stevie

I gouged a line along the side of the cab. It was a prototype anyway and I just made good with wood filler. Unless you're using those big plastic corners, you only need to round the edges off slightly

That's a very good point.

If you're a pro woodworker, use a router. However, I tried it with my router and made a complete mess of it. Honestly, it's really easy to round off the edges using sandpaper.

You can also sand the corners by hand using some 40-grit sandpaper followed by something finer. An orbital sander is nice, of course, but it's not absolutely necessary. Blue Aran say that Tuff Cab doesn't cover filler very well but that's not been my experience. I also found, unlike Chienmortbb, that it doesn't adhere well to PVA glue. So, experiment first. This kit has been machined to quite tight tolerances. So there shouldn't be any gaps. I think it's OK if the joins show, as long as they're even.

If you find your clamps have left a depression in the wood, you can usually fix it by wetting the depression slightly. That will cause the wood to expand back into shape.

Yes, I see what happened now. You can fit it either way. The cutout was designed to allow the vertical brace on the baffle to mate with the top panel without the circular brace getting in the way. But I then decided to shorten the front panel brace so that it would fit under the handle reinforcement brace instead. So either way round is OK. I suspect that's probably too much information for most folk.🙂

And remember....... you can never have too many clamps.😀

It's worth pointing out that I'll be changing the hole size in the next batch of cabinets to make fitting the handle much easier. While the bolts and T-nuts in Pete's cab are totally bombproof, they're overkill. So the holes will be sized to take 5.0 X 30mm woodscrews, which are listed in the Parts List.

I had the same problem when I tried to cut the tube with a chopsaw - it shattered when I'd nearly finished the cut. It was fine with my normal saw, which is probably blunt anyway..... Pete's tip about marking the cut all the way round is a good one. If you try to judge it by eye you'll end up with two parallel cuts at the end.

Same applies to bass guitar cabs - but don't tell anybody.

Sorry, KiOgon, you're quite right. The rating is actually .18A. My mistake.

I have a brand new Panaflow 24V, 80mm, 1.8A that you can have for a fiver plus delivery (say £3). It's a bit more powerful than what you have but you'll never need to replace it again.

I might have one of these spare. I think it's a Panaflo, which is one of the best makes. I'll check.

Excellent! keep the tips coming.

Five inches turned out to be the optimum port size for the cab. It's just unfortunate that nobody sells a commercial five-inch loudspeaker port. A six-inch port would be too long and a four-inch port (or multiple smaller ports) won't handle as much air at high power. The five-inch port I found is used in air conditioning systems, which I suppose is why it's only available in white. But it is cheap and you get two ports for a couple of pounds. Normal plumbing pipe is available in black but not in this size (unless someone knows different). A white port doesn't actually look that bad in practice and, of course, if you're using a fabric grille or foam behind your metal grille it doesn't matter what colour it is. I think most people would prefer a black port behind a metal grille and the Euro Car Parts primer offers a cheap solution (if you can get them to deliver).

My fully charged EBLs measure 8.44V. I used a cheap, simple, non-electronic charger without any problems. It seems to be quite difficult to overcharge 9-volt batteries - no idea why. The 1.5V ones get hot quite quickly if they are overcharged.

And so it begins......

These are all good points, well made.

Any bass players on this forum?

The speaker is pretty much in an optimum cab at 68 litres. Once you start moving away from optimum, the modelling programs give you different answers. It does look like you'll get more output between 40 and 60 Hz at 1 watt, but there's unlikely to be much difference, if any, in the maximum acoustic power at 500 watts. The easiest and most effective, if not the most convenient, solution, is the one you've come up with already: add a second cab when you need it.

You might like to try the cab with a bigger amp. Your BMS driver is rated at 500 watts. I don't know what amp you're using, but that might be the limiting factor rather than the speaker. Try something that produces 500W into 8 ohms and see what happens.

I'm really looking forward to seeing what you all come up with in terms of finish and appearance (although I expect most will be content with black).

There's a new Parts List up on page one of this thread, which includes a revision and details of the screws you'll need.

That's odd - they accepted and confirmed my order for a can. Mind you, £2.99 delivered sounds ridiculously cheap.