stevie

Last week I played a song all the way through in the wrong key. It was one of those stupid keys like B major. By the time I'd figured it out it was too late. Nobody said anything. I don't think they noticed. That was a bit depressing.

Perfectly logical thinking, Frank, but I don't think that's it. And I wasn't teasing you - I was genuinely interested in your train of thought.

Thanks, Lewis. I get it.

[quote name='machinehead' timestamp='1476899510' post='3158314'] Oh I think you could explain it much better than me stevie. It was my day job for 43 years and I don't like talking shop. [/quote] Sorry to disappoint you, Frank, but I can't explain it either. It doesn't make any sense to me at all. The only thing I can think of is that the 12ohm cabinet isn't actually 12 ohms, but 16 ohms. It was a perfectly sensible question though.

There is a Harley Benton 2x10 cab on eBay at the moment for about £70 should anyone be interested.

I tried removing the handle, but that is not so simple either: there are no visible screws and you can't lever the end caps off without damaging them. Hmmmm. I called the nice people at Electronic Music Services in Southend and they didn't really know. I suppose that's good news because it means they probably haven't had one in for repair. They did say that the handle screws were unlikely to be screwed into the chassis though. Time to drop a line to the guy on the forum who managed to figure it out.

[quote name='machinehead' timestamp='1476888019' post='3158148'] Remember, we're talking overall cab impedence here and both speakers don't cover the same frequencies. [/quote] Yes, do go on.

I unscrewed a couple of the feet and the screws were just long enough to go into the wood. Thanks for the pointer.

It did cross my mind, but it wasn't immediately clear how to get to the handle bolts. I tried levering the handle covers off, but they wouldn't budge. I'll try again with a bit more force. Thanks. That could be it.

As the Subway amp costs the same from Thomann in Germany, it's more likely Mesa isn't giving its export customers a very good deal.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1476630887' post='3155784'] Looking online it seems its just held in with 4 screws on the top. So it should slide out from the back or the front. Try pushing it from the back first. [/quote] I've tried pushing, pulling, banging and levering, and believe me, it is stuck. There are screws top (and bottom) holding the amp in the casing, but there has to be something else as well.

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1476625881' post='3155710'] The fan shouldn't be related to Volume. There are 2 types, those that are on all the time and those that are temperature sensitive and only come on when the temperature in the case rises above a set level. So it depends on which type it is. [/quote] Yes, that's what I'm trying to find out. I can hear the internal fan, which is on all the time. As I'm using it at home at a low volume at the moment, the amp is not getting hot. It could well be that it only switches in when the amp gets hot, in which case all is fine. However, if the fan is faulty and I gig the amp, I could blow the amp and my speaker. The reason I want to get inside the amp is to test the external fan. Even then, it could be the thermistor switch that's faulty, which is why I'd like to know if the fan should be turning at low volumes. I'd give Behringer a call, but it's Sunday and I'm not sure I'd be able to find someone to answer the question anyway.

I've taken all the visible screws from the wooden case on my Behringer BX4500 head and the thing won't come out. It's solid. I even looked under the corners in case there were hidden screws there. Come someone tell me what I am missing? I haven't played this at loud volumes yet, but the fan on the back panel doesn't come on at low volumes. Is this normal?

It's likely to be the 12 K 3 PL model - 700 watts programme. There's only a certain amount you can glean from spec sheets, but it looks to be in the same ballpark as the Eminence offerings.

[quote name='obbm' timestamp='1474634081' post='3139448'] In addition they are response for post-sales warranty so if your Prodigy dies it will have to back to them for it to be fixed at their cost, assuming that it is still within the warranty period. All of this is paid for from the mark-up on the products they are selling.... [/quote] Sorry to nitpick, because I agree with everything else you have said, but the manufacturer normally refunds the distributor for repairs they have to carry our under warrranty. So that's not one of their costs.

Yes, kerbs and stairs are probably the big problem for dolly boards, although I've never used one myself. My trolley is a sack barrow type. I want to avoid cutting holes in my cab for rear castors, or spending money on a dolly board for that matter, when a separate trolley (which I already own) is the best solution anyway. I think I'll give the trolley a go first. Unless someone has a convincing argument in favour of another solution. Thanks for the input!

That's a step too far in the woodworking department for me, Mark. So the Barefaced uses 3-inch castors and large rubber feet at the front to make the cab level. OK. This is a lot more complicated than I expected.....

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1476291212' post='3153120'] 3 inch might be better as cracks in pavements etc, won't be noticed as much but you might have to raise the front of the cab a bit so that it's level. Another option is 4 wheels on the bottom of the cab and turn it on its side when in use it then becomes a high dolly and you can wheel loads of gear in at once. [/quote] OK. I think I get that. So with 3-inch inset wheels on the back, the cab would not be level. Would larger rubber feet on the front fix that, or not? The cab design is vertical and won't work properly on it's side. 4 wheels on the bottom should be OK in my limited experience, but it might be a bit top-heavy when moving it.

I'm now more confused than when I asked the question. So is a dolly board a better solution than a trolley or permanently attached castors?

[quote name='deksawyer' timestamp='1476275699' post='3152896'] What's your opinion on active versus powered? [/quote] If you already have a power amp in-cab, you are throwing away a lot of the benefits of digital technology and DSP by not using an internal active crossover. The HF power amp section doesn't have to be as powerful as the main one - so the weight penalty isn't huge. An electronic crossover allows you to time-align the drivers accurately and use steeper slopes than you would otherwise use. Plus, you can then tailor your limiting so that it acts independently on each individual driver, which helps with reliability. The downside is that there is an extra cost involved. Technically, it is a superior solution, which is why all the top-end active cabs use this approach - and even some cheapo ones like the Alto TX12, which cost about £150 each. I'm a great fan of passive speakers personally. But that's a different kettle of fish and they do have to be done properly.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1476268422' post='3152808'] I didn't know they were active! [/quote] It doesn't look like they are active. They are powered. I think most people would expect an active system (two power amps and an electronic crossover) for that money.

I was wondering about what size to use. Wouldn't 3-inch be better?

I'm in the middle of building a 15" cabinet about the size of the Ashdown ABM or Trace 1153 and am looking for some pointers on wheels. I have a set of 3" rubber wheels on my Ashdown Mini 15 and they work quite well, but I'm unsure of whether they will be right for this larger cab. So I'm thinking either 4 x 4" castors (probably a bit big) or those recessed castors that fit into the bottom edge of the cab allowing you to tilt and roll. A top handle is in place that would allow for this. http://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?MC=01120801&LG=ENG&title=corner-castors What are your experience with those - positive or negative? Or would I be better off with my aluminium trolley?

I agree with the others. It's a choke. It's got to be from the tweeter circuit because if it was from the LF circuit you wouldn't have any sound from the main driver now. It sounds like it hasn't been fixed down very well and was held on mainly by two soldered wires, which have snapped off. You need to trace the wiring from the L-pad (the tweeter volume control) back towards the input. It should lead to the crossover. If there is enough wire sticking out of the choke, you might be able to repair it - otherwise you'll need a new choke. If this assumption is correct, you are now putting excessive power through the tweeter. So you really need to fix it, even though it might not sound any different.

Sounds like all root notes to me. One sustained note per bar, with an eighth note lead-in every once in a while at the end of the bar and an occasional octave. You put your finger on it yourself. It's country. Keep it dead simple.