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Everything posted by stevie
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I am selling a sunburst Vintage EST96AF Musicman Stingray copy – and a very good copy it is. It’s brand new with just a few tiny scratches on the scratchpate. Otherwise, the chrome is gleaming and the paintwork immaculate. This is the 3-band active version with Wilkinson hardware and pickup. The bass has been set up very well: it has a low action with no dead spots or other issues. I'd say it is slightly below average weight for a bass and the neck is fast and not too chunky. It is perfectly balanced with (unlike most other basses I've played) absolutely no neck dive. I‘ll supply a copy of my original receipt, which will give you a 12-month warranty (give or take a week). It comes complete with the original cardboard box and allen keys. Collection from Dorchester is preferred, of course, but I’m happy to pack it up for your carrier. I can supply a beat-up but functional hardcase for a tenner if you’d prefer. Retail on these is £300+ and the lowest Buy-it-Now eBay price I’ve seen is £190. It’s yours for £100 and I will throw in a brand new set of d’Addario roundwounds. This could be an ideal Christmas present for someone. [url="http://www.musicradar.com/tuition/guitars/10-best-bass-guitars-under-300-226841"]http://www.musicradar.com/tuition/guitars/...nder-300-226841[/url]
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[quote name='Delberthot' post='1013372' date='Nov 5 2010, 02:50 PM']They've pulled the figures out of their ass[/quote] Arse is spelled a-r-s-e.
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[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1012256' date='Nov 4 2010, 04:20 PM']No. There isn't enough difference in the response of the two cabs to justify it.[/quote] Yes. Because you're likely to blow your amplifier up if you don't. You could try a 47uF bipolar cap in series with the top cab, which should maintain the system impedance at 4 ohms. Pm me your info and I'll send you one. No guarantees, as you really need measuring equipment to do this properly.
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[quote name='BlueHelmet' post='1007540' date='Oct 31 2010, 04:41 PM'](Language question: do you use "a tad" in this context? I'm not a native speaker ..)[/quote] Yes, that's correct idiomatic usage.
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Good man! It's always handy to have a can of switch cleaner around. It will last for decades and you never know when you'll need it next.
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This sounds like a dirty pot, which is a very common problem indeed. It's easy enough to fix yourself if you buy a can of switch cleaner like Servisol and follow the instructions. If that fails, which is unlikely IMO, fit a new pot. That's a relatively easy DIY job, too, if you are handy with a soldering iron.
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[quote name='Dropzone' post='1008719' date='Nov 1 2010, 05:03 PM']Do you (or any of the chatters?) know if it would work with a Mark Bass Jeff Berlin Combo? I don't understand all this ohmage stuff? If so I'll have it. Thanks Mike[/quote] Mike, it looks like the combo takes an additional 8-ohm speaker (which is the usual way of things) - so it would do. Unfortunately, another canny buyer has just pm'd me to say he'll have it. I'm going to put 'on hold' on the thread. In the unlikely event that the sale does not go through, I'll let you know.
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[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1008158' date='Nov 1 2010, 08:57 AM']I had a word with myself and my idea was to double it up with my midget however, as the midget is rated for a lot more than 300w, this cab would start to fart before the midget would. However which 2x12 is it?[/quote] This cab should keep up with the Midget, because the xmax is similar and the cone area is larger. The amount of air moved is usually the limiting factor rather than thermal power handling. However, the only way to tell for certain would be to try it in practice. The EBS is here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=108820"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=108820[/url]
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[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1007474' date='Oct 31 2010, 03:45 PM']Could you get a quote?[/quote] Sure. It would be £10 for delivery with UPS insured up to £50. Extra insurance costs four or five pounds more if you want it. For something as sturdy as this it's probably not worth it - but it's your call.
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This was originally a Laney 2 x 10” cabinet but I have spent many hours upgrading it. The cab itself is now well braced and fitted with BAF wadding. It is rear ported (correctly tuned) and fitted with a Speakon input rather than the original jacks. I’ve replaced the original drivers with two Volt model SB250, which is an OEM version of the BM251.3, details of which you will find on the Volt website: [url="http://www.voltloudspeakers.co.uk/"]http://www.voltloudspeakers.co.uk/[/url]. This is a very expensive driver, virtually the same (apart from the surround) as this one, which sells for £161 (each) from Wilmslow Audio: [url="http://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/b2508-486-p.asp"]http://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/b2508-486-p.asp[/url] The Laney cabinet is very compact for a 2 x 10. Dimensions: 59 x 34 x 35 (W x H x D). I would estimate the weight at around 18 - 20kg. The Laney badge is no longer on the grille, but I can supply it separately for you to fit. Power handling is 300 watts, but I have never been able to get it anywhere near max. It works fine on its own and delivers plenty of low end but also ideal for stacking on top of a 15" cab, as it is 8 ohms.
