikely to maintain the same quality of sound if you go lighter. Unless a lightweight cabinet is a 'must', the best solution to transporting the cab would be castors or a trolley. (Now cue all those with cabs made of 1/8" balsa wood telling me I'm wrong. ) If you go ahead, I hope you'll report back with your findings.
  22. stevie

    discreet

    I just bought a pedal from Mark, which arrived double quick and in perfect condition. Thanks!
  23. I'm not sure that sticking a very expensive driver in a cheap chipboard box is a great idea.
  24. Another thought - make sure the speaker is screwed in evenly all round. It's unlikely, but the chassis might be slightly twisted.
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