EBS_freak

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1498662279' post='3326190'] How cool to be televised! Was that the charity all-dayer at the tickled trout? [/quote] You saw it? I thought nobody had tuned in! My wireless failed pre DI1 too. Thems be the breaks.

I've been in a few situations where the sound man has insisted on pre rig / pre pedal DI... One being a massive function where we were running through 2 hours straight and another which was a live television show. It kinda makes sense - when I asked the TV sound guy about the reason for 3 DIs... he said, if anything fails along the line, I want to make sure I can get something out as opposed to silence. "DI3 is my favoured feed (with amp model), DI 2 is post your pedals, DI is straight after your bass. If you modelling sounds sh*t, I can do something with DI2... and if your pedal board goes to sh1t, I've always got DI1. If anything else were to fail, start looking after your gear more mate or consider another career..." (was something like how the conversation went).

The P16ms are great pieces of kit - in true Behringer stylee it's pretty much a rehash or the Aviom and A&H ME1s. Great because you don't use up auxes as you say.

This is where a RTA and 31 band EQ on your PA can work. The rooms that you are in have resonant peaks - the 31 band eq will help solve that. Then, if there's any hot notes, which there shouldn't be because the RTA and tuning phase should fix that, you can then apply a separate notch filter (either back on the 31 band eq or a separate EQ pre the output) to the problem note(s). This should give you a lot more volume before feedback. With regards to the bass, plugging the sound hole as suggested would be a good start. Ive seen guys with 335s fill the bodies with newspaper... that could be an avenue to explore if all else fails.

In addition to what tonyf has said... the UE900 cables are not reusable on a reshell (different connectors) - so allow another 80-100 pounds for ear impressions and cable. I know it sounds a lot - but you'll effectively have a set of UE custom quads at approx half the price... so defo still worth the investment. I would whole heartedly recommend going custom over sleeves too. Tips never really worked for me - comply tips are pretty much the standard tips that you will mentioned again and again... but foam tips tend to disintegrate as you have found... and they can be a pretty expensive consumable in running IEMs. The silicon tips last a lot better - but again, it depends how well they fit for you. People with sweaty ears may struggle with them staying in, especially if you tend to move around a lot. Save for the custom moulds... it's night and day and you'll wonder how you ever gigged without them. I keep saying it.. but consider your IEMs as a replacement for your cab... less than 500 quid for a cab doesn't seem that unreasonable does it?

Thats going to take some epoxy and fine maple wood dust to get back to looking like original. A good luthier should be able to make it invisible/near invisible. If it's a lacquered neck, you're have to have the poly reblown in.

[quote name='bubinga5' timestamp='1498223605' post='3323256'] Schack are/were German weren't they [/quote] Schack are German. The son (Nico) is now the builder... and still immense basses.

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1498166777' post='3322973'] I'd guess they're a split mono output, they're really just headphone amps to plug and instrument cable straight into but that suits my purposes fine. As long as the output is a little better than my Zoom B3 and it's reasonably transparent, it's a winner for me. [/quote] Sound good to me! Let us know how you get on!

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1498073314' post='3322395'] In my ongoing attempt to go fully ampless but on the cheap, I've just pulled the trigger on an EHX headphone amp. Not overly keen on the downward facing input jack but I might just have to run the cable under my strap to keep it under from popping out. I'll post my thoughts once it arrives and if I remember! [url="http://www.ehx.com/products/headphone-amp"]http://www.ehx.com/products/headphone-amp[/url] [/quote] I've looked at these before - but I'm pretty sure that they are mono (with the signal split between the two ears on the output) Cool pedalboard attachment though.

What do they look like? Have you got a pic?

Man, I know I'm a fan anyway... but this may be one of Bernie's finest looking ever. I'm not usually big into single cuts but wows...

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1498032511' post='3322042'] Completely off topic but in old Black Widow speakers the glues tend to break down over time. The glues are used to hold the dust caps on and fix the corrugated surrounds to the speaker frame. It's a simple repair to ease tehm off then stick them back with a latex based glue like Copydex. just be careful not to pull the cone off centre when you glue the surround. [/quote] Is that applicable to Pavey Black Widows? Or is it just Peavey Black Widows?

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1498034277' post='3322058'] A car designer doesn't care which make of tyre you put on his car [/quote] Well....

Should find something here - http://uk.farnell.com/c/fasteners-mechanical/knobs-accessories/prl/results?shaft-diameter=6.35mm

[quote name='SH73' timestamp='1497986314' post='3321840'] When I was in late teens I owned a black widow Pavey.The sound tech turned my bass down coming out the PA so I just turned the Pavey right up onstage.The gig was in a medium sized theatre and Pavey was loud enough for the circumstances. Stuff you sound techs. [/quote] Was that some sort of rip off Peavey?

