dincz

I'm thinking of modding my amp and bass to provide 9V for the onboard preamp and so avoid the problems that go along with batteries. It should be simple enough to do, so I wonder why manufacturers of amps and basses don't already offer this feature. Or do they?

Input impedance is on the low side - especially for a passive bass.

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1017186' date='Nov 9 2010, 10:13 AM']"If you're wondering why all those old amps use a standby switch, its because Fender was designing complicated amps on the cheap.[/quote] No. It's standard practice in medium and high power valve equipment (audio amps, radio transmitters etc) to allow valves to heat up before switching on the high tension. If they aren't given time to warm up, the valves' cathodes can be damaged, severely shortening their life.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1016377' date='Nov 8 2010, 03:16 PM']I'll only post the ones i'm currently using. If i posted all i had it would be a looong time consuming post... 3Leaf Audio Groove Regulator - 5 Adrenalinn II - 1 Aguilar Agro - 1 Aguilar Octamizer - 1 Akai Unibass - 1 AMT Slap Bass -1 Ashdown Chorus - 1 Ashdown Drive Plus - 2 Asdown dual band compressor - 2 Ashdown sub octave plus - 1 Barge Concepts VFB-2 - 2 [b]Behringer BDI21 - 3[/b] Behringer chorus - 1 Boomstick Bottom Feeder - 1 Boss CE-2 - 3 Boss CEB3 - 1 Boss DD-20 - 3 Boss DS-1 - 1 Boss LS-2 - 7 Boss ME-50B - 1 Boss ME-8B - 1 Boss OC-2 - 9 Boss OC-3 - 1 Boss ODB-3 - 6 Boss PS-3 - 1 Boss PW-10 - 1 Boss SD-1 - 1 Boss SL-20 -2 Boss SYB 3 - 2 Boss TU2 - 11 Boss TU-12H - 1 Boss chorus ensemble CE-5 - 2 Bugbrand Bugcrusher - 1 Catalinbread SFT (clone) - 1 Catalinbread Teaser Stallion - 1 Chunk Systems Octavius Squeezer - 1 Danelectro French Toast - 2 Demeter opto comp - 1 Devi Ever Hyperion - 1 Devi Ever Cherry Pop - 1 Devi Ever SodaMeiser - 1 Digitech Bad Monkey - 1 Digitech Bass Synth Wah - 1 Digitech Whammy - 4 Dunlop Bass Cry Baby - 3 DHA VT2 - 3 EBS Octabass - 3 EBS Multicomp - 4 EBS Dynaverb - 1 EBS Unichorus - 1 EHX Memory Man with Hazarai - 1 EHX Bass Balls - 1 EHX Bass Big Muff - 2 EHX Bass Metaphors - 1 EHX Bass Micro Synth - 4 EHX Big Muff Pi (Black Russian) - 2 EHX HOG - 1 EHX Octave Multiplexer - 1 EHX POG2 - 1 EHX Small Clone - 1 EHX Small Stone Nano - 2 EHX Small Stone (Black Russian) - 1 EHX Qtron - 1 EHX Qtron+ - 3 Ernie Ball VP-Jr - 1 Fishman Platinum Pro EQ -1 FuzzHugger ABsynth - 1 Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet - 1 Guyatone MD-3 delay - 1 Guyatone PS-3 Phase Shifter - 1 HBE Psilocybe -1 Ibanez PD7 Phat-Hed Bass Overdrive - 2 Ibanez SB 7 - 1 Ibanez WD7 Weeping Demon - 1 Korg DT-10 - 1 Korg Pitchblack - 4 Line 6 M9 - 2 Line 6 Bass Pod XT Live - 1 Line 6 DL4 - 2 Line6 FM4 - 1 Maestro Brassmaster (clone) -1 MarkBass Super Synth - 1 Marshall Guv'nor (MK1) - 1 Marshall Jackhammer - 2 Marshall Echohead - 1 Marshall Regenerator - 1 Maxon CP9+ - 1 Mellowtone Clean Chan Dirty Chan - 1 Mojo Hand Cream Pie - 1 Moog MF-101 - 3 Moog MF-102 - 1 Moog MF-105b - 1 Moog MF-107 - 2 Moog MP-201 - 1 Mr Zinky Master Blaster - 1 MXR Bass Octave Deluxe - 1 MXR Blowtorch - 3 MXR M-80 DI+ - 5 [b]MXR M-143 Limiter[/b] MXR Super Comp - 1 ProCo Tubro Rat - 2 Radial Bassbone - 1 Radial bishot io - 1 Rocktron Cyborg Reverb - 1 Sansamp Bddi - 7 SansAmp Para-driver - 1 Seymour Duncan Tweak Fuzz - 1 SFX Micro Fuzz - 1 SFX S&M - 1 Subdecay Noise Box - 1 TC Electronics PolyTune - 2 TC Electronics Nova Modulator - 1 Tech 21 VT Bass - 2 Tech 21 VT Bass Deluxe - 3 Toadworks Mr Squishy - 1 Way huge swollen pickle - 1 Yamaha OD-10 - 1 Z.Vex Woolly Mammoth - 4 Z.Vex Mastotron - 1 Z.Vex Wah Probe - 1 edit: TU-2 is leading but i wouldn't trade my Pitchblack for it. It's nice to see some 3Leaf love around here [/quote]

Would it be fair to sum up that the Aguilar is clean only up to 100W and that from there on it's more effective as a heater than as a speaker? Probably absolutely fine for anyone who's looking for dirt, but I can't help feeling that the specs are a little misleading. All academic anyway as I recently bought a Compact and am only indulging in post-purchase justification.

[quote name='markstuk' post='1013624' date='Nov 5 2010, 07:52 PM']Depending on the frequency, very much so..[/quote] The BF Compact would appear to be a bit of a freak in that respect then.

[quote name='Alien' post='1013430' date='Nov 5 2010, 04:44 PM']The fact that the driver will run out of excursion before it runs out of power handling. They've probably factored some power compression into that as well, but most speakers reach a point where they just don't get any louder as you add more power. A[/quote] Ok, thanks. That makes sense. But is it usual or even common for a speaker to run out of excursion so far short of its thermal limit?

Applying the same logic to Aguilar's new SL112, something doesn't quite add up: Specs Power Handling: 250 watts RMS, 500 watts peak Sensitivity: 99.9 dB 1W 1M Max SPL: 120db It looks like 100W should give you the cab's max SPL. What have I missed?

Just been browsing for power amps and the Behringer EPQ series look like like very good value. EPQ450 - 450W, EPQ900 - 900W. On digging a bit further, I found some more detailed specs in the downloadable Quickstart Guide. The first thing I noticed is that the advertised power ratings are peak rather than continuous (which is presumably what Behringer call RMS). [attachment=63022:Behringer_specs1.jpg] The next oddity is that the EPQ series are not really a series but totally different designs - Class D, Class AB, Class H. All they have in common are the box and the switch-mode power supply. [attachment=63023:Behringer_specs2.jpg] The thing that really puzzles me is that the EPQ900 delivers 390W (peak)/channel into 4 ohms, but 900W bridged into 8 ohms. Where do the extra 120W come from? Is this some kind of weirdness of Class H? Or have Behringer's marketing people just pulled figures out of the air?

In short, it's not just how much air you push but also how far you push it!

There do seem to be some bargains out there. For example, on paper the Behringer (yeah, I know) EPQ series look too good to be true for the price. I wonder about the power ratings though. Do manufacturers normally quote continuous power ratings or are the figures only valid for a short burst (peak/programme)?

[quote name='Soliloquy' post='1007407' date='Oct 31 2010, 03:44 PM']I've tried 'normal' poweramps in the past without a lot of success. [url="http://www.kam.co.uk/index.php?action=product&product_id=354"]http://www.kam.co.uk/index.php?action=prod...;product_id=354[/url][/quote] What was wrong with the power amps you tried? One power amp is likely to sound much like another if they can both deliver the same power.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='1000478' date='Oct 25 2010, 09:56 PM']Yes! See the chart here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=106090&view=findpost&p=989810"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...st&p=989810[/url] Note that with clean bass guitar you'll struggle to reach 450W continuous without amp clipping with amps of less than 1800W RMS output. With heavily distorted and compressed bass guitar you could hit that 450W level with a clipping 450W amp but that would take some doing! I haven't figured in power compression just as I've ignored peak output, as whilst the one hand taketh the other giveth back.[/quote] Thanks for that Alex. Looks like I'll be safe with my current amp - even if I take to bowing - that's as in Boeing rather than meeting royals. And what's the significance of the 450/1800 ratio?

Just to satisfy my curiosity, have I got this right? The Compact has a broadband sensitivity of 100dB, meaning 1W of input power produces a SPL of 100dB at a distance of 1 metre. The maximum continuous broadband SPL is 126.5dB, i.e. 26.5dB (447 times) more than is produced at 1W. Does this mean that the maximum continuous power rating is around 450W?

I just can't get comfortable using a pick. I've always played with index and middle fingers on the right hand but recently have felt the need for more attack and definition. Keeping the nails trimmed at a suitable length gives a good tone but it's uneven between the two fingers. Should I keep practising, use a compressor or give up? Or ....?

[quote name='Stingray5' post='988349' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:47 PM']Apart from my last couple of function/covers bands, I've never been in a band where I did not have a major hand in writing the material - be it a song that was 100% mine (words, music, arrangement, etc) or a collaborative effort with one or more other members of the band. The bands have been Pop/Rock, Country, Prog Rock and a sort of Jazzy-Fusiony-sortathing and I've enjoyed writing songs for all of them. I write mainly on guitar, plus occasionally on keyboards and, yes, even bass![/quote] I find a chord sequence I like and a melody pops out of the air. I give a hum/strum recording to the singer with a description of the mood I have in mind, and he writes the lyrics. Or at least I used to. I'm rehearsing covers now and enjoy it but it's not the same.

[quote name='jnrwarrior' post='987295' date='Oct 13 2010, 08:10 PM']so for this amp should i run 2 cabs that are 8 ohms each?[/quote] Yes. 2 x 8ohm cabs or one 4ohm. And you can't rewire the 2 x 15 4ohm to make it 8ohm as it contains 2 x 8ohm drivers in parallel. You would only be able to rewire them in series i.e. 16ohms.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='986642' date='Oct 13 2010, 10:43 AM']Mark is the man for grills: [url="http://www.speakergrills.co.uk"]http://www.speakergrills.co.uk[/url][/quote] I notice his grilles have an open area of 60% but I've seen others that appear to have a lot less. What effect does this have on sound? I'm guessing it would only be significant at frequencies beyond the interest of bass players.

[quote name='jnrwarrior' post='987275' date='Oct 13 2010, 07:53 PM']Right...Ive read every post and am still completly lost! Ive got a Warwick profet 5.1 Head (500w/4 ohms) and have been offered some new cabs - both Peavey - 1 is a 2X15 @ 4 ohms and the other is a 4X10 at 8 ohms. Basically will this work and will i get alot from my amp this way? Thanks in advance[/quote] If you plan to run both cabs together, you might get a lot of smoke from your amp this way The two cabs in parallel will give you 2.7 ohms - well below the 4 ohm minimum - and I read somewhere that these amps have thermal problems anyway.

[quote name='lojo' post='950746' date='Sep 9 2010, 04:51 PM']Prompted by another thread, Im wondering who uses what A/B selector pedal I might get one, to save me pulling leads, but I just want a simple switch, that wont degrade the passive signal, but does not have to reply on a PP9, which the leading brands seem to require[/quote] If you're handy with a soldering iron, get a dirt cheap on/off footswitch like this: [attachment=61279:switch1.jpg] [attachment=61280:switch2.jpeg] As you can see, there's a double pole switch inside - one pole is only used to turn the LED on and off. As you don't want any battery power, you won't have any LED indicator anyway, so you can use the second pole in the signal path. Drill holes for two more jack sockets, do some simple rewiring and bingo!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='986226' date='Oct 12 2010, 09:54 PM']Yeah, the distance from the pcikup isn't critical, but more of the wire shielded is better.[/quote] Also bear in mind that the wire used in the pickup coil is lacquered. You'll have to gently scrape off the lacquer to make a good solder joint.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='986977' date='Oct 13 2010, 03:26 PM']So far then I'm blaming the amp. You need to try a different bass into your amp and your bass into a different amp.[/quote] Sometimes a bad solder joint will show up like this. Components and their leads resonate at particular frequencies. Maybe a capacitor or resistor is vibrating when you hit a certain note or range of notes. The contacts in FX loop jacks (especially when not used regularly) can corrode slightly and also become vibration sensitive. Push a plug in and out a few times and see if it improves. Does the amp crackle if you thump it (not too hard!)?

[quote name='Delberthot' post='986300' date='Oct 12 2010, 10:53 PM']An idea I've had for some time now but am unsure how effective it would be. Would it be possible to plug your bass into a small 5 or so watt all valve guitar combo to get a 'proper' overdriven valve sound before taking a line out to your bass amp? Or am I completely barking up the wrong tree?[/quote] This will drop the voltage to a level suitable for an instrument input: [attachment=61253:1001.jpg] Edit: You won't need a 50W resistor. 10W should cover the worst case.

[quote name='cris the man' post='980617' date='Oct 7 2010, 03:15 PM']what'd you guys recommend to power an 800watt mesa boogie powerhouse 2x15? im running an eden wtx500 through there at the moment, and the tone is fantastic, but i need something a little louder, as the ol' limiter pops up on the head due to wattage and various equations that confuse me does anyone have any ideas? i'm not after a valve amp head any helps great thanks ![/quote] My garbage deleted

[quote name='alexclaber' post='980187' date='Oct 7 2010, 07:28 AM']99% correct! The power it receives will not increase but you will be able to turn the amp up a little louder (i.e. delivering more volts though fewer watts due to the increased impedance) before clipping because the increased impedance will reduce the demands on the power supply.[/quote] 100% correct! I once installed an extra power transformer in an amp to help the sagging power rails. A very dodgy solution though as there is likely to be some small phase difference between the two secondaries. And it was HEAVY! Unlike my Compact which must be almost ready for shipping.