stevie

If your current Hydrive 410 is 8 ohms, that's absolutely right.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1400077990' post='2450520'] Whatever floats your boat... [/quote] Conan, I've just taken you off my Christmas list. No more bottles of best malt for you, laddie!

I like the propping up ideas. You would really need some serious woodworking skills to turn that box into a monitor shape (even if you were to ignore the internal problems that JPJ has highlighted). It may not matter, but it would probably have very little resale value once you had finished with it.

This thread is definitely getting weird.......

[quote name='ern500evo' timestamp='1400076698' post='2450505'] The poor OP must be wondering what the hell he's started! If only he knew the outcome of the thread would be so predictable! :-) [/quote] Yup. You just wind them up and off they go! I love it!

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1400075579' post='2450482'] Call me a cynic (I know that I am...I question everything) but I wouldn't personally place much weight in a standard music mag review. That goes for ANY product. [/quote] +1 Wise words.

Noooooooooooooooooo! Somebody mentioned handles and feet. Not FAIR!!!!!!!!!

[quote name='Musicman20' timestamp='1400071052' post='2450414'] Hahaha! Thou shalt not criticise any UK manufactured product...because...well, no idea really. [/quote] A bit like that, yes. There is only one truth - our truth. Everyone else is wrong and will go to hell. Sortof. Anyway, if God had wanted us to have lightweight cabinets he wouldn't have invented the bass guitar.

I certainly hope he won't. His is virtually the only sane voice on this thread. It's starting to become like a JW prayer meeting in here.

Raising your cab off the ground is never a great idea because you lose the extra low-end efficiency you get from coupling with the floor. If your problem is hearing yourself, tilting the cab up slightly so that the sound is directed to your ears is a better option IMO.

I found an interesting copy of the Markbass Magazine from 2009 online today. The front page reads: [font=sans-serif][size=7] "100% Made in Italy[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] The only way to maintain and grow the worldwide success of[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] Markbass is to keep manufacturing our products in Italy, where we[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] have full control over the entire process, from the quality of our[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] materials to our rigorous testing procedures. We stand firm on this,[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] despite the fact that so many other companies have moved their[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] production to Asia, seduced by the short-term economic benefits of[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] lower production costs.[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] Manufacturing in Italy not only keeps us on top of our quality control,[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] it also allows us to continuously—and quickly—innovate and refine[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] our products.[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] We couldn’t work this way with an offshore factory, because we’d be[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] locked into inflexible long-term production schedules. Our products[/size][/font][font=sans-serif][size=4] cannot afford this type of inflexibility! We’re a company with vision,[/size][/font] passion, and blah blah blah." (Don't shoot the messenger. I'm a Markbass user and I like their stuff.)

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1399997679' post='2449750'] Quite recently. They make them themselves now! [/quote] Really? That surprises me.

Does anyone know when Markbass started fitting copies of B&C drivers rather than the real thing?

That's certainly a great improvement on what it used to be.

What's delivery on the 2 x 10s, by the way, Bigwan?

[quote name='Sean' timestamp='1399951827' post='2449272'] they're idiots and a disgrace to the other people who post drivel on internet bulletin boards... [/quote] What?

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1399676684' post='2446708'] I like to put some fairly heavy wadding on the back panel and leave the rest of the cab unfilled. This does make an audible difference and I'd move your wadding to the back panel immediately behind the speakers. [/quote] Although the situation is complicated here by the fact that the ports are on the back - so it may be better to put the damping on all the walls and the right hand back panel (not on the front baffle, of course). I use a staple gun for this, as you don't want the wadding flapping around. As Phil says, keep the wadding away from the ports and make sure that there is a clear path from the driver on the right to ports. i.e. you don't really want a lot of wadding in the middle of the cab. Looking good so far.

Steve, the way to get what you want is to fit a smaller driver - a 12" - which will extend lower at the expense of midrange efficiency. To do that you need a sub-baffle, which you can easily make by cutting a round piece of 1/2" MDF or (proper) ply the same size as your 15". Use the 15 as a template to drill mounting holes in the MDF. Then cut a hole for the 12" driver in the centre of the MDF sub-baffle along with suitable mounting holes. Stick foam tape around the 15" baffle hole in the Flite. Screw the MDF to your Flite baffle, fit the 12" (T-nuts are advisable) and you should be good to go - assuming you've chosen the right 12. The Kappalite 3012LF will probably suit, as well as a number of others. I did something very similar to fit a Kappalite 12LF to an Ashdown Mini 15, which is probably a similar size to your Flite. I used 1" birch because I had enough space behind the grille. If you paint the sub-baffle matt black and fit a standard 12" grille, it should look OK. You are not cutting or gluing your cabinet and the modification is 100% reversible.

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1399563683' post='2445388'] Checked your link stevie but just get a Blue Arans homepage and a large blank area - but i assume its somewhere amongst this lot ... [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?search=port+tube&x=9&y=11&stk=Any+Stock+Availability&perp=10"]http://www.bluearan....ability&perp=10[/url] [/quote] Yes. Sorry about that. The Monacor monacor mbr-100. Those drivers look quality.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1399540928' post='2445103'] Question for you gurus - does the wadding affect the internal dimensions used in calculations, or is the assumption made that the sound waves travel straight through it so it is ignored? [/quote] For calculating cabinet size it's normally ignored.

I was thinking of this kind of thing: https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EVNL092C_2PK. They are just a lot easier to fit because you don't need a perfectly round hole. The flange covers your bodges with the jigsaw. Unfortunately, those ones are a bit short, although they would do at a pinch. If you keep looking you will find some adjustable ones that would be better, but they might be a bit pricey. Phil's idea of drain pipe will give you greater flexibility at a reasonable cost, but does require a neat hole to look good.

The two drivers you have will comfortably handle around 300 watts of bass in your box. Although one port was sufficient with your previous drivers, you really need to add a second port if you are going to take advantage of your new drivers' higher power. Two ports of 95mm internal diameter need to be 140mm long - which means extending your existing one or taking it out and fitting two plastic ones with flanges. Braces are something that you can always add later. To check whether braces would help, feel how much the panels of your cab are vibrating when you play your bottom E. Just out of interest, this is the kind of frequency response you can expect (bear in mind that the room will compensate to some extent for the fall in the bottom octave): [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/9sqtfa.jpg[/IMG]