EBS_freak

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1490305480' post='3264248'] I will have to update to the latest software then! Thanks [/quote] Sounds like it - I did some reading last night. The original firmware only allowed for one iPad to be connected. If you update the firmware, it seems that you can use two ipads simultaneously running QuPad. You can connect a further 6 iPhones/iPod Touch for using QuYou (monitor mix). It looks like you can also connect QuControl but I don't know how useful to you that will be. Seems like the desk knows that you are running QuPad and the software has a coded limit on the number of iPad connections to the desk. (Sucks a little) Also worth a mention, you can use Android for monitor mixes (there's a QuYou app) - and although unsupported by A&H, theres https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.davidgiga1993.mixingstation.ah_qu (limited to 1 connection) and https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=phone.TouchAndMix - but I know very little about the latter as I'm an Apple guy.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1490296838' post='3264126'] Amen to that - big love for Mr H. [/quote] I'm blushing!

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1490296799' post='3264125'] How does the iPad mixing work then? I've got two so no problem on that front! For me the real attraction with the ME 1 is the built in ambient mics. Being wired is not a massive issue for me. [/quote] The app basically gives you a gui with a load of sliders so you can control the mixer remotely. Mimics what's on the desk - if you move the sliders on the iPad, they move on the desk and vice versa. Download it and give it a go. There's a monitor app that gives you access to the auxes from you iPhone. (If you have one) As for ambient mics - a couple of Behringer C2 condensers for less than 50 quid. Sorted. Of course you could spend more but for ambient mics who cares? For just over a hundred quid, you can run a studiospares headphone and an a couple of condensers and control the mix from your iPad.

[quote name='Danj' timestamp='1490294296' post='3264087'] Just would like to add a big public thank you to Russ (EBS Freak) for his help on PM. Really appreciated - one question and response and he cuts through all the confusion and options with some common sense IEM wisdom! Cheers Dan [/quote] No problem - glad to help. I just want to be able to help people get to their end game in the cheapest way possible. I've spent far too much money in this IEM game and any way that I can help others is a pleasure!

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1490293453' post='3264078'] Not wanting to turn this into a QUmix fest, but is there any way of using more than on tablet (ipad, phone or whatever)? I cannot manage it. I used a Mackie DL for a couple of years and it will run up to 10 tablets. So useful [/quote] You should be able to just keep connecting. I seem to recall it does 8 but only 2 iPads concurrently. At one point it was only 1 iPad and that was it - I think it was to urge people to go for the GLD.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1490287885' post='3263997'] We have just invested in an Allen & Heath QU 16 desk so very tempted now to invest in the A&H ME-1 as the solution for my IEM. Has anyone used one of these and can give any feedback/experience? [/quote] They are fabulous - used them with my GLD80 - although they are still £430 (they were more than that when they came out) and if you haven't got a requirement not to use the auxes on the desk, I'd still be tempted to do your mix via an iPad. The ME1 is a nice piece of hardware but only really comes into it's own if you want to run loads of them. I think on YouTube theres a video where each symphony orchestra member has their own mix controllable via their own ME-1. For that, it's absolutely brilliant. If you do get one, it's going to lock you into the A&H ecosystem - and you are still wired after £430 quids worth of investment. If you haven't got an iPad things may be different... but in that case, I'd be tempted to go down CeX and buy a used iPad for for circa £150. My advice, save the cash and buy an EW300 then you can use it on other desks. But if you don't, the ME1 is ace regardless. Just gone through phone - keyboard player here with the aforementioned.

Here is the link to this headphone amp at Studiospares. [url="https://www.studiospares.com/Headphones-and-Speakers/Headphone-Amps-and-Splitters/Studiospares-HA20-Headphone-Amp_449760.htm"]https://www.studiosp...-Amp_449760.htm[/url] This is a perfect companion for somebody wanting to use OBBM's IEM/instrument combo cable and wants to have a headphone amp next to their bass amplifier. Link to OBBMs magic cable is here - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/303154-obbms-rock-wire-iem-monitor-cables/"]http://basschat.co.u...monitor-cables/[/url] The combination of both is probably one of the cheapest ways to get a good, solid, usable solution - without cables trailing everywhere. Comments on this headphone amp - It's a bit nicer than the Millenium HPA... and the K&M attachment should be just the ticket to mount to a stand somewhere (e.g. for a drummer, percussionist, mic stand whatever! PS - if you have come here from the affiliates section (OBBM's cable) and interested in getting into IEMs, get reading from the start... all your questions and more will be answered.

This insurance money - isn't it to replace the neck? This claim seems fraudulent if you are you making purchases elsewhere in addition to getting the bass repaired with a new neck. And people complain about ever raising premiums.

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1490187785' post='3263003'] Thank you EBS Freak! Now to find someone who can solder for me.... [/quote] Just for completeness, if you have rear racks in your case, some have a rail set back which is useful for securing cables too... or even power supplies. I tend to use block type power supplies so I can ditch the wall wart types and cable tie the replacement psus to the rails. I think in one of the pics I posted earlier, you can make one out on the left. I tend to use abcproducts on eBay as they have proven to be really light and I've never had one fail on me... and you can always daisy chain your DC devices off to that supply (just watch how much current you are drawing and don't exceed the output that the psu can supply. [url="http://www.abcproducts.com/abc-products-mains-adaptor-adapter-power-supply-for-pure-dab?filter_name=12v%20adapter&filter_description=true&filter_sub_category=true"]http://www.abcproduc...b_category=true[/url] These are particularly great if you start adding DC devices to your racks - e.g. wireless, midi controllers, pedals, loopers etc.

Ah! Posted in the other thread... hopefully all you need is in there. EDIT -> link to the thread in question - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/299354-power-amp-rigs/page__view__findpost__p__3263001"]#91[/url]

The rack panel - something like - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1U-RACK-PANEL-DP28777-Punched-4-x-D-Type-holes-XLR-Neutrik-XLR-Powecon-etc-/221675330450"]http://www.ebay.co.u...c-/221675330450[/url] For the rack panel - 1 x Neutrik NAC3MPA-1 (Powercon connector - in) 1 x Neutrik NL4MP (Speakon out) 1 x Neutrik NJ3FP6C-BAG (Locking 1/4" jack socket) 1 x Neutrik NC3MD-LX B (DI Out) 4x Neutrik SCDR (Boots for covering the connectors cabling) For attaching the chassis connector units to the rack panel- [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]M3 Nylon bolts and M3 Screws (hex socket head)[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then, for audio path, DI, I would suggest van damme mic cable, for instruments van damme instrument cable.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For the speaker, just use some standard 13A mains cable - and you'll need to solder on either a speakon or jack depending what your amp uses.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For DI, solder a NC5FXX, and the other to the appropriate chassis connector.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For instrument, solder a NP2X to the cable and the other to the instrument in chassis connector.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]For the power, find a donor IEC cable... cut off the plug and and crimp the cable ends to the powercon connector leaving the IEC connector intact. Plug in a 1 to 2 (or a Y) IEC cable to go between the two units. Alternatively, you can crimp to IEC cord together at the powercon connector.[/font][/color] Note - the boots need to be put on the cable before you solder the ends! Once the boots are on, tie them on tight with cable ties. Guessing you already have the rack screws and nuts to connect the rack panel? Notes - In the above examples, I have only used a boot for the power as the whole wiring is encased behind a solid row of rack panels. Also assuming you have some heatshrink to put over the solder joints and a soldering iron.. and solder! And the skills to solder! Tip - for the nyloc nuts, use long ear pliers whilst screwing in the bolts from the other side. I use a screwdriver type hex attachment instead of an allen key as it can be fiddly turning the key compared to screwdriver.

Very simple. Give me a sec. EDIT - are both units IEC in - and what would the third unit be?

[quote name='Clarky72' timestamp='1490139824' post='3262657'] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]So I want to make my rack tidy, gotta love a bit of OCD. It'll be a simple power amp and preamp combo, with space for another 1u in there for future tweakery. I want a back plate with power, guitar in, DI and speaker out. Something like the pic below.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]I like the idea of a single powercon socket for all items in the rack. Anyone know how to do this or someone who could make it for me even??[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [/quote] ^ The power wiring in this is horrific! Done a fair few of these now - What are you trying to rack? It's all about getting rack panels, hex bolts and nyloc nuts, lots of solder, neutrik chassis mount components... adapters, cable... I can give you some direction if you can tell me what you want?

Not bad. My purchases should land today so shall update - not that it's going to be particularly exciting!

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1490135816' post='3262609'] Ah! ha ha! No, I should have said.. Fischer stick goes on my belt. Love that thing! Especially being able to drive a stereo or mono signal down a single XLR cable locked in place. Plenty of steam for driving BIG earphones too. [/quote] I'm guessing thats unbalanced if you are doing stereo down a single XLR?

Dood - do you mount your Fischer stick on that? Or did you go with something different?

I've had similar - when EBS changed to making the pedals in China, they changed the switch to this... which is a bit naff and prone to breaking - the old one wasn't. It's an easy enough fix though - you don't need an exact like for like replacement (in fact, you should use the opportunity to upgrade the switch to a far more robust one!) - just solder on flying cables between the switch and the board.

Dood! My OCD would drive me mad if the headphone amp was on it's side!

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1489402923' post='3256552'] <SNIP> [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Noticed that the Millennium Thomann headphone amp (clearly a Chinese rebranded operation) has appeared at Studiospares in a nice natty red colour....[/font][/color] </SNIP> [/quote] As a continuation of this, I've now bought one... and one of these - so the headphone amp can be mounted for the drummer/percussionist via one of the many stands they seem to have hanging around in their general area. Anybody interested in doing anything similar, the above is a K&M KM238. PS - you will also need a 3/8" to 5/8" thread converter if you are planning to use with the above headphone amp. Hope this helps somebody - probably easier for a drummer to be able to reach for the volume knob on this thing as opposed to a wired/wireless pack on their body. Also, you probably want to but a headphone extension cable unless the drummers headphone cable is really long...

[quote name='NancyJohnson' timestamp='1489403683' post='3256559'] Cheers for the information lads. I've pinged an email over to Sims. I think the first one would be my Lull (bolt-on) and I've enquired about my Hamer/Gibsons as these are set necks. I'm OK with having a microswitch on the front of these basses and there's bound to be space inside the control cavities to accommodate a couple of PP3s. [/quote] If you don't want a switch, there's always a push/push or push/pull pot option.

Harvest stuff is amazing, especially their bags.

Also thought... if you don't rear mount, there's always the option of making the connector look a little more pretty...