stevie

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1280965' date='Jun 24 2011, 01:35 PM']That is much less expensive than I was anticipating.[/quote] The reviews are a bit mixed though.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='1280547' date='Jun 24 2011, 09:24 AM']Just bought a 250W Hartke VX 2x10 + horn from a basschat member which would be handy to position just behind the head of our drummer to help him keep time.[/quote] Isn't that the guy who's supposed to help everyone else keep time?

[quote name='Mikefwlr' post='1280931' date='Jun 24 2011, 01:13 PM']EA seem quite secretive about the specs for their cusdtom drivers. Guess i could measure the impedance with a multimeter (but i don't have one), anyone know the specs of these woofers?[/quote] That's because they like charging £150 a driver for replacements. Measuring the impedance won't get you very far, I'm afraid. If you want to send me one before they both die completely, I'll measure the T/S parameters for you.

If you have any old sleeping bags or duvets you don't need, take the filling out and use that. It's the same stuff.

The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon differ in their sizes and are outstanding on their own but make an even better wine when combined. The Cabernet Sauvignon is smaller but it gives body to the mixture while the Merlot, on the other hand, lightens the Cabernet. The Cabernet Merlot blend has a very rich scent that has the touches of black currant, dark berry with a little kick of mint, eucalyptus, chocolate and subtle oak. This wine mixture is best produced in a cool climate and its taste depicts the strength and richness of the Cabernet that is blended and is softened by the Merlot wine that makes it all the more elegant. The lightness of Merlot wine blends well with the strength and body of Cabernets that bring about quite a rich and complex wine mixture. The combination of their differences in terms of quality, taste and other characteristics seem to make the Cabernet Merlot wine such an interesting wine to try and check out. This wine pairs well with many types of cuisines among of which are red meat, pork, poultry, and pasta with a rich and thick sauce.

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='1263233' date='Jun 9 2011, 08:40 PM']All this stuff about not mixing drivers is just an old wives tale. The 'character' of a speaker is largely about frequency irregularities asnd if you mix drivers these are not likely to coincide so you might lose some character, but some characters do need a little turning down at times. There are problems with any multi driver set up too but this is as true of identical drvers as differing ones. Some combinations work and some don't and some of us like a coloured sound and some don't. You have to listen to judge whether a particular combination will work for you.[/quote] +1 - especially the bit about multi driver setups being flawed. But if you're going to do it, this is a sensible way of approaching it.

The Sidewinders were quite good speakers in their day. They were introduced in the mid 1980s and were based on Electrovoice designs. You should be able to pick one up on eBay for not very much money, but you'll probably have to wait a while for one to appear. Still, if you follow Moos3h's advice I'm sure you'll be fine. If you would like someone to double check the technical aspects of the design, post the internal dimensions of the cab (to get the internal volume) and the dimensions of the ports (internal diameter and length). But it certainly looks like a fairly standard box and you should be perfectly OK fitting a pair of Kappalite 15s in there. As these seem to be be quite expensive now, it might also be worth looking at the equivalent B&C or BMS, which will sound better if you don't mind investing a bit more dosh.

Couldn't you just use a second lead with terminals 1 and 2 bridged when you use the TC? I assume that the the tweeter still has the high pass passive crossover in place. As long as you mark each cable, that should do it - and it has the advantage of being simple to implement.

If the TC amps work with 3 x TC 8-ohm cabs, there is no reason why they shouldn't work with 3 of anybody's 8-ohm cabs as long as they adhere to accepted specification standards. Amplifier manufacturers don't have to test everybody's cabs to provide a minimum load impedance. This is a complete red herring dreamt up by TC's department of propaganda and disinformation, aka the marketing department. Mark's test showed that the amp is likely to be 2-ohm-capable. It would certainly be useful to have the correct information from the manufacturer.

