EBS_freak

Theres loads of little projects - midi controllers, dmx controllers, switchers...

Hey @stoo ! Good to see that there's other folk out there playing with this sort of stuff. Majority of stuff nowadays is programming via Pis - and the pure electronics side of things is defo becoming a dying skill. In terms of screens, you may want to be look into Nextion screens. These will give you a much larger/cost effective real estate than OLED to play with and give you the option of nicer graphics / animations and just receives pushes data to/from the arduino over serial. (You will lose your debugging capability to your IDE unless you have 2 serial busses available). The other cool thing is that if you do decide to add any programming functionality to your project, then you have a nice touch screen interface to play with.

https://guitar.com/news/t-rex-engineering-declares-bankruptcy/amp/?fbclid=IwAR26rKS47Fe2YQDvcfnCts4F6WdLZxsfQcyr1ktCsGJz1dyRH7-iQCnk2-o

OK going through your post - Is the distribution unit a one to many headphone amp? If it is, you are all going to be sharing the same mix... which is a huge compromise to start with. As you may have read, you ideally want a minimum of an aux each, which will give you your own individual mono mix. Stereo is better... but mono is better than nothing! I'm guessing with an A&H you are looking at one or maybe two prefader auxes... again, this will compomise things greatly for you. I would give the UI16 another go - the connectivity problems are going to be down to the useless onboard wifi systems that the manufacturers bundle with their routers. Literally any old 5Ghz router that you can find, new or old (have you got any old internet routers from home knocking around?) are pretty much guaranteed to solve any connectivity problems that you have got. You are right though, using the UI16 as a monitor mixer is going to be infinitely better than what you'll be able to do with the analogue desk. If you are wanting to use a true monitor world/front of house split desk setup, you are going to be looking at investing in some analogue splits and looms so you can split the signals between the two mixers. Honestly though, I think you'd be better off revisiting the UI16 and using that as your only mixer.

Im now completely confused.

Whats the budget?

Powering one is not bad... you have phantom! Whats the issue that you are trying to address- I remember we spoke briefly about it.. but can't remember the detail!

Not for me - but thanks for the in-depth review! But then again, I don't think I would use them in the manner in which you would - I'm all about everything through the PA, no backline!

If your monitors can't fit into your glove box, then you aren't doing it properly :p

Hey Andy - sorry about the delay (didn't want you to think that I had glossed over your entry - but my battery died on my phone mid response) - with regard to the limiter, a lot of external IEM specific limiters I don't find to be that great. Most of them are simply a device that stop you from turning the volume up rather than introducing any particular sort of compression before hitting a limiter. With regards to a recommendation, if you want a true brick wall limiter, set a fast attack 20:1 with a hard knee compressor on the aux buss(es) of your digital mixer. (You could do this by using an outboard limiter if you haven't got a digital desk... but with the cost of an XR18 now, just get one already if you haven't!) Hope this helps!

A few questions - are you running any ambient mics? And more importantly, are you running in stereo? A stereo ambient mic should alleviate all your problems. Can you tell us more about your setup? Running with one inear in and one out isn’t ideal - especially from an ear safety point of view. You tend to over compensate on volume and end up blasting your IEM loaded at dangerous levels. If it’s the sensation of wanting to “feel” big air from an amp... give us a bit, me and super @intime-nick are working on that as we speak. The potential production candidate board is looking awesome. Should have the board design going off to be CNCed any time now. Then it will be a case of making sure they are fine and dandy!

A man of taste! That’s my American Burr Walnut Spitfire. An absolute awesome bass.

You wait til you ditch the tips for the custom fit... another significant improvement waiting for you! That Can't Stop Playing track is one that separates the men from the boys in the bass department! 😛

I know it's disappointing - but in reality, it's the best thing. A lot of people would go ahead and take the impression anyway. There is no point in having an impression taken with wax build up - you'll end up with a useless impression... or even if it does go forward to build, you'll end up with an less than perfect fit. This then causes further disappointment and delay and hassle for everybody involved... shipping back, refits, etc etc... Best to get the impression right from the word go. Yes, some impressions will still result in a less than perfect build - but they are ultimately a lot more rare and easier to deal with and put right than one sources from a duff impression. Anyway - did you manage to audition and choose an IEM? If so, what did you go with?

Don't get me started...!

Plastic nuts on the jacks 😞 otherwise, looking great

Im guess it's for better matching to various amplifiers. Some of Hartke's amps go down to 2 ohm, whereas it's probably fair to say that most amps go down to 4 ohm. By having their cabs switchable to 8 ohm, it makes it more friendly for attaching multiple cabs to 4 ohm stable amps.

Indeed it was!

Maybe - the original post did specifically say single driver cabs though.

I seem to recall it was accugroove?

I think that’s down to the series or parallel wiring of the speakers as opposed to the coils.

voice coil tap

@intime-nick - I'm guessing you have something earmarked for that slotted rack panel... that is a lot, lot more interesting...?

It is - if you put the rack ears on backwards, thats what you get. If you've routed everything to a patch panel, then jobs a goodun - risk of a costly board mounted failure is virtually eliminated. All Nick will have to worry about now, is the cheaper replacements of chassis connectors and the cables attached to them. Proper rackin'

Which is why I commented that the Mackie system is by far the most intuitive and easiest to learn straight away!