stevie

If the TC amps work with 3 x TC 8-ohm cabs, there is no reason why they shouldn't work with 3 of anybody's 8-ohm cabs as long as they adhere to accepted specification standards. Amplifier manufacturers don't have to test everybody's cabs to provide a minimum load impedance. This is a complete red herring dreamt up by TC's department of propaganda and disinformation, aka the marketing department. Mark's test showed that the amp is likely to be 2-ohm-capable. It would certainly be useful to have the correct information from the manufacturer.

There was a thread about this a while back. This is marketing guff and I'd like to see somebody prove otherwise. If the amps are 2- or 3-ohm capable, TC should say so. Instead, they make their customers think they are doing something "clever" with their cabs but are in fact simply misleading them to flog them more product. I have a TC amp, but this lack of transparency (ahem!) does not endear me to the company. By the way, three 8-ohm cabs isn't 2 ohms, although a member here has confirmed that the amp handles a 2-ohm load OK.

[quote name='whizzzy' post='1249928' date='May 30 2011, 09:39 AM']Another thing to check is the flexible wiring between the chassis of the speaker and the cone.[/quote] Also check the joint between the leadout wires and the cone. I had the same problem with the same Ashdown (Sica) driver and had cut the cone to bits before I discovered exactly where the problem was. It's very difficult to locate either aurally of visually but it creates a terrible buzz/rattle. Put a little bit of Blue Tac over the joint to see if it helps.

[quote name='oldslapper' post='1255279' date='Jun 3 2011, 12:01 PM']It looks like if you want equity of volume with bridge and neck, you have to go active?[/quote] Not really. As others have said, you just need a loud bridge pickup. Even the Musicman pickup is quieter than the P-Bass one when it's installed in the 'bridge' position. I found that wiring the MM in series makes for a more balanced pairing and IMO works better when the two pickups are used together.

I had a Jazz along with the P-Bass pu in my Yamaha. No matter what I did, it always sounded thin, and it never added anything to the P-Bass sound. The best combination I had was a Duncan Vintage P-Bass pickup and a quarter pounder Jazz. At least the volume was similar when I switched from one to the other. I decided to bite the bullet and put a Duncan Musicman humbucker in there and I'm very happy with the result. I get the Musicman "tone", although it needs a little bass boost used on its own compared with the P-Bass pu. The combination of P-Bass and MM is very nice too. Next time I'm up your way, John, I can pop in and you can try it. I know people rave about John East preamps, but it's only a tone control after all. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it does anything that a half decent graphic can't do.

[quote name='silddx' post='1250468' date='May 30 2011, 04:49 PM']No, I didn't. I meant 0.5mm [/quote] Doh! I preferred it when they used rods and perches.

I watched it and allowed my 12-year old daughter to watch it. I think she enjoyed the music, although it's a bit difficult to tell at that age. She stayed to the end anyway. Like Bilbo, I found the programme quite moving. Particularly the bit where you were made aware that Freddy never complained at the end and was genuinely concerned about how his condition was affecting others. The band came across as genuine and level headed - in contrast to many of the empty-headed noodles that populate today's pop charts. They are (were) also extremely talented within their own genre as songwriters and musicians.

[quote name='silddx' post='1248457' date='May 28 2011, 05:34 PM']Fret the low string at the first fret, use a capo if you've got one. at the same time fret the same string at the twelfth fret. there should be a tiny gap between the string and the 6th, 7th and 8th frets. If it's more than about 0.5m you could tighten your truss rod a 8th of a turn at a time until the gap is tiny.[/quote] I think you mean 0.5cm.

That's a shame. But it's a generous offer that I'm sure someone will take up.

If the K140 works, I'd appreciate it.

So what did you do with it?

The 2226 is a classic - a genuine, no-nonsense, high quality speaker. It was considered to be the most advanced 15" driver in the 1990s, was used by many of the big names in the PA business, and is still sought after by pro PA specialists today. The JBL has always been too expensive for use in bass guitar cabs, but that does not mean it won't work. I agree with Alex that it needs a midrange driver, but so ideally does every other 15" speaker. In pro PA systems it is normally used up to 300/400 Hz but JBL used it in systems up to 1k and it has an on-axis response flat to 2k, which is good enough for those who don't bother with a tweeter. Strictly speaking, 600W AES is not quite the same as 600W rms, but I wouldn't worry too much about the difference. It has a 4" coil, good cooling, and will handle lots of power. It was designed to be used in a reflex cab and JBL provides design info if you want to look for it. 100 litres is about right. If you prefer not to roll your own you could commandeer a Trace 1153, an ABM 15" cab (even better) and many more, and just replace the OEM driver. I wish I had your kind of luck

Yes, I've been looking too. And for a Musicman surround. I'd be interested to learn of an inexpensive source.

[quote name='Major-Minor' post='1232799' date='May 16 2011, 10:34 AM']For this version only, there is a 2 bar drum count on the mp3, as the tempo is quite swift.[/quote] You're not kidding. How anybody can read that fast is beyond me.

I can't comment on those ones but I have fitted the Hipshots and agree that lightweight is the way to go, as it makes for a better balanced bass.

It's OK - I found a couple posted by some nice people on the interweb.

Does anyone have a transcription or a midi file?

I wish people would stop recommending WinISD on here. It's a tool, but like any tool, unless you know what you're trying to achieve with it, it will give you a false sense of security. I don't need WinISD to tell me that the box size is much too big and the drivers are useless for bass guitar. I'm not surprised it sounds rubbish. Sell the drivers and get some proper ones. Sorry if that's not what you want to hear. Incidentally, I doubt very much if your drivers have an xmax of 10mm because they are midrange drivers, which don't need a large xmax.