There was a thread about this a while back. This is marketing guff and I'd like to see somebody prove otherwise. If the amps are 2- or 3-ohm capable, TC should say so. Instead, they make their customers think they are doing something "clever" with their cabs but are in fact simply misleading them to flog them more product. I have a TC amp, but this lack of transparency (ahem!) does not endear me to the company. By the way, three 8-ohm cabs isn't 2 ohms, although a member here has confirmed that the amp handles a 2-ohm load OK.

[quote name='whizzzy' post='1249928' date='May 30 2011, 09:39 AM']Another thing to check is the flexible wiring between the chassis of the speaker and the cone.[/quote] Also check the joint between the leadout wires and the cone. I had the same problem with the same Ashdown (Sica) driver and had cut the cone to bits before I discovered exactly where the problem was. It's very difficult to locate either aurally of visually but it creates a terrible buzz/rattle. Put a little bit of Blue Tac over the joint to see if it helps.

[quote name='oldslapper' post='1255279' date='Jun 3 2011, 12:01 PM']It looks like if you want equity of volume with bridge and neck, you have to go active?[/quote] Not really. As others have said, you just need a loud bridge pickup. Even the Musicman pickup is quieter than the P-Bass one when it's installed in the 'bridge' position. I found that wiring the MM in series makes for a more balanced pairing and IMO works better when the two pickups are used together.

I had a Jazz along with the P-Bass pu in my Yamaha. No matter what I did, it always sounded thin, and it never added anything to the P-Bass sound. The best combination I had was a Duncan Vintage P-Bass pickup and a quarter pounder Jazz. At least the volume was similar when I switched from one to the other. I decided to bite the bullet and put a Duncan Musicman humbucker in there and I'm very happy with the result. I get the Musicman "tone", although it needs a little bass boost used on its own compared with the P-Bass pu. The combination of P-Bass and MM is very nice too. Next time I'm up your way, John, I can pop in and you can try it. I know people rave about John East preamps, but it's only a tone control after all. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it does anything that a half decent graphic can't do.

[quote name='silddx' post='1250468' date='May 30 2011, 04:49 PM']No, I didn't. I meant 0.5mm [/quote] Doh! I preferred it when they used rods and perches.

I watched it and allowed my 12-year old daughter to watch it. I think she enjoyed the music, although it's a bit difficult to tell at that age. She stayed to the end anyway. Like Bilbo, I found the programme quite moving. Particularly the bit where you were made aware that Freddy never complained at the end and was genuinely concerned about how his condition was affecting others. The band came across as genuine and level headed - in contrast to many of the empty-headed noodles that populate today's pop charts. They are (were) also extremely talented within their own genre as songwriters and musicians.

[quote name='silddx' post='1248457' date='May 28 2011, 05:34 PM']Fret the low string at the first fret, use a capo if you've got one. at the same time fret the same string at the twelfth fret. there should be a tiny gap between the string and the 6th, 7th and 8th frets. If it's more than about 0.5m you could tighten your truss rod a 8th of a turn at a time until the gap is tiny.[/quote] I think you mean 0.5cm.

That's a shame. But it's a generous offer that I'm sure someone will take up.

If the K140 works, I'd appreciate it.

So what did you do with it?

The 2226 is a classic - a genuine, no-nonsense, high quality speaker. It was considered to be the most advanced 15" driver in the 1990s, was used by many of the big names in the PA business, and is still sought after by pro PA specialists today. The JBL has always been too expensive for use in bass guitar cabs, but that does not mean it won't work. I agree with Alex that it needs a midrange driver, but so ideally does every other 15" speaker. In pro PA systems it is normally used up to 300/400 Hz but JBL used it in systems up to 1k and it has an on-axis response flat to 2k, which is good enough for those who don't bother with a tweeter. Strictly speaking, 600W AES is not quite the same as 600W rms, but I wouldn't worry too much about the difference. It has a 4" coil, good cooling, and will handle lots of power. It was designed to be used in a reflex cab and JBL provides design info if you want to look for it. 100 litres is about right. If you prefer not to roll your own you could commandeer a Trace 1153, an ABM 15" cab (even better) and many more, and just replace the OEM driver. I wish I had your kind of luck