Here's some fun figures... for the average person, the maximum acceptable latency at your ear, is 10ms. That means that as soon as you exceed that, you'll notice a big disconnect between what you are playing and what you hear. The average latency for bluetooth is in the region of 30ms... so instantly, you will see that this is a non starter for IEM. Couple with the fact that the OP is using a Smooth Hound - which has terrible latency figures for a wireless system (8ms vs the typical figures of 3ms and below for it's competitors), the OP is on to a bit of a loser from the word go. In fact, having done some investigation into the OP's bluetooth device - the latency is 40ms. So with a Smooth Hound and Bluetooth solution, you have approaching 50ms latency from those two devices alone... Are you going through a digital desk? Expect to add anything between 0.5ms and 3ms latency. What about digital fx pedals? again, 0.5-3ms per pedal... and in particularly processor heavy functions - such as pedals that transpose (excluding octaves), expect to at least double that. So what BigRedX is saying is true - however, on higher end systems, there are some incredible advances where the audio does stay in the digital domain - there's dedicated Dante PCIe cards that allows for a round trip of digital comfortably under 1ms. Its far from cheap though. But once you are in this domain, you can run through specialist plugins with uber low latency (think figures around 2ms - many of which are run in parallel - so round trip within the digital domain is well under 4ms post all processing). Add the desk latency and you are still way, way under the 10ms target for IEM monitoring. So, for example, if you were using a pro digital desk (Digico, A&H iLive, Avid etc...), something like a Shure ULXD and say some Wave plugins, your could get your bass sounding whatever your wanted at under 5-6ms latency. The ONLY acceptable digital IEM system is the newly introduced Lectrosonics Duet IEM - [url="http://www.lectrosonics.com/US/Wireless-IFB/category/218-iem-in-ear-monitor.html"]http://www.lectroson...ar-monitor.html[/url] - (latency figures are incredibly low for a digital wireless - 1.4ms for analogue sources, 1ms for digital (Dante)) expect to pay over 2k a channel... and in the UK, you will need a specific event or fixed site license as it is only available in frequency ranges that fall outside of the normal channel 38 and 70 license range. All other IEM solutions are analogue - like your standard FM radio. There are some IEMs that proclaim they are "digital" - in reality, that refers to the DSP that happens on the audio whilst it is in-between the radio transmission phase of the process - that radio transmission - yes, it's analogue, purely to keep the latency figures down. With regard to digital over WiFi - the process is similar to analogue with the exception that instead of a compander (that squishes the signal into a payload that will fit in the available bandwidth) at the transmitter and a decompander at the receiver end (that tries to restore the signal to be comparable to the original signal pre-compander), it goes through two lots of digital/analogue conversion (with the resulting radio transmission transmission being digitally encoded). The advantage is that there is enough bandwidth to convert the analogue to digital and vice versa with no discernible loss of quality - however, you will introduce latency into the transmission as this conversion takes place. If you look at the specs of wifi compared to bluetooth, the available data transfer rate is 10 times that of bluetooth... hence you can soon understand why bluetooth has an impact on overall quality. Its worth noting that it's the quality of the compander that you pay for in analogue systems - some are great... some are terrible... and on bass, the first thing you'll notice on a cheaper system is the lack of low frequencies. On top end systems, you can actually cram a lot more channels of audio into the same radio spectrum... which means you can run channels of wireless systems in a smaller frequency range... and you can also encrypt... which means that people can't tune into the radio frequency and eavesdrop. Not so much of a problem for music... but it could be for conference rooms etc. In short, BT is handy for phones and streaming audio - but it's a no go for real time performance. Go get a decent set of wired headphones!

I kinda see it from all angles. DI is simple, quick to change over... and any sound guy should be able to get a great bass sound from it because it hasn't be swamped with stupid amounts of low end, or nasally treble. Amping is great but what you hear on stage may not sound good in the mix. At all. If you are going through a PA, then your amp is your monitor. I can pretty much guarantee that the sound you want for your monitor to hear yourself, is not what you want to hear out front. Modelling - if you must have your sound, get a modeller... and then you can send all your modulation, overdrive etc... to the front of house. If you think that modellers don't cut it compared to your amp... well, you need to check them out again... because on a gig, you'd never notice the difference between an amp generated tone and the modelled tone. Maybe in the studio... but live, no way. The greatest way to get a good sound is to leave it to the sound guy (assuming that he isn't complete tosh - then you are on to a loser regardless). They know the PA, they know the room... and they have the ears out front. OK, your bass may not have the same grind or fx as on the record... but the truth is, most people in the audience won't notice/care. A big bass sound is a big sound with or without distortion... but a clean guitar vs a distorted guitar are two very different things. Of course, you want everything to be perfect... but in multi band setups and the like, it's just not usually practical. This is why a lot of bands have their own soundguy - you've schooled them on what you want... and they are paid to get it. Very different to when you are passing through a small time venue.

[quote name='DaytonaRik' timestamp='1497885754' post='3321112'] Well - the A3s arrived and it was straight upstairs to try them with some audio - my word! It's like seeing an Imax cinema screen after watching a black and white TV. I can hear things in a mix that were just background noise before - bass lines pop out and become easy to distinguish, vocals sit pretty much in the front of the mix too. I really can't wait to try these at a rehearsal soon. Worth every single penny. I never had a problem with the fit of the 215s and the generic olives but these are something else. The Custom IEM Co turned the order around inside 2 weeks too. I've back to back tested them with my 215s and I'm not even sure I want to use those for audio either - I feel very spoiled! [/quote] Nice one. I'm pleased that you get it. Its really hard to describe how night and day a set of customs are compared to the 215s. Not saying the 215s are bad per se, it's just that as soon as you get into the custom multi driver realm, things REALLY start to take off. Enjoy!!

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1497362238' post='3317534'] Same issue here - I send mine back as the jack came loose - lost a screw or something, now it feels loose again. I keep mine in a bag now with the jack folded back on itself but obviously you have to move the hinge to get the batteries in and out. I am not that active on stage, and gig about 20-30 times a year (but practice with it every week). It does seem like a weak spot [/quote] Seriously? Man.

What are you doing to it for it to break?

Heil PR20 is a good all round mic, sounds great, not too expensive (compared to whats out there) and good feedback rejection.

Looks like a rattle can finish to me. I would expect a bass like that to have a polyester finish. If you want to get it back to a stock look, then you'd need to strip it and then send it off to a company that are set up for the two pack polyester process... somebody like Bow Finishing or Martin Sims. Not cheap, but the finish will be flawless.