stevie

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='500868' date='May 29 2009, 01:11 PM']This looks like it'll go cheap anyone near Poole fancy it?[/quote] It went for £125. Yesterday a really nice Ashdown ABM 15" cab went for £50. I think you need to be really careful putting stuff on eBay at the moment, especially when you insist on collection only.

[quote name='jonthebass' post='500676' date='May 29 2009, 11:00 AM']I would highly recommend the SD Classic/Hot Stacks for Jazz to go in your bass with your P pickup. They are really good sounding units and are humbucking p'ups.[/quote] Never tried the Jazz versions of those (I'd like to) but I do know that the Quarter Pounder in the bridge position is quite a good match for a standard output P-bass pickup as far as output is concerned.

Have you considered a Musicman pickup at the bridge? I'm not convinced of the value of a Jazz pickup at the bridge, but if you do go down that route, consider using a hottish Jazz pickup that will give you a similar output to the P-Bass. I don't see any problem with going active (by which I understand having active tone controls on the bass). There will probably be large differences in tone between the three pickups - so you might actually need it. As far as pickup brands are concerned, I think you need to take the advice of your luthier. You're going to get the usual suspects on here pointing you in the direction of their boutique solutions, but you could end up forking out hundreds for a lot of hype.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='499206' date='May 27 2009, 07:27 PM']But seriously... does it make any audible difference?[/quote] There was a thread about this a month or so ago, where opinions were mixed. As a result, I bought a Gotoh from Spree on the list to see for myself. I found that it gave my bass more 'thump', more attack. I didn't notice any change in frequency balance, but my strings were pretty dead at the time. However, as our memory about such matters is highly unreliable, the only way of knowing for sure would be to record a 'before' and 'after' on the same bass and then to compare the two recordings one after another. That shouldn't be too difficult for someone to set up. I remember reading some research that showed our perception of 'sound quality' becomes unreliable when sound clips are auditioned more than 15 seconds apart.

Moving your cab backwards or forwards a bit is unlikely to do much for a standing wave that is as low as you describe (although you never know with these things). Try turning the cab so that it is not at right angles to the back or front wall. As the others have already mentioned, I'd certainly try dropping the 60-80Hz slider on my graphic, or parametric if I had one.

[quote name='greyparrot' post='494364' date='May 21 2009, 03:36 PM']Fair play but in that case he only paid like $25 dollers for it! i dont think anyone would expect a mark bass etc for that, but it is a funny review all the same.[/quote] Indeed. Some nice one-liners in there. Made me laugh.

We need more reviews like that. Unfortunately, people believe that if they have bought something, it must be good.

What Chris said. You've been shafted. Don't stand for it.

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='492114' date='May 19 2009, 09:05 AM']That seems a bit... steep.[/quote] "One of the other factors that will have an influence on sound quality is the quality of copper the cable is constructed from. Standard copper, found in household wiring and many budget audio cables, is known as tough pitch copper. This contains 500 to 750 parts per million of oxygen and this will cause the copper to oxidise." Oh dear. At least they didn't mention skin effect.

Why does (b bracket) come up as a smiley?

[quote name='farmer61' post='491901' date='May 18 2009, 09:51 PM']Anyone on here sell good quality (unused) cables, I suspect my gig cables are in need of replacement. Cheers.[/quote] OBBM seems to be the man - plenty of happy customers on here. Do a search. I make my own, but I respect the fact that a) he doesn't constantly spam the list to flog his products and doesn't slag off the competition at the drop of a hat. Because I make my own, I can tell you that he uses the best quality parts.

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='488980' date='May 15 2009, 03:27 PM']If you are handy with a router... route out that skunk stripe,[/quote] I was told once that if you tried to do that and the router bit touched the trussrod, it could shatter and have your eye out in a twinkling. Just saying.....

[quote name='Beedster' post='488674' date='May 15 2009, 11:19 AM']I wrote a thread a while back about the placebo effect and bass guitars and I think it's highly relevant to this thread also[/quote] I haven't read your comments, but I'm sure they apply to most of the discussions about gear on here. I owned a 1961 Strat. It was OK. Nothing special. A bit too 'edgy' if anything.

[quote name='redstriper' post='488425' date='May 15 2009, 12:47 AM']Take the Roland to uni for practising. Leave the GK with a band member and get him to take it to the gigs for you.[/quote] I love a bit of lateral thinking. Sounds like a great idea to me.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='486587' date='May 13 2009, 07:52 AM']I'm going to charge a measly £2.50 per board if its a stompbox-size one plus a flat rate £1 for p&p. Send me the pcb image and I'll have a look for you.[/quote] That's an amazing deal!

[quote name='danlea' post='486627' date='May 13 2009, 09:11 AM']I have to say I have similar experience with the *hot* stack at the bridge of my Japanese Precision (see signature). The volume is not as high as the non-stack version I have in my backup bass, but this could also be due to distance from the bridge and the guitar specifics.[/quote] I have a similar issue with Duncan P-Bass and Jazz pickups on the same bass. They are both vintage model pickups but the bridge Jazz pickup is quieter than the P-bass. The pickups themselves are fine (I've measured them). I have a Quarter Pounder Jazz waiting to go in now in an attempt to balance them up. The lesson here, as you say, is that there is always less output from a pickup near the bridge.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='486323' date='May 12 2009, 08:27 PM']Shouldn't that be Bl? [/quote] I'll ask Neville next time we go for a pint.

[quote name='dood' post='486313' date='May 12 2009, 08:16 PM']Written by Neville Thiele, 1993 in the Audio Engineering Society publication. Nicely quoted. [/quote] Thanks. Neville deserves to be quoted more, don't you agree? Good googling, by the way.

[quote name='TGEvans' post='486302' date='May 12 2009, 08:09 PM']Thanks, I think........ Seriosly though I think it should be fine.[/quote] I think you're right. As Alex said, it should be loud enough for just about anything.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='486268' date='May 12 2009, 07:20 PM']A good 2x15" at full blast might produce about 130dB SPL @ 1m which is roughly 10 acoustic watts. A decent band with good dynamics might run between 100 and 120dB at the audience, which is between 0.1 and 1W.[/quote] Just to amplify that, the magnetoelectrical performance of a loudspeaker driver is often characterized by the force factor B1, in units of tesla-meters. However, the parameter B1-Rc, in units of newtons per -watts, which can be described as a force conversion Fme, allows more meaningful comparisons of magnetoelectrical structures, while a second force conversion factor Fam, with units of -watts per newton, similarly allows comparison between the acoustomechanical characteristics of different cones. The efficiency (ratio of acoustic watts out to electrical watts in) of the driver is derived by multiplying these two force conversion factors together and squaring their product. Back to you, Alex.

[quote name='rmorris' post='485444' date='May 11 2009, 11:27 PM']I would have to say that NiMH rechargeables do tend to drop their voltage / power more rapidly than alkalines and more so as they get older. It depends on lots of things though - pattern of use / temperature etc. and is a whole topic in its own right. btw they also tend to lose charge more quickly when 'in the drawer' so don't bank on those ones that you charged up the other week still being okay. Various brands tested but I can't see big differences between them. Views welcome.[/quote] Can't say I've noticed NiMH rechargeables weakening as they age, and I use quite a few. However, it is true as you say that they 'self-discharge' over a period of between 3 and 6 months. You should therefore top them up just before you use them and remember that you will need to fully recharge them in 6 months at the latest whether you use them or not. There is no point in using them in things like clocks (or basses for that matter), where an alkaline normally lasts for years. Having said that, alkalines usually last a year in some of my meters, but I have a habit of forgetting to switch them off. That's where rechargeables really come into their own.