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[u]EBS 212 Proline Bass Cabinet[/u] I’m selling my EBS 212 Proline cab, as I now using two separate single 12s. This is a great-sounding cab built with 13-ply Finnish birch and specs as follows: 69 x 58 x 44cm (H x W x D) Weight 29kg Power rating 600W Impedance 8 ohms. Speakon input Titanium super tweeter More info here: Bass Centre: [url="http://www.basscentre.com/bass-cabs/ebs-212-proline-bass-cabinet.html"]http://www.basscentre.com/bass-cabs/ebs-21...ss-cabinet.html[/url] EBS website here (click on Products/Cabinets): [url="http://www.bass.se/"]http://www.bass.se/[/url] I have upgraded the cab from 400 to 600W with a pair of [i]brand new 300W Celestion neodymium drivers[/i]. The Celestions, which come with a manufacturer’s warranty, not only outperform the originals – they also weigh less and offer a more useable 8 ohms total impedance allowing you to add an additional cab at any time. Talk to me if you would prefer a 4 ohm cab or one with original spec drivers (for less money, of course). Sorry for the stock photo. The cab is in excellent condition with only the plastic corners showing signs of wear. I’ll try to get a picture up some time soon. I’d prefer collection for the time being, although I’ll deliver/meet anywhere within a half an hour’s drive from Dorchester. Although cash is king, I could be interested in swapping for a lightweight amp, Genz Benz, MarkBass or similar (but not Ashdown) or possibly a relatively light 4-string bass with a slim neck.
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Making your own is always the best option if you are capable. Use Neutrik plugs and a pro quality instrument cable. If you have any doubts, leave it to a pro like OBBM.
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[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1002248' date='Oct 27 2010, 11:46 AM']I think that there is a vast difference in the upper-mids and specific brightness between the brands [b]IMHO[/b]*[/quote] I suppose that depends what you mean by vast. Here's a nice Youtube comparison of three different flatwounds. The differences are certainly there on those three brands. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDZJMKfgaCk"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDZJMKfgaCk[/url]
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I've only used two brands of flats. I had Ernie Balls on first - a used set supplied by a kind Basschat member. I then bought myself a set of TIs. When I had fitted two of the TI strings, I compared them. I have to say, they sounded identical. I couldn't tell that I had two different brands of string fitted. Just one observation FWIW.
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What do you mean by speaker's "control panel"? The input panel? I'm not sure why a new one would be needed. Can't it be retightened and maybe fitted with some new foam gasket?
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This is PR. It has nothing to do with anything. He looks like somebody's mother.
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Best soldering iron/solder for use in wiring a bass
stevie replied to krispn's topic in Repairs and Technical
[quote name='KiOgon' post='989987' date='Oct 16 2010, 10:12 AM']If you are investing in a tool to do all & do it well + last for years, an investment, if you are going to get the use out of it, then get a Weller temperature controlled iron with interchangeable tips for different jobs.[/quote] I've owned one of those myself for many years and agree they are excellent. You can get a wide variety of tips and spare parts are easily available. They're not exactly cheap for once-in-a-blue-moon use though. -
Best soldering iron/solder for use in wiring a bass
stevie replied to krispn's topic in Repairs and Technical
Anything under 40 watts and you will not have enough heat on some jobs. As for solder, some of the generic brands can be horrible and it's probably worth going for a well known brand. I can't advise on the composition, as I'm still using up my stocks of leaded. -
Best courier to send lightweight bass cabinet
stevie replied to sockdeluxe_mikey's topic in General Discussion
The big difference in the carriers is 1. who smashes stuff up and who doesn't and 2. who sorts it out when things get damaged. I've had good experience with UPS (via Interparcel) but whenever I send anything valuable I always overpack it and take photos of the packing. It doesn't take long, but that way, when the carrier rejects your insurance claim for inadequate packaging (which is their first port of call), you have evidence to the contrary. Oh, and warn the recipient to check for external damage before signing. That's another good way to wave goodbye to your insurance claim. -
SOLD and PLEASE DELETE
stevie replied to mybass's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
These are GREAT pickups. They are high output yet retain the tone of the Jazz Bass - something that passive hot pickups cannot do. Although the battery lasts for several years, the pickups can be used passively in an emergency; they are then a bit quieter than a normal Jazz pickup. If I had a Jazz I'd snap them up at this price, which is an amazing bargain.