stevie

[quote name='Benplaysbass' post='1320618' date='Jul 29 2011, 04:29 PM']I had thought that the 115 cab would give it the lows.[/quote] That's what most people would do but some people believe you should never mix driver sizes.

[quote name='ficelles' post='1320497' date='Jul 29 2011, 02:46 PM']Any rule of thumb for size?[/quote] Doesn't it depend on the EBP and Qtc?

[quote name='andydye' post='1276680' date='Jun 21 2011, 09:23 AM']My intention is that it will have an internal void of 300x300x300mm with 4 25mm dia vents in the front, this matches the Eminence data sheet vent requirement for my chosen speaker (Eminence Basslite CH2010 10") but exceeds the data sheet for internal volume (would be 300x300x200mm) as I liked the idea of a bass-cube...[/quote] Only just noticed this - these DIY posts disappear from the radar very quickly. If you've not started building yet - don't build a cab that's a cube. It's the worst possible shape. The ideal is to have each dimension different to prevent standing waves that will come out through the cone and colour your sound. Also, don't use four 1-inch ports. Just use one.

There's a useful comparison of some P-bass pickups here: [url="http://www.atkinsonbasses.com/multimedia"]http://www.atkinsonbasses.com/multimedia[/url]. The GFS ones certainly sound good (no Wizards though, and no Fralins).

You don't really need a 2-way crossover, although if you're prepared to pay for one it won't do any harm - it will just make the wiring more complicated. Most cabs don't use anything on the bass drivers; they just filter the low frequencies out of the horn. A capacitor and small inductor will do it, but you need to know the recommended crossover frequency and impedance of the horn to work out the correct values.

No free lunch needed. You are sacrificing the high frequences on axis to bring them closer in level to the high frequencies off axis. Quasi constant directivity. This is a really neat idea, provided free of charge to the guitar playing community and very nicely documented. I wish I'd thought of it - don't you Bill?

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1317890' date='Jul 27 2011, 02:16 AM']Hi there dude how would I wire it in like this?[/quote] Two wires from your input into the crossover and from there into your horn. The crossover is in parallel with your main drivers.

I don't know whether to laugh or cry.....

[quote name='Marvin' post='1318382' date='Jul 27 2011, 03:52 PM']Are you suggesting I'm just a sheep?[/quote] Now you're putting words in my mouth :-)

[quote name='Marvin' post='1317459' date='Jul 26 2011, 06:57 PM']You seem to be trying to say that Bill and Alex are peddling snake oil, for want of a better analogy.[/quote] You're putting words into his mouth, Marvin. What he is saying IMO is that you should think for yourself and not be a sheep. Self-styled gurus are often not quite what they appear to be. To quote Socrates: To find yourself, think for yourself.

I'd advise you to what I did and download a free program called Best Practice which allows you to play back the MP3s at a slower speed without altering the pitch. Some of the Major's pieces are much too fast for amateurs like me.

OK then. Please enlighten us and explain why blocking off the hole would help.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1316899' date='Jul 26 2011, 12:31 PM']Think the point is it doesn't work the way you think it works.[/quote] It's quite clear how it works. There's a link on the page Lawrence gave that takes you straight to the designer's description. Blocking up the hole is nonsense.

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='1316247' date='Jul 25 2011, 08:56 PM']but a neater solution (IMO) is Jay Mitchell's 'foam donut' [url="http://www.stratopastor.org.uk/strato/amps/prii/speaker/foamdonut/foamdonut.html"]http://www.stratopastor.org.uk/strato/amps.../foamdonut.html[/url][/quote] I've never seen that before, but it's very clever. And it's properly documented with measurements. Excellent.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1316462' date='Jul 25 2011, 11:22 PM']I think you'd find adding a beam blocker to the hole in that foam thingamajig would get a better result than either alone.[/quote] The hole in the foam is an integral part of the design. If you block it up with a beam blocker it won't work properly. Have you read the description?

[quote name='Marvin' post='1316071' date='Jul 25 2011, 06:41 PM']Most mass manufactured cabs are simply constructed boxes with drivers in them with little or no acoustic engineering involved in it's design.[/quote] Most commercial bass cabs I've seen are reasonably well designed. I agree that there is a tendency to cut corners to get the price down. It has to be said, however, that very little acoustic engineering is actually required to knock together a bass guitar cab. The real engineering has been done by the driver manufacturer. This is why anybody who can use a saw and and screw together a simple box can build one and it will work. The hardest part is getting the box to look pro.

Most times, 'not flash' is what the music needs. I like the Rhythm Kings - a bunch of great musicians.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1316026' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:54 PM']The top of the cab will be higher if it is stacked vertically, that is a bunch of the point.[/quote] I agree that getting the cab to a height where you can here it properly is what matters. When you've got that sorted, it is a matter of personal preference what speaker configuration you use.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1315993' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:33 PM']No, Fender didn't make tall stacks, they made short combos, and guitartists tend to sit on them or stand in front of them, so all the top end misses them and icepicks anyone in front..[/quote] Sorry, I was too cryptic. When standing in front of and above a speaker, a guitarist will hear more and smoother mids and highs when the speakers are side by side than when they are vertical, assuming the top of each cab is positioned at the same height.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1315981' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:27 PM']I think audience on axis, but guitard's ears off axis is usually the problem scenario.[/quote] That would be one vote for Leo Fender then.

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='1315972' date='Jul 25 2011, 05:23 PM']If one is out there amid the audience and one can perceive it then, yes, it might indeed be obvious.[/quote] This is a solution looking for a problem. Have you ever been in an audience and not been able to hear the guitar?

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1315830' date='Jul 25 2011, 03:31 PM']It has speakers crossfired and pointing upward. Not like Fenders, but retaining the width requirement to fit amplifiers. Fender ha the option of making amps that fit, and chose not to.[/quote] Stands that raise and tilt guitar speakers have been available certainly since the 1960s. I imagine Fender offered them; Vox certainly did. Angled cabs have also been available since the 1960s. What difference do you think crossfiring drivers make?

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1315485' date='Jul 25 2011, 10:33 AM']He can just stick it on it's side.[/quote] He'd probably be tempted to stick it somewhere else. You have to take Bill's contributions on here with a pinch of salt. One of his (many) regular lines is that Leo Fender didn't know how to design speakers and that guitar drivers should be stacked vertically. But go to his site and look at the guitar cab design that he is flogging for 15 dollars.

[quote name='mart' post='1312968' date='Jul 22 2011, 04:51 PM']It does depend a lot on what your current tuning pegs are. In my case the factory-fitted ones weigh about 57g each. Hipshot say their Ultralites are 52g, making for an immense saving of, ooh, 20g across the 4 pegs. However, some folk who have fitted Ultralites say they weigh less - around 42-44g. Based on that, a set of 4 might save me 60g, i.e., near as dammit, one tuner.[/quote] Those tuners are unusually light to start with - so I get your point.

Layers of tissue are great for cone splits, but with a surround you might like to try superglue - just a minimum amount.