stevie

[quote name='gelfin' post='806655' date='Apr 14 2010, 10:45 PM']Hi I would just like to say that B-String is one of the best contributers on any bass forum. Well respected on the GK forum and a very helpful and knowledgable guy. He really knows about GK kit.[/quote] B-String: "Yes G-K makes their own drivers".

[quote name='Protium' post='794133' date='Apr 2 2010, 11:43 AM']This stuff is pretty good, and almost identical to what is in my standard Schroeder cab: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?moduleno=97993"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?moduleno=97993[/url][/quote] That's more or less the same as 79-strand - 2.5mm flex. Because of the short lengths involved, you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between this and .75mm cable. But if you're going to do a job, you might as well do it properly and 1.5mm or 2.5mm figure 8 cable is the right stuff for the job and will also cost only pennies more than the thinner stuff. Twin core mains flex is perfectly OK as long as it's thick enough - it doesn't have to be 'speaker cable'. That Maplin cable is a bit pricey, by the way.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='788247' date='Mar 27 2010, 11:19 PM']Time isn't the issue, its a space one. Power is cheap now, you can get a lot of watts for not much money, but space is always a premium. This design means you get a lot of bottom from a small box, the extra speaker takes up space, but not as much as you'd have to increase the size of the box for the same bottom. I'd guess the point is mostly that you can use two standard speakers, rather than getting a very custom heavy one like Acme use.[/quote] An isobaric speaker doesn't save any space, i.e. it is not any more efficient than a normal direct radiator. It trades efficiency for bass extension. The two drive units basically work as one drive unit with a cone of double the mass. That's why you get more bass out of a particular cab. You can pull off exactly the same trick by increasing the weight of the cone - and save yourself the cost and complexity of a second driver. The main drawback is that maximum output is the same as that of a single driver. You'd be better off putting the money into a better quality drive unit.

For bass guitar, isobaric is a waste of time (and the benefits are marginal at best for hi-fi). The second driver effectively adds weight to the speaker cone, which improves the low-end extension and reduces efficiency.

Yeah, but can she play Mustang Sally?

[quote name='jakesbass' post='785573' date='Mar 25 2010, 10:16 AM']This is a really great explanation, most importantly Major I think the examples you give both verbal and musical make it entirely palatable. I really think this is worthy of publication. It would be a fabulous resource for student and tutor alike.[/quote] Totally agree with this.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='784542' date='Mar 24 2010, 11:38 AM']I've put a Quarter Pound SDuncan in mine and I am estatic about the sound[/quote] I agree - it sounds really great!

I've never seen an OBBM cable up close, but I do know that he has a good reputation and doesn't hype his products. He also sells them for a fair price. That's a true professional in my book.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='783139' date='Mar 23 2010, 10:11 AM']You need to raise it more? Have you checked the neck pocket for a shim you could remove?[/quote] No, but I doubt that it has been shimmed because I have plenty of adjustment with the normal Yamaha bridge and with a Gotoh aftermarket one. But I'm right at the limit with the Badass. I'd like to raise the action a tad but I can't because the screws come out the other end. If the grubscrews were just an eighth of an inch longer, I'd be OK.

[quote name='Geejay' post='431978' date='Mar 11 2009, 10:27 PM']I don't have any screws for my Badass II. Any suggestions on what they should be?[/quote] The grub screws on my Badass I are just a tad too short. Does anyone know where I can get longer ones?

There's this, available from Halfords: [url="http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173744_langId_-1_categoryId_165495"]http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...tegoryId_165495[/url] But it probably says 'test a small, hidden area first'.

There are times when I think democracy is not all it's cracked up to be.

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='779766' date='Mar 19 2010, 01:50 PM']Bugera is a Behringer brand name. AFAIK they are the same company.[/quote] Who on earth told them Bugger-a was a clever name?

[quote name='walbassist' post='779867' date='Mar 19 2010, 03:04 PM']The guys at Crown tell me their XLS series are ok at 4 as well, even thought they don't list it on their site![/quote] You have to be careful with this, because an awful lot of 4-ohm bass guitar speakers are actually 3.5 ohms and it can make all the differerence.

You might look at something like a second hand Yamaha P1600 (http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/CDA/ContentDetail/ModelSeriesDetail.html?CNTID=1240&CTID=227600). I saw one going on eBay last week for £95 - just missed it. 460 watts bridged into 4 ohms, but that's at 0.05% distortion. 12kg is not too bad either. Behringer launched a new lightweight range at Namm recently. 1,000 watts, 5kg, £250 - from memory. They look great and are creating a lot of interest, but have yet to hit the shops. I'm not sure I'd risk buying one from an early production batch, though.

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='778385' date='Mar 18 2010, 10:51 AM']The drive unit was/is a Beyma SM212 350W, 98dB sensitivity 45-6000Hz at -6dB. I chose it as it has an excellent excursion figure due to a long voice coil (xmax is 7mm) so it won't run out of bass at high levels.[/quote] I've not seen that one before. It looks really good for the money.

[quote name='Delberthot' post='779298' date='Mar 18 2010, 11:35 PM']don't the pickups come in a box with foam to protect them? I vaguelly remember using that in the past[/quote] That's not firm enough. Cut up an old mouse mat and glue to the required thickness.

[quote name='Mr.T' post='779492' date='Mar 19 2010, 09:49 AM']I bought some of this [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=ADH0721&browsemode=category"]http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=ADH...semode=category[/url] to use as a temporary measure, but it looks awful as I cant get it to sit flat. I was thinking of ironing it under a damp towel.[/quote] I haven't used that particular cloth, but heating with a hairdryer usually tightens up a cloth grille. You could try a frame made out of softwood batten, say half or three-quarter inch inch.

Bought a speaker cab from Si a few days ago. He was very helpful indeed and the transaction went like clockwork. Thanks, Si.

The two times I've got real low-price bargains, the sellers have refused to supply. They usually make up some excuse not to sell. You can't win 'em all, I'm afraid.

[quote name='Mr.T' post='772537' date='Mar 12 2010, 10:36 AM']I have been looking into what type of grilles to fit onto my homemade cabs, when... I noticed that some grille cloths are advertised as 'acoustically transparent'. This led me to wonder how much a punched steel grille affects the sound of the average bass cab? Some steel grilles are listed as being 40% free air, so this must have an affect.[/quote] I did some tests on punched metal grilles and found that they caused a a very slight reduction in HF. They won't affect bass guitar frequencies at all, although it makes sense to go for the more open ones. A wooden frame and cloth grille is lighter than a full punched steel type.

>Check out these videos by KJung on Talkbass.... Although he says that all the amps are flat, I think he must mean that all the tone controls are set to zero, because the only one that sounds flat to me is the TC. The Mark Bass sounds mildly scooped with some HF lift and a depressed LF. The Puma sounds as if there is an excess of lower mids. Depends on the cab, of course, and I'm assuming that the Bergantino is relatively uncoloured.