EBS_freak

What an interesting turn of events @Al Kroweh?

I've seen that on Bass Direct. Bug bear of mine