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ThomBassmonkey

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Everything posted by ThomBassmonkey

  1. Anything that shows people playing bass goes! One of my faves, this guy's an awesome bassist and he holds some serious groove even through the fast sections: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zqV2ymf4-k"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zqV2ymf4-k[/url] Worst, this "lesson" from "Expert Village" (sorry, had to both both those in quotes). In the guy's defense, watching the other videos shows he's more of a pianist, but it doesn't change the fact that this has been put up on youtube by a supposed expert: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A7F_FibYMg&feature=channel"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_A7F_FibYMg...feature=channel[/url]
  2. I went to LIMS on the trade day a couple of years ago and the Orange rep (could've been the same guy) was a complete...uh...I'll not say it. We were genuinely interested in getting some Orange gear in and he just didn't have the time to even say hello to us. At one point I actually thought I'd manage to get a word out of him, but he just held up the palm of his hand and started to call someone, so we left it and went to the GK stand instead.
  3. It's very unlikely it won't be 8 Ohm if you can get an 8 Ohm extension cab for it. The amp will be marketed as 100w as technically it is, you just need to attach another cab to get the full power out of it. Get a decent jack plug and it should be a fairly easy job to turn it into an extension cab.
  4. Ok, gonna open this up a little, I'm prepared to look at cash offers around the £850 mark, I'd also look at cheaper 5/6ers plus cash. Things I'm especially interested in: Musicman (Bongo or Ray, pref 2 pup version) 5/6er. G&L Tribute L2500 + cash my way. Sandberg PM5. SBMM Ray 35 + cash my way. EUB + cash my way. Something with some meaty 'buckers. Not interested in amps or FX, sorry. Open to all offers though, WHY? Come tempt me.
  5. [quote name='The Burpster' post='1076579' date='Jan 3 2011, 06:10 PM']OK so now I'm intregued, I've set up American, German and Jap basses, electrics and accoustics single and double action trussrods..... can you let me know which truss rods are not a std righthand thread....?[/quote] I can't remember offhand but I'm sure when I was researching (to make sure I did it properly on my Warwick) it was mentioned that some turned the other way. I've never personally encountered any though.
  6. Sorry mate, that's a big step down in value and I don't really use FX anyway, GL in getting your dream bass at some point though, thumbs really are awesome creatures.
  7. Ah sorry, that'll teach me not to read properly! If you mean you're having problems getting Ashtons, aren't they available through Korg's distribution? I'm sure the shop I help out at can get them in. Hartke I think can be got through JHS, though I'm just working off (poor) memory.
  8. Out of the ones in your initial post, I'd go with GK. Simply because everywhere and their mother stocks Markbass (so more competition both for sales and prices) and no one's heard of Ashton. If you're looking for more starter gear, then obviously the cruiser or mashall gear is better suited.
  9. That's strange, it's not done that before. I'm using a newish bass though, but I'm sure it's been more cranked at a gig we did before xmas (where it was insanely loud with the same bass). What could suddenly start it going and what would stop it (I assume turning the tweeter down would do it, any other options)? As cool as it looks, my tuner gives all the flashy visual FX I need. edit: just looked it up and it could be the problem, but I read on another forum that it shouldn't be an issue with the bi-amping as the tweeter amp only puts out 50w at 8Ohm (apparently GK combos don't even have the bulbs in). I just checked and the cab's definitely set to bi-amp mode.
  10. I noticed today during practice that my cab was lighting up when I played, when I played lower notes or picked gently it doesn't seem as bad, it died as the note died as well so it's definitely volume related. The actual lighting up is hard to describe, it seems to be around the rubber around the speakers and I could see it through the port, it seems to be around the top left of the cab (as you face the grille, maybe behind that speaker). It's very bright, like having a lightbulb in the back of the cab. I really don't know what to make of it, the only thing I could think of is that there's some serious sparking going on, but the cab sounds normal and doesn't smell odd, if there was that much sparking that it was lighting up, I assume something would've burned out. I used a different cab for practice then tried it again at the end and it was still doing the same thing. I'm gonna ring up Polar Audio tomorrow and see if they have any advice, obviously I'm not going to use it before they have a look at it, but thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any idea what could be causing it.
