stevie

[quote name='walbassist' post='741685' date='Feb 11 2010, 07:13 AM']Thanks for that Stevie. Yes, had a pair years ago and these were so cheap I just figured they'd be good to have around. Not using the controller though; all it was in reality was a fixed eq and they sound perfectly good without it. So what do you reckon power-wise, 500 watts into each?[/quote] They're certainly lightweight and sound better than they have a right to. If they were mine, I'd be guided by the manufacturers specs: 250 watts per channel into 8 ohms or 500 watts into 4 ohms if you run them mono. I'd probably add a 25 percent margin to make sure the amps are never driven into clipping. Back in the days when these speakers were the height of fashion, 500 watts was enormous. There are probably quite a few people on here using these for PA. If you change the thread heading to Bose 802 advice wanted (or something), you might attract their attention and get an opinion from someone with more up-to-date experience than me. Just a thought.

I haven't used those for yonks, but I can tell you that they soak up the power because of the heavy bass boost applied by the controller thingie. Bose used to sell a matching power amp that was a really heavy beast. You'll certainly need more than just a few hundred watts.

[quote name='silddx' post='733013' date='Feb 2 2010, 02:56 PM']Brahn Shoes[/quote] I ask yer....

[quote name='Tactician' post='741458' date='Feb 10 2010, 09:03 PM']Err. OK I just modelled it up - without the horn - that could add something like 3-5db - it would be 122db - so there you go - not far out. But an even smamler box of some 2000 cu inches. About 14" cube external dimensions. I'd estimate that would wiegh in at less than 20 lbs - the speaker is just over 7lbs of this.[/quote] Perhaps you could go back to your model and ask it how close to 130dB your recommended system would be at 40Hz, or low E.

[quote name='Tactician' post='740435' date='Feb 9 2010, 10:32 PM']I think it would have to be a cab with a 3012HO and front horn. So that would be about a 21" cube. And a nice little 300 watt into 8ohm head amp - a MAG 600 would do that job. You'd chuck out about 130 dbs with that pair.[/quote] In your dreams.

Geoff, coming at this issue from a different angle, you might like to play around with eq on your Eminence cab because I think it's highly likely you could get the sound you are currently getting from your 2 x 15 simply by eq'ing the bottom end of your smaller cab and using it on its own. If it's the Kappalite 3015 (not LF) you've got, it won't take a huge amount of bass boost, but you say you don't play that loud anyway. If it works for you, it could save you having to hump two cabs to your gigs. Just a thought.

Cloth grilles are normally fixed to a wooden frame and fixed to the front baffle with Velcro. Carefully levering with a flat screwdriver or something similar will normally remove it. Before replying, I waited for someone to answer who has actually done it, as I have no personal experience of this cab. However, someone will surely now come along and tell me how wrong I am.

[quote name='Marky L' post='739104' date='Feb 8 2010, 04:49 PM']I have been reasonably happy with the 1x15 & 4x8 combination, typical rock style pub gigs, except I have always felt I don't quite get the projection of sound out front. So as an interim option, what do you think, 2x10 and 4x8 together?[/quote] As long as the 2 x 10 extends as low as your 15, I can't see that there is any difference in theory between a 15" with a 4 x 8" and a 2 x 10" with a 4 x 8". The Mini 15 doesn't go hugely low in the bass anyway.

Bought a bridge from Paul. Easy, smooth transaction. Thanks.

[quote name='2x18' post='734496' date='Feb 3 2010, 09:03 PM']They are both quite solid and chunky, well made and similar sounding, but I prefer the looks of the Gotoh! I have a Badass 2 on my Geddy Lee and I have the 201 on another Jazz and also on a Precision. ( + The Gotoh is also cheaper, which is very important to us Yorkshiremen )[/quote] Thanks for that, Will. It's going to be an interesting comparison when I get around to it.

[quote name='2x18' post='734107' date='Feb 3 2010, 02:51 PM']I personally prefer the Gotoh 201 to the Badass 2 for my Fender Jazz and P-Basses[/quote] Why's that? I've got a Gotoh 201 fitted and have just bought a Badass 2 to try it.

[quote name='Conan' post='733080' date='Feb 2 2010, 04:04 PM']It just shows how subjective sound is - in hearing it and in describing it!![/quote] On yer bikes the lot of you! This is growl, and I don't think you can get anywhere near it with a Jazz: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StP0_zbDIMo"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StP0_zbDIMo[/url] Correction: Josh's France video, upon reflection, is very growly indeed.

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='731057' date='Jan 31 2010, 08:42 PM']I'm sorry, but that's not true with a normal soldering iron. The wire used on pickup coils is copper, and it won't melt at normal soldering temperatures. The only thing you might do is burn off the lacquer coating if you heat it for a prolonged period (more than the couple of seconds necessary to make a joint).[/quote] I can see why you would say that, Ancient Mariner. Maybe the copper is burning rather than melting, in the same way that iron filings burn at quite a low temperature. Something to do with their surface area to volume ratio. The burning insulation could even help the process along. I really don't know. But I observed it happening some time ago and have always been careful whenever I've worked with pickup wires since. I do know that pickup wire is extremely fine and it wouldn't surprise me if a soldering iron could pump enough energy into the wire to push it to ignition temperature, if only briefly. Still, my advice was based on no more than an observation. I'd go into the workshop and check exactly what happens but that would mean wrecking a perfectly good pickup.

[quote name='mrcrow' post='730823' date='Jan 31 2010, 05:26 PM']be as fast as you can to avoid the heat going further into the bobbin[/quote] I second that. The wire used on pickup coils is so fine that a soldering iron will melt it like a fusewire if it's held on for long.

[quote name='Baxter' post='730975' date='Jan 31 2010, 07:15 PM']Pop Ashdown Mag300 115 combo Didn't replace with another, got a celestion instead.[/quote] We seem to be getting one of these reported every week now.

[quote name='silddx' post='729059' date='Jan 29 2010, 06:54 PM']Just been listening to Stanley Holloway.[/quote] Get me to the church on time?

[quote name='oldslapper' post='728905' date='Jan 29 2010, 04:39 PM']Haha be nice to see the old OHM amp again ...and you Steve, of course!![/quote] Oh, I don't think I'll be bringing that with me - I've got something much more interesting.

I've been toying with the same idea myself. I've got a Jazz pickup behind the P-bass pickup, but it requires extreme tweaking of the eq to get a good sound because its position close to the bridge makes it very middy. If I didn't have 3-band eq on my bass it wouldn't be very usable at all. In theory, fitting a MM with a coil tap switch should give you a Jazz and a MM sound. Unfortunately, the existence of the P-Bass pickup means that you can't fit the MM in the same position as a Stingray. Not sure how much difference that will make. By the way, I had the Nordy pickup and didn't like it at all on my Vintage MM copy. The original Wilkinson pickup (which looks and measures the same as the later OLP pickups) sounded loads better.

Nice to see this being resurrected. I'm definitely up for this.

[quote name='Jateca' post='728564' date='Jan 29 2010, 12:06 PM']I'm going to inspect them properly tomorrow but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I'd guess that I've fried the voice-coil somehow, but how do I tell if this is the case?[/quote] Push the cone in using even pressure all round and listen for the coil scraping behind the dustcap. If you smelled burning, it's likely that the driver is damaged. I've just noticed that MIJ has already suggested this. Still, great minds and all that .....