stevie

When I lived in the north west, Salford was the place to avoid like the plague. Unless things have changed since the arrival of the BBC, that area probably accounts for the city's number one position.

You mean if he'd made a racist comment it would have been a racist comment. Too true. You seem to have missed the 'joke' bit. 😄

It will certainly be easier to hear yourself with the GR than what you currently have. So you may have found your solution. It'll be interesting to hear what you think anyway.

With a 10" Jensen and a bullet tweeter in the box, it's unlikely to be uncoloured either. A little puzzling indeed.

I can almost predict the way this thread will go. I've been on Basschat too long. 😀

I have samples of both the Pulse 10 and the B10N-300X drivers. The Pulse has a bigger bottom end than the BN10 in this box but isn't quite as loud. Top end extension is about the same. Although there's a difference of 100W in the thermal power handling, the excursion capability (xmax) is fairly similar. So they should start to complain at about the same time.

With these kinds of comparisons, it really is necessary to compare like with like. It's not clear whether both amps were set flat but they should be. Was a DI being used or the matching cab? This can complicate matters because you are then comparing two different components at the same time. Interesting though.

Interesting. I'll give it a go after a quick listen. The Tonehammer has no lows and no highs. It's all mids and they're not very pleasant. The GR has more lows and a smoother sound, but the top end is lacking. I'd personally be much happier with the GR. The drums sound great but are too loud for this exercise. Nice one @johnpaulbass! We could do with more of these.

With 2 Faital Pro 10s and a Faital Pro 15 in the box, it's perfectly possible that the thermal power handling is 900W (rms). That's already quite impressive - so why bump it up to 1,100W or 2,200W? And the 300W peak power handling tweeter is just nonsense. Thermal power handling is irrelevant here anyway, as system output will be limited by driver excursion or port air velocity - more likely the latter - well before the thermal rating is reached. You can't compare power handling figures unless you know how they've been calculated. Most manufacturers very sensibly base their specs on the power ratings supplied by the driver manufacturers, in which case you'd hope to see RMS or AES standard next to them. If this information is missing, you could well be looking at a figure that is up to twice the actual one.

Interesting to know that which cab is better was actually irrelevant to your choice, Al. What mattered was which cab is lighter. We could have solved that one for you three years ago.

Tilting a cab (or raising it up) doesn't improve a cab's dispersion; it just allows the mid and high frequencies to be beamed in the direction of your ears. It's a fudge because, if you step to the side, those high frequencies disappear. When a cab has good dispersion, the sound remains the same no matter where you're listening from. For the audience too. A good PA cab can do it, but bass cabs usually fail. Which is why they're often tilted or raised.

Although there doesn't seem much point in fitting a tweeter and then switching it off (unless I'm missing something). Bear in mind that, despite its relatively low cost, this is a good quality HF unit and a class above what you find in most bass cabs. As far as I can tell, most players who switch tweeters off do so because they sound bad. This compression driver/horn combination sounds really nice

Very nice work, John. Don't discount the possibility of adding a tweeter later. It's definitely worth it even if your repertoire doesn't include slap. 😊

Sounds like a plan. What size of ports will fit on the baffle?

I reckon you have about 30 litres net. The tuning appears to be in the region of 80Hz, which is OK for a vocal cab or a guitar cab, but not good for bass. To make matters worse, as Downunderwonder correctly points out, the rear entrance to the ports is constrained. It looks like the designer didn't know what he was doing. If you block one of the ports and open up the rear of the remaining port, you'll have a fighting chance. That will probably tune the cab to around 60Hz. It's difficult to be accurate here because the proximity of the ports to the rear baffle affects the tuning. You might like to get hold of a Celestion 12BN-300S, which is claimed by many to be close to the EV you sold. No guarantees though.

I remarked in another thread about a year ago that I preferred the sound of the amp with the 240Hz cut - to about 9 o'clock if I remember rightly. So you're not alone.

Finally, a view of the front and rear of the cabinet. Builders can choose from a selection of feet, corners and handles from Blue Aran to finish the cab off.

And a photo showing the brace on the back of the baffle, which is simply glued on using three screws.

Here are a few more photos to help potential builders see what's what. The first is my port extension arrangement. This particular cardboard is ideal for the purpose because it entails going out and getting yourself a pack of beer.

Oh dear. Not sure what's happened but it doesn't sound good.

It's on the left, John. Each horizontal bar is 5 ohms. Minimum impedance is around 7 ohms.

I forgot to mention - gluing a piece of batten to the baffle just above the driver completely killed the 70Hz resonance, as can be seen from the impedance curve.

This should be the final piece of the puzzle from me. The port needs to be about 170mm long in total. So we have to add 50mm to the length of our standard 120mm port using one of the techniques mentioned above - unless you can think of another way of doing it. There may well be 4" ports that are longer than the one we're using. If there are, they'll certainly be more expensive. If you're not bothered about obtaining maximum output from this cab, stick with the tuning that the 120mm length gives you. It'll sound fine. But if there's any chance you might want to put the full 200 watts through it, be sure to add the extra two inches. For internal damping, I'd line the cabinet with your damping material of choice, keeping it away from the port. Felt is my favourite nowadays, but use whatever you happen to have (or repurpose an old duvet). I tested the cab with a variety of different recorded sources, including bass guitar (obviously) but also some recordings with voice. The cab is perfectly usable as a PA cab. The colouration between 2 and 3kHz is audible (on bass guitar also) but it doesn't jump out at you. It's a natural sound on voice and doesn't screech on female vocals like a lot of PA cabs do. Here's the impedance curve without any damping material in the cab. It's a very easy amplifier load. Even @agedhorse would nod in approval (nasty amplifier loads are his pet peeve).