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ThomBassmonkey

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Everything posted by ThomBassmonkey

  1. ThomBassmonkey
    Gonna give this a bump up as I [i]might[/i] be there with GK. Sounds like it'll be a good'un. Website's here: [url="http://www.londonbassguitarshow.com/"]http://www.londonbassguitarshow.com/[/url]
  2. ThomBassmonkey
    I'm sure my band would love to play that, but like others have said, pulling in a crowd that big (especially in London in my experience) would be very tough.
  3. ThomBassmonkey
    A pre-amp is a pre-amp, if you specifically want a passive bass, then you put an outboard pre-amp in the signal path, it defeats the point. Though why anyone would want a bass specifically because it's passive, I don't know (and I know you're not saying that's what's attracting you to the bass). People like passive purely because of the tone. Anything you put in a signal path will affect the tone in some way. There are (I believe) very transparent pre-amps, but unless the EQ on your amp can't quite give it the fine tuning you want, there's not a lot of point. Also some people don't trust having to use batteries in their basses and prefer not to have another thing that can potentially go wrong at a gig. Both my basses have push/pull active/passive and it just depends on what they sound like when I'm in the room. There's no real volume difference between the active and passive modes.
  4. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='HMX' post='1083545' date='Jan 9 2011, 08:23 PM']What are the necks like on Sterlings - slimmer than Stingrays, and compared to jazz basses?[/quote] Just to point out, this is a Sterling by Musicman (or SBMM), not a Musicman Sterling (I don't know why they made it so confusing). It's basically a 'ray replica. The Musicman Sterlings have the slimmer necks.
  5. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1083022' date='Jan 9 2011, 11:53 AM']I have a 3 string (EAD). That covers most things remarkably well. 4 is fine for most things, but a 5 tuned DGCFBb is a great compromise. Want more from a four? Tune it in fifths![/quote] I'm really tempted to get a cheap 4 string and try it out in DGCF, BF#C#G# or maybe even AEBF#. Apart from being able to play most of our songs on 4 strings, it'd force me to look at the way I construct basslines a little differently.
  6. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='eubassix' post='1083017' date='Jan 9 2011, 11:43 AM']I'm certain is IS welnek's: if it isn't then the OP should know. If it is, then interested BC'ers could also PM welnek if they have Q's re. the bass. I'm sure it wasn't intended, but the wording of the OP reads, to me, as if the seller is the original owner.[/quote] Welnek's has a flat end on the fretboard, this one doesn't, also the grain's very different (most noticably a knot going over the neck pup on this that isn't present on Welnek's). They're pretty obviously NOT the same bass.
  7. ThomBassmonkey
    Depends on the song. Something like Billy Jean would just sound wrong with a "creative" bassline in it. Generally it depends what I'm doing. When I was at college, I learned entire songs note for note. Now I only play covers in a ska-ish band, so they're all totally re-written anyway. I think if I were to do a cover in a similar style to the original, I'd learn all the riffs, then change the runs to suit me so it's still "mine" but the groove matches the original.
  8. ThomBassmonkey
    My wick and Sandy have push/pull active/passive, so I just use whatever I'm in the mood for and depending what gear I'm using (e.g. going through the PA or just using my amp etc). I find on both basses passive's a bit punchier, but active is smoother.
  9. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='Cygnus x-1' post='1082005' date='Jan 8 2011, 12:34 PM']As I have a Roland cb100 combo I have been thinking of using an extra external speaker cab, but I too am confused about ohms, the Roland manual says use a cab with a maximum of 8 ohms, but does not specify whether a 4 or 8 ohm external cab would be better in this set up. How do you find out which to use?[/quote] As WH says, 4 Ohms is MORE than 8 Ohms. It's weird, but that's how it works. I'd use an 8 Ohm cab if you wanted an extension.