  11. I've ordered some stuff from GAK and it was horrible. I rang up two days after the items were due to arrive and they'd not even shipped yet, then the guy I was speaking to on the phone said they'd not arrived yet because of bad weather (which was crap, the weather wasn't too bad and they'd not even left the warehouse..). I tried to order some stuff off them again, but it all went tits up again, they didn't send me part of my order, then they sent me the wrong thing. In the end I just gave up.
  12. I snapped a string at the one gig I didn't take a spare bass to a while ago. Of course, just to compound it, I was using a 6er. Luckily one of the other bands was using a 5er and lent me one, it took some effort to go up and down the neck so fast in runs though. The first gig I played with my Sandberg, the batter died, so I faffed about for a chorus before figuring it out and sticking it on passive. The same gig, I malfunctioned and hit the mute switch on my pedal when I was going for distortion, so instead of my bass fattening up, it just went silent.
  13. It's worth pointing out that not all truss rods go the same way. Answers on this thread are probably right for the OP's RW, but if anyone else is thinking of tweaking their truss rod, use common sense and try it out.
  14. I'm not a big fan of the bridge or the fretboard overhang or the top really. To me a jazz is a traditional looking bass, I find when people try and make them look modern, they usually just look a bit silly. It's like taking a classic car and putting on chrome rims and a loud stereo. Of course I'm totally besotted by my Sandberg Jazz 5 though, so I may be a bit biased.
  15. Was this the bass I had a noodle with through my GK rig at the bass bash? If so, I'm amazed this is only one of the tributes, it sounded awesome, felt brilliant and the build quality was good. The beast had some real power, neither my Warwick of Dan's Dingwall even compared to it in output haha.
  16. [quote name='EBS_freak' post='1072739' date='Dec 30 2010, 02:13 PM']Why? Easy. Ashdown = woolly * runs away *[/quote] This. I've never been able to EQ any Ashdown I've ever played. They've all either been wooly and bassy or clear and tinny (or half wooly and half tinny). I've no doubt that there's exceptions to the rule, but I've not found them yet (though there are Ashdown owners on here that seem pleased). Have you tried not using the 15" cab? 10" speakers tend to be a bit punchier, or maybe the cab's interfering with the combo's speakers somehow. Whatever mine or anyone else's opinions on Ashdown, it sounds like you just prefer the sound of the Fender and it sits in your band's mix better. If you can afford to replace your amp, it's definitely something worth looking into. If you can't, try using an EQ pedal and/or compression before your Ashdown, it might help clear up the signal a bit and give you more control over where you're going in the mix.
  17. [quote name='RhysP' post='1072218' date='Dec 29 2010, 10:23 PM']Wouldn't all these things of yours be more suited to the " Performance>Recording" section, where most other people put films of themselves, rather than in the "Gear>Bass Guitar" section? Just a thought.[/quote] I've thought this too, it's a nice bass and good playing, but it is a recording and should really be in the recording section. This section is more about the actual instrument. A video or recording makes sense if you're saying "hey, look how awesome this instrument is", but after that, recordings should be in the recording section. All IMO of course. Keep posting videos though, I'm enjoying watching them.
  18. [quote name='Chris2112' post='1072091' date='Dec 29 2010, 08:12 PM']I am still perplexed by the feeling that you need something that "looks the part" for an acoustic gig. How strange! I'm not typically a fan of acoustic basses because of the issues getting them amplified properly and still sounding good. A decent electric through a good combo at a reasonable volume is always a better idea IMO.[/quote] Each to their own. I don't "need" anything, I "want" something that looks the part. I've been using my electric basses for every acoustic gig I've ever done on bass so far, I always feel a bit as though I've not made the effort. Plus I enjoy playing uprights and like having various strings to my bow, I don't think it'd hurt anything if I did get one, so I don't see the problem. Thanks for that video, Grey. I'll give it a good listen in a bit.
  19. I've had questions about the neck repair, sorry for being quite vague on it, I was busy tearing my hair out as to whether or not I should sell! Basically when I bought it, there was some fret buzz around the 6th fret on the D and G strings, the truss rod wasn't fixing it (without creating buzz elsewhere) and the action had to be raised quite a lot before it would go so I took it in to Nigel (Leicester Luthier) who (I think) defretted it and straightened the neck (I think he planed and sanded) then re-fretted it. When I originally played the bass (before handing over the cash), it was strung E-C and, playing it lightly, I had no problems (I assumed it was just a set-up issue when I played heavily), so the actual problem wasn't that severe, but I'm a perfectionist (and a heavy player) on that kind of thing and it irritated me no end to get the buzz just in that one spot so I felt I needed to have it fixed. Just to clarify, it wasn't a severely damaged neck that's been weakened by being glued or anything, it's had relatively minor (yet still expensive) work done to it. The end result is that it's a bass that's had it's fretboard shaped to suit the body. It plays superbly with a low action and no fretbuzz or clacking at all. Any featherfingers interested could lower the action even more without any hassle I expect. The other thing worth mentioning (just for completeness) is that there was some concern about the truss rod being quite tightly wound, but after Nigel did the repairs he took another look at it and the end result was that it'd be fine, it only even came up because I used to use very heavy strings (he's confirmed that it would be fine if I chose to use them again, I've become attached to mediums now though). I've set it up since getting it back and it works like a charm though so I'm happy selling it without the warning, I just don't want to miss anything. Here's a link to a live video it's used in: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD-ad7mIShE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD-ad7mIShE[/url] The signal is bass -> GK 700RB-II amp DI out -> mixer -> recording.
  20. I've done a setup on the Sandberg, it actually needs the saddles filed to get the action any lower, but it'd buzz if it were any lower, I get a bit of clack (only a little when I get carried away and go into terminator mode on the strings at gigs) at the moment anyway. It's only maybe a mil or two higher than the Warwick, there's really not much in it. I'm just being picky. I've put up the wick instead of the Sandy, so that should say it all since I really do love this bass. Ash, to put it simply, yes. The Sandberg plays 95% of the wick and after a fair old conversation with a sound guy that knows us inside out, he says it fits with the band's sound over-all (in terms of gear) and gives him more room for EQing so I'm more than happy with it.
  21. Well the NS is quite expensive for something I'd only use maybe once or twice a month at small, unpaid gigs. Obviously if money wasn't an issue, I'd go for that and it I could afford it if there really was a big difference but I'd want to know that there was a big difference. Then, from what I've read, strings often need upgrading and potentially bridge etc too (I can't remember which EUBs I've read it about, so it might not be the NS). I've also read that with a few upgrades, the Stagg is actually a pretty nice bass.
  22. I've only had bad experiences with the cheaper end of acoustic bass guitars. Even the few ok ones I've played, I just found myself thinking "it's like an electric, but it doesn't play or sound as good." so I want to avoid them really. I was more thinking about if the extra money for a 2nd hand NS is worth it for someone new to EUBs (bearing in mind that I'm confident that I'll get on with EUB fine as an instrument, just unsure if there's a big difference between the two that would make the NS worth picking up) rather than the Stagg, also wondering if anyone's played the Kala U basses, I've only seen a few videos of them and never in a band mix.
  23. I've played DBs a few times before and found them very easy to get on with. It takes me a minute or two to get used to the spacing between notes then I'm away. Just to clarify, yes, it's not actually acoustic work. Generally they're gigs that involve playing to seated pub guests, we play a slightly different set to our electric one that's centred more around the slightly slower numbers, no distortion etc. Our guitarist uses an acoustic and the drummer a kajon (sp?) so I fancy something that fits in a little more with the look of being acoustic.
  24. My band plays "acoustic" gigs fairly regularly, I've always been playing my normal electic basses for these, but I fancy something a little different. I've been considering either a Stagg or NS upright. I've seen the Kala U basses too though and they look and sound good (and would be more transportable than uprights). Anyone got any tips? I've not got a specific budget in mind yet, though it won't be a lot. By the way, when looking at EUBs, I came across this stormer. Obviously someone wasn't concentrating when they named it: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ns_design_cr4p_bass.htm"]Unfortunately named bass[/url]
  25. [quote name='harveyn' post='1071374' date='Dec 28 2010, 11:17 PM']I seem to be having trouble attaching photos is there a particular way on this site?[/quote] I think you're misunderstanding, the rules state that you [i]must[/i] state a [i]specific[/i] price. Not a range or an estimate, there must be a specific price (though you can be open to offers below it, there must be a top price you're looking for). The best way I've found to attach photos is to go to [url="http://www.imageshack.us"]http://www.imageshack.us[/url] then upload them there and use the image tags on the forum here when you post.
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