stevie

Blue Aran have these on offer at the moment for £11. That's likely to be a lot cheaper and less trouble than getting a replacement diaphragm from the Mesa distributor. https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=PAUPHT406&browsemode=manufacturer

The One Ten cab uses a 10" Eminence driver with a 2" coil, rated at 200W maximum according to the AES standard. Sure, you can use a 600W amp with it if you're careful , but I'd be very wary about actually putting 600W into it.

Very generous indeed.

He was just ahead of his time.🙂

It'll sound fine that way up, but if I were intending to use it like that all the time, I'd turn the horn round to increase the vertical dispersion of the compression driver/horn. The cab is quite low down and you'll hear more of the important upper mids with the horn reoriented when you are standing close to the cab. Unfortunately, turning the horn round means taking a jigsaw to the baffle, but it's a fairly simple task. The good news is that the horn frontplate is square and you can therefore use the same holes. I'd love to claim that there was a great plan, but the fact that the cab works like this for rack gear is pure serendipity.🙂 Looks good though (although it's definitely going to need four more feet). The question is: where to put the badge?

That's a very insightful and well produced review. Alle Achtung!

Yes, I agree.

If this were a cardioid design, which is extremely unlikely from its appearance, you'd think that Bergantino would at least mention it in their publicity material. As it is, they don't provide any explanation at all for the rear facing driver. I'd say that @owen has the right idea. They do claim that the cab has a 3D sound. ‘Holo-Graphic’ to be more precise. Anyone expecting anything technically interesting about this box can probably move on. This is a product of the marketing department IMO. It's interesting to see that they are now using a compression driver and constant directivity horn instead of the bullet tweeters in their other cabs.

It looks fantastic.

Here's a drawing of the handle with some more information. This one shows the cutout diameter as 147mm. And yet another that doesn't tell you much but at least gets the cutout diameter right. 111252_2.pdf 111252.pdf

Luke, I'm not sure how you can do that, but if you can, it would be great. You have the advantage of also having one of the handles - so no doubt you could check the dimensions against the real thing. I found another slightly different drawing of the same handle somewhere in internet land. I'll have another look to see if I can find it. I appreciate the input.

Exactly, Luke. Notice that there's no locational information for the mounting holes, which look as if they are evenly spaced. Also, you definitely need a 150mm hole in the centre. It won't fit in a 148mm hole. I speak from experience.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for a 1600 or 1700 then. They both look knockout. I fitted Gotoh Resolite tuners to the 1200 to try to lighten it a bit but I didn't actually notice any difference in practice - which I found a bit strange.

That's bitumen sound-deadening sheet. It's not a critical component if you can't find any.

What would the 4-string equivalent be, Woody?

Having lots of clamps is obviously the best way to go, but I'm conscious that quite a few people have bought them specifically for this project - and might not use them again. Four long clamps should do it, but screws can always come to the rescue if needed. And a couple of tins of paint on top of a panel is as good as anything. A brad nailer isn't a tool that everyone has in their workshop, but I reckon that clamping each panel and then holding it firm with staples from a brad nailer would free up your clamps immediately for the next panel. You should be able to assemble a cab fairly quickly using that method, and staple holes are easy to fill and sand because they are small. I've been down to the local Screwfix and got myself a brad nailer and will be trying it out soon on my next box.

Looking good, Aidan. Thanks for chiming in. There are still a few more kits under construction out there that we haven't seen here yet. Yes, sorry about the handle holes. We made the not unreasonable assumption that the holes were evenly spaced around the handle. They look evenly spaced but they're not quite - they've use some weird spacing that's not obvious. I contacted the distributor, Adam Hall, but they were unable to supply any drawings showing the hole spacings - and the only dimension shown in the drawings they do publish (the handle hole) is the wrong size, as we discovered on the prototype. A few people have used black machine screws with T-nuts on the handle. I'm sure someone will be along to say which ones they used.

I upgraded from an SR500 last year to an SR1200 Vintage Natural Flat with the Big Single pickups. I don't know why, but I expected the SR1200 to be a lightweight bass like the SR500. Instead, it's about one kg heavier, which was a disappointment. It's actually about an average weight. Loving the sound of the SR1200 but I'd just like to know if I can get the same sound from a lighter bass. Are there any lightweight Premiums?

Excellent! If you have a look at what other companies are charging for similar items on Ebay, that's pretty good value.

Yes. 1.5 mm Aluminium Perforated 10 mm Holes 384 x 567 mm. You have to contact them and specify the size you'd like them to cut. They charged me £15 incl. delivery, which is what I'd expect them to charge you. They put a special Ebay ad up for me for that specific size, but have now taken it down.

Rick Beato's channel is one of the finest on Youtube.

Yes, the frame looks fine. I was just thinking of ways of saving weight, and the grille support frame probably weighs 3 to 400g.

We may eventually see a vinyl-covered version then, Stew? That would be cool.

I wish I'd thought of it earlier, chaps. However, even with the full grille support, you should still comfortably hit the 13kg mark if you use the aluminium grille.

I just had a thought that might interest builders using the aluminium grille. Because it's 1.5mm thick and relatively stiff, it doesn't actually need the full picture frame used to support the expanded metal grille. Six individual support points should be ample, with one in the centre if you want. Use wood or maybe even rubber feet as standoffs. EBS use pieces of hosepipe cut to size as standoffs. As my assembled cab already has the picture-frame grille support fitted, you'll have to experiment a bit with this idea on your own. Please post your results for everyone to see. The good news is that removing the full grille support and fitting the aluminium grille will bring the weight of the cab down to well under 13kg.