EBS_freak

Yes! 8.4v I shall post up with multimeter reading.

Balanced armatures vs dynamics!

And does Graham still go on about how expensive IEMs are nonsense?

Ask for a quad - treb, mid, bass, bass.

There's no way I would put Minerva in the same ballpark as UE. Historically Minerva had quite a high failure rate but I don't hear so much about that any more... In fact, I now no longer know of anybody that is actually using Minerva... they've all moved onto other things. I'll repeat the same advice I tend to give on here... Save up for a UE6. If you haven't got that sort of budget, my next advice would be get a quad from Lugs. Knowing Robert's background, he knows what he's doing. He's not just shoving drivers into custom moulds, like some of the other companies I know of are. (Mentioning no names). Also, CIEM company is at the Drum Show in Manchester... so if you are interested, it may be worth getting yourself along there - there's usually free impressions and a decent discount to make it worthwhile.

And this is where bands are making life difficult for themselves. It's not really a hassle. There's a comparable amount of cables in play.. especially if you are talking about plugging amps into the mains and plugging speakers into heads. 2x735A = £1500 1x Behringer XR18 = £370 (or RCF M18 for a similar price... or even a XR16 if you don't need the extra 2 auxes) 1x Behringer P2 + 1x ZS10 per player (80 quid each) 1x kick mic = AKG £65 1x overheads = Behringer C2- £35 So for a four piece band - (assuming 4 players) - £1970 Allowing £500 for cables, stands, IEMs etc... (In reality, I guess this figure could be closer to £300 depending upon how much of a cable/stand tart you are) All the above would fit in one average car easily... and with guitars and a bass. No bass amp or cab. No guitar amp or cab - Assuming your guitarist goes into the XR18 amp emulator... or gets a pedal emulator... but even so the L6 Stomp is going to sound better in all environments because it doesn't care about being driven in a sweet spot. There's two big lumps that have been taken off stage... what was this about space being a premium? (Of course, the speakers out front are going to be there whatever... so the net result is that you've gained space for the band. Of course, less bleed into the mics, better sound out front - no dead spots out front where the guitar is either blasting your head off - or simply not there. I'd say the above is far more portable... and comes with a decent monitoring solution. No wedges to lug about... and you are going to sound better out front and be able to hear and run a monitor at sensible volumes so you won't go deaf. If anything, this is more suited to a pub setup than anything else!

That's not really minor... considering that running two 712s together would yield a 3dB gain in SPL. A single 732 giving you 2dB over a single 712 is quite some increase in SPL.

If you have a healthy budget up to £1500, I would recommend a pair of 735As above absolutely anything else in the market for the same price. Here's why - 1. 3" VC in the horn - lower crossover means the horn is doing more of the lifting work for the vocals. Don't be mistaken that horns are hissy thing meant for very high treble... a quality horn does a lot of the heavy lifting for frequencies in the vocal range. The result is, the vocals will more easily be able to be projected with those particular RCFs than from competitor speakers. You simply don't get 3" VC horns in ABS plastic boxes - and even in wooden boxes, you'll likely to be paying more like 2k a box to get a 3" horn. RCF are out there on their own with these speakers. 2. The horn enables the woofer to be freed up to concentrate on the lower frequencies... So putting bass drums, keys (with some serious low end too) through them - and bass - is not a struggle. You say that you only put a bit of keys and vocals through them... but if you keep your onstage volumes low, put everything through the PA, then you as a band collectively will sound better. Problems like guitar cabs being highly directional get eradicated. (Think about when you've seen a band play and you stand in front of the guitar players cab... you'll get deafened. Stand on the other side of the stage, you won't hear it... Going through the PA, helps disperse the sound evenly so wherever you are in the venue, you'll have a balanced sound). 3. These boxes are good enough to do most venues without subs. You need a lot of power, especially between the 100-400hz range to give things warmth otherwise your band can sound thin and tinny. They'll also give you enough in the 50-70 Hz range to thump out some kick drum (and the rest of the kit for that matter). Ultimately, I would urge you to go for the above and bring your volumes down and let the PA do the work. The 735A will easily enable you to run a silent stage even - and replace your backline altogether. Again, this will make your band sound better. The key thing is, keep your on stage volumes low and invest in those FoH speakers. If you are stuck in your ways... or if you want a more portable solution, than the compromise is the 732A. You'll lose the ability to get big bass (and I know the voice in your head is already saying "but my bass amp can do the bass" - it can - but that is also swamping the rest of the stage and flooding into the open mics that are placed in front of it...). The key figure is the middle 3 though... your vocals really will sing with that 3"VC horn. I'd use the opportunity of decent FoH speakers to make your band sound better. A lot of bands FoH speakers won't give them that sort of opportunity as they can't handle the full range of frequencies at a significant volume without sounding pants.

