stevie

[quote name='Dubs' post='885550' date='Jul 4 2010, 04:31 PM'] bargain! How can the speakers cost more than the complete cab?![/quote] Buying power plus selling directly to the public. It's an unbeatable deal as long as the logo is removable.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='885559' date='Jul 4 2010, 04:58 PM']Anyone know where I can get these in UK > [url="http://www.reliablehardware.com/mediumrecessedtiltcasterhousingblack.aspx"]http://www.reliablehardware.com/mediumrece...usingblack.aspx[/url][/quote] That looks like an Adam Hall wheel. The mesh looks like some kind of fencing product but I've no idea where you can get it from. EBS use some neat fencing wire for their grilles that looks even nicer.

Great stuff - thanks for pointing it out.

One of the places where buzzing can occur is at the point where the leadout wires come out of the cone. It happened to me once and it was impossible to tell where the noise was coming from. There will be some kind of glue there already. Just put a generous blob of silicon on the spot and let it dry. Worth a punt, I think, if you have some silicon sealant handy.

[quote name='OldGit' post='882268' date='Jun 30 2010, 06:46 PM']We covered a very similar situation for stevie a while back[/quote] I found the advice in that thread very useful indeed. I'd recommend you also get hold of the Blues Bass book by Ed Friedland, which some of the guys recommended on that thread. It's all in there, including transcriptions of all the standards you'll need to know, together with backing tracks to practice with. Great book! I'll post a review when I get a minute. The book and CD cost me less than £7 delivered from Amazon. By the way, I got the gig!

[quote name='Conan' post='870479' date='Jun 18 2010, 08:27 AM']The cabs, if anything, are TOO snappy and biting as I can't control the tweeters, but maybe that's down to my basses and fingers...[/quote] You can reduce the output of your tweeter by putting some cotton wool in the horn - the more cotton wool, the greater the attenuation. When you've reached a level you're happy with, use a dab of glue or some double sided tape to make the tweak semi-permanent. It's not the most sophisticated solution to a shrieking horn, but it's quick and easy - and effective.

[quote name='Marky L' post='824708' date='May 1 2010, 11:49 AM']Probs about to sell my two Ashdown mini cabs so I couls haul 'em along too if anyone might be interested.[/quote] I could be interested in your Mini 15 - if you still have it and if it's cheap. If not, I'll be at the bash anyway.

Getting oomph is directly related to minimizing losses in your system. You will need a low distortion amp with a stiff power supply that can keep supplying hefty transients without collapsing. You'll also need a stiff speaker cabinet, heavily braced and a speaker chassis with a high BL (i.e. a generous magnet to cone ratio), low distortion and breakup. All the systems with 'slam' that I've heard have shared these characteristics. It's easier to get with horn loading, which is another way of minimizing system losses. At the front end (though I wouldn't swear to it) I've found that pickups with larger magnets (1/4 pounders and Stingray type) tend to have more oomph. But the secret is a punchy amp and a very stiff cabinet containing a high quality speaker. IMO, of course.

[quote name='Pete Academy' post='866726' date='Jun 14 2010, 08:49 AM']Leech were around in the early 80s, made near Manchester, so I recall. That's definitely a guitar amp.[/quote] Leech was a cabinet manufacturer based in Salford. They made wooden cabinets under contract for a lot of the companies in the music business. They may have started up in the 1970s but, sadly, went into liquidation in the 1990s. They sold a range of amps under their own brand for a period in the 1980s but these weren't particularly successful. That's probably no reflection on the product and more to do with their marketing. One of their early employees was Joe Olenski, who left and started Ohm.

[quote name='Sean' post='867351' date='Jun 14 2010, 07:45 PM']Follow this link for details [url="http://www.gearslutz.com/board/low-end-theory/434385-sony-f-99a-stereo-microphone.html"]http://www.gearslutz.com/board/low-end-the...microphone.html[/url] It has jack outputs (two mono). £3 minimum donation to Basschat.[/quote] This is an early stereo condenser mic - 1970s or 80s, I think. It takes a couple of C cells. I made some recordings with one quite a long time ago and was amazed how good it was. I'm keeping mine. It's true they're not worth much, but hey, they're *vintage* - and they make surprisingly good stereo recordings without any hassle.

[quote name='guylewis' post='864071' date='Jun 11 2010, 09:50 AM']Here's one that I've just finished.[/quote] Very nice job!

[quote name='algmusic' post='862756' date='Jun 9 2010, 11:29 PM']I think the fact no one replied to your comment, might argue it was distasteful. The man is just asking for advice from a supposedly friendly bass forum.[/quote] The reason nobody replied to my remark was that it was just a lighthearted bit of legpulling. Interesting that you felt the urge to reply though.

What does god say you should buy?

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='856273' date='Jun 3 2010, 04:53 PM']Used to re manufacture them [/quote] You mean ...... you used to put the Jet in Jet Tec?

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='856176' date='Jun 3 2010, 02:58 PM']Is it sad that I know the code is 98A?[/quote] We all walk around with useless bits of information in our heads, Wayne. I dare say the code 98A was a useful piece of knowledge during a previous life.

INK CARTRIDGES for Canon printers Pixma IP1000/1500/2000 and others. One Tesco own brand, one Morrisons own brand. Black BCI-24BK and BCI-24c. The black has been opened and immediately resealed. The colour one is new and unopened. Send me a couple of quid for postage and they're yours. TONER, made by Jet Tec, for a Hewlett Packard laser printer model 4 Plus. 5,000 page capacity, if memory serves. According to my information, it also fits: LaserJet 5N 12PPM LaserJet 5Se 12PPM LaserJet 4M Plus 12PPM LaserJet 5 12PPM LaserJet 5M 12PPM LaserJet 4 8PPM LaserJet 4 Plus 12PPM LaserJet 4M 8PPM C2021A LaserJet 4M 8PPM C2037A LaserJet 4 Plus 8PPM C2001A LaserJet 4 8PPM. It printed about 100 pages before the printer packed up, and so is more or less full. It's a few years old and has been sitting here in a bag ever since but it's no good to me without the printer. If you can use it, you're welcome to it.

According to the review in one of the bass mags (the only one that does proper tests, IMO), this amp has a compressor that comes in at 440W into a 4 ohm load. Using the two cabs together will give you a 4-ohm load - and increase the efficiency of your speakers - and should be very loud indeed. I don't think there's any obvious answer here. I'd try substituting another amp to see if the same thing happens.

What impedance is the cab?

Geoff, Your cab seems to be tuned to 40Hz, which will help the B string a bit if you have one. If you want to try a higher tuning, take one of the port tubes out. That will tune the box to about 46Hz. I don't think it will make a lot of difference, personally. Your speakers will handle at least 600 watts cleanly as long as you don't boost the very bottom end.My money's on the amp running out of steam, and I'd suggest you try a bigger amp, if you are can.

I've just looked at the ad and notice he's snapped the circuit board. That's not quite such an easy fix but the bass would work passively. At that price, however, I'd expect a fully working instrument.

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='850459' date='May 28 2010, 05:24 PM']Im wondering if the circuit is goosed, or repairable? If not, surely it could be rewired as a passive bass? I'm talking myself into this...AAAARGH! Bargain - my 80's BB300 is a wicked bass.[/quote] The circuit contains discreet components only - not even an IC. It's accessible and would be very easy to repair. There is an active/passive switch, but the active circuitry is totally transparent.