  10. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='warwickhunt' post='1081963' date='Jan 8 2011, 11:59 AM']I'd not be surprised to learn that he is also a guitar player... and yes I consider the bass and the guitar separate instruments BUT accept that you can be proficient in both. However, I feel that where guitarists don't make good bassists is in the way that this guy is approaching it[/quote] I agre with this (the bit I deleted I feel is irrelevant since he's not playing with a band, he might do something different. To me, the bass needs to be laying down a groove. A lot of hip hop tracks (like the one he's playing along to) have space for a good groove, but his playing in that vid sounds too mechanical to me. That's before going into the timing issues and how bad his slap sounds.
  11. ThomBassmonkey
    Thanks Chris, they are lovely basses. Been after one for about 8 years, who'd have known that I'd have found something else within a year of owning it? And yep, the neck work's insignificant enough (in work at least, cost enough hehe) that no one would lose out if I didn't mention it. As said though, I'd rather be totally honest. Forgot to mention before! When it went in for the neck repair, I had the jack socket switched out for a switchcraft too. Some more pics (taken on my phone, so unless the light is just right, they can turn out a bit odd hehe): Another shot of the body from a different angle: Back of the headstock, inc serial number, running it through the warwick database returned this: Serial No.: D-092013-02 Article Code: 1225080000BZOVAOWW produced: 15/05/2002 Info: Thumb BO, 5-string Natural Oil finish Ovangkol body Ovangkol neck Black hardware I forgot to mention before, the MEC logos on the pups are a little worn and there is a mark on the "neck" (if you can call it that on a thumb) pup from a string. Purely aesthetic but you might as well know. Action at 12th fret, sorry it's a bit blurry, couldn't get enough natural light to please my camera. This pic also shows off the grain on the side of the board, which I love. Classic "down the neck" shot. Sadly the strings aren't made of LEDs, it's just the light reflecting.
  12. ThomBassmonkey
    Nah, sorry. If I ever want to get rid of it, I'll let you know and you can have it for the same price I payed for it. I'm very happy with it though and don't have any intentions of moving it on.
  13. ThomBassmonkey
    You really do want this bass, it's bloody gorgeous. Unfortunately for you, it's also mine now, and it's going to stay that way. Sorry
  14. ThomBassmonkey
    Bump for a singer's arty farty poetry and fancy 2h bass tapping. This is this exact bass in action.
  15. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='martindupras' post='1080639' date='Jan 7 2011, 12:35 AM']- martin[/quote] +1 to your whole post. I'd always rather go and play a bass than have it sent to me without checking it first. Online retailers that claim things are in stock that aren't just lose my trust completely, I recently had a big issue with GAK that involved a cab that was "in stock" but wasn't, also a head I ordered from them, after cancelling everything I had planned for a day to wait in for the delivery, I rang and found out that it hadn't even been sent yet (with some pathetic excuses about weather affecting delivery companies, even though it hadn't left the warehouse). Generally I buy locally or 2nd hand, so I've not had too many issues with buying unseen. I really hate being ignored though, I find it very disrespectful. Being asked to hold on for a moment while someone gets the phone isn't an issue unless it's a long call and I'm stood about like a lemon, but people who are "working" and just chatting to a mate or on facebook while I'm waiting just makes me feel unimportant to them, which more often than not loses their custom as I don't make a habit of going to shops unless I actually need something (I hate shopping).
  16. ThomBassmonkey
    I followed the links to the articles, one of them claims "Cobain later switched to Fender guitars and made the Fender Jaguar model, his favorite, a premier rock guitar." I'm sure he took a Jaguar and simplified it to make a Jagstang? Just being nit picky, I didn't notice his other items for sale when I was looking.
  17. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1080625' date='Jan 7 2011, 12:08 AM']That's easy ThomBM us guys that play the over a thousand pound second hand basses call it mojo, On cheaper ones it's called damage [/quote] I'm still passing off the dings on my Sandberg as part of it's relic'd finish. But shh, don't tell anyone. Unfortunately, I don't think a "mojoed" Ritter would look quite as effective as a slightly battered (for example) Fender.
  18. ThomBassmonkey
    I had a play on Oakbear's Ritter 6er at the Nottingham Bass Bash, it's probably the nicest 6 string bass I've ever played. It looked and played amazingly. Having said that, I'd never trust myself with one, mine get knocked about a bit (not managed to damage anything yet, it's only a matter of time though) and the thought of knocking an instrument that's as much art as a tool scares me. Anything that goes over the grand mark 2nd hand worries me a bit when I play it and I don't think I could own out of fear.
  19. ThomBassmonkey
    Sorry, missed that it was an all-valve head being made. To be honest, I prefer SS, so I don't really know where the gaps in the market for valve stuff lays.
  20. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='gub' post='1080120' date='Jan 6 2011, 05:03 PM']ok now i feel pissed! whats the idea of the frets being like that then ? never seen it before.[/quote] Read this thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=113125&hl=dingwall&st=0"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...ngwall&st=0[/url] To shorten it down, varying string lengths keeps the feel and the timbre of the strings similar instead of your G string being tight and trebly while your B string flaps about and sounds muddy.
  21. ThomBassmonkey
    I think Bumnote might be onto something with regards to budget. A budget head that's giggable would be brilliant. There's lots of people who want a gigging amp on a shoestring budget and loads are forced to go 2nd hand or wait and save. There really aren't a lot of heads around for under £200 that are comfortably giggable, I know it wouldn't meet the criteria of a lot of posts in this thread, but this forum isn't an accurate cross section of bassists, it's people who are interested enough in gear and bass playing that they're prepared to sign up to a site and read about it (and most likely know what they like and either own it or are working towards owning it). I know a LOT of bassists that just play bass, the biggest factor in what they own is how much it cost first, looks second and playability and sound third. Bringing out a cheap head would open up the possibility of getting a stack rather than a combo. If you could bring out a nice head (for the money) and stick it with a cab for the price of an Ashdown MAG, I think you'd be onto a winner.
  22. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='Bassmurf' post='1079814' date='Jan 6 2011, 01:32 PM']Never had to adjust the intonation on my old SSD NS94 so any advice on how you do that on a Spector bridge would be more than welcome![/quote] It'll depend on the bridge on your bass. I just had a look at a couple of Spector basses in the for sale section and they seemed to have quite different bridges. To check the intonation, play the 12th fret, if the note's sharp (after making sure that the open note is in tune, of course ) then the string needs to be longer, if it's flat it needs to be shorter (IIRC, hard to tell without having a bass in front of me). The two most common methods for adjusting intonation are: A screw going through from the back of the bridge paralell to the body of the bass. This is most common, easy to adjust, you just screw and unscrew to adjust. To lengthen the string, you tighten the screw and vice versa. The other common way is that the saddles will be screwed into the bridge directly, to adjust intonation on these, you need to loosen the string (the screws are usually, but not always right under the string), loosen the screw and then adjust the string length by moving the saddle towards/away from the nut. Then tune the string and re-check.
  23. ThomBassmonkey
    That's an incredible price, these sell for way over £1000 new in the UK (even in Thomann they're a bit over £1000). Brilliant head, I love mine. It's the kind of gear you'd never ever need to upgrade from, to give you an idea, this is what Flea uses with the Chillis. Gigs don't get much bigger than that. They still sound sweet at lower volumes though.
  24. ThomBassmonkey
    What bass is it and, more importantly, what's the finish? Fast fret is only meant for cleaning the strings.
  25. ThomBassmonkey
    [quote name='yorick' post='1079530' date='Jan 6 2011, 09:49 AM']Wouldn't that affect the notes along the whole string? Not just between the 13th and 21st frets..... [/quote] Wouldn't it depend on the action? Necks and strings don't run paralell, so if you play a note nearer the nut, the string would be higher at the pickup than if you were playing right up the neck. Could it be something to do with dodgy strings?
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