Are you on Mac or Windows? And is it a genuine Arduino or knock off? Have you set the baud rate appropriately?

Is this your Trustfire?

It would - but the cumulative latency is getting in a bit in that setup. (Expect about 15ms)

OK - coming from your phone, plug in a 3.5mm stereo cable. Split this to two unbalanced cables, one with a jack to go to your DI box. Plug this jack into your DI box and then from that, a XLR to the PA. The other side, with your click on, you can't just plug a set of headphones in as you'll only get it out of one ear. You could bridge but then you won't be summing correctly or presenting the correct load to your phone amp. Additionally, to control the level of the click, you would be turning up and down the volume, which won't necessarily be giving you the best signal to the PA... one feed is impacting the other. What I would suggest, ia splitting as above and then getting something like a Behringer P2 - that has it's own amplifier and will correctly sum the click. This is easy to do, just a simple insert cable, y cable... e.g. TRS (stereo) from your phone to TS (mono) and TS cable (mono). One side into your DI box and onto the PA, the other side to the P2 to do the amplification and the summing so the click comes out of both ears. What I would really suggest though, is running both the LR to the PA and sending the drummer back a mix from one of the desks auxes into a P2* *this is the correct solution.

Make sure you put your non balanced splits through a couple of isolated DI boxes. Inadvertently sending phantom power WILL kill your iPhones audio output.

The antenna are on the surface of the upper edge... so rack mounting would seriously compromise the performance of the radio.

Toys!

What charger do you use for the EBLs? Do they need a specialist charger? I remember looking at the Trustfire AA sized stuff and was always put off by the cooky chargers... the only reason I tried the 9v Trustfire is because of the familiar USB socket.

I concur - my mate introduced me to the Sontronics - I haven't bought any but he absolutely swears by them... and having heard him live, it's pretty decent! Very decent. Another D5-esque bargain.

You know what, you've got me questioning myself now. 7.4v or 8.4v. I'm away from home at the moment (where battery is) - so can't check... but will charge up the thing and give it another bash and pay more attention to what it actually read so I can tell you properly! Given it's Li-Poly I would guess it should be 7.4v and I've inadvertently posted a most unhelpful piece of information. EDIT : Confirmed as 8.4v - see later post

Can confirm the 8.4v. As a test (admittedly untechnical test), I had a couple of headphone amps running on the last gig and left them on after the gig and overnight. The Trustfire was still going in the morning... unlike the Duracell Durablock (170mAh) one.

My hero. At last somebody else is in agreement with me! The only thing going for the 58 is the fact that every engineer worth their salt knows how to eq out their deficiencies. I’d rather take a 935 over a 58 if we are going bog standard dynamics.

bubble wrap and parcel tape.

Rechargeables are still a more eco friendly way to go... despite the failures.

Seems alright - not done any die hard tests yet. I'll get the meter out at some point and measure it.

It came from lots of frustrations of trying to make lots of wireless work. (I run 13 channels of wireless in my band). So sat down and read and read, learned about intermodulation and the like, then got interested in the tech out there... and of course having a massive passion from inears, it kind of goes hand in hand when trying to co-ordinate wireless inears without stuff dropping out, or being latency bound. I have been known to have gone to the industry days (people like Shure) on wireless... "for fun". I've helped more than a few people get their wireless together, including a couple of theatre shows who had bought all the gear but could never get them co-ordinated right. I guess that I also have a habit of swotting up on stuff that interests me... and then applying it in the real world to prove to myself I guess, that I can walk the walk. Sometimes I must come across a bit smart alec.... but I've seen too many times bands just buying wireless stuff and expecting it just to work (made worse by the fact that each band member turns up with their own complete random wireless gear)... which it can if you are staying with the same brand and model of wireless... but it's when you start running completely random stuff with fixed frequencies that co-ordinating becomes a lot, lot more troublesome. I guess what I am trying to say, is if you want to go wireless as a band, you need to have a strategy - and everybody subscribes to the same way of thinking.

And for double security, gaffa over the top if you are scared of such things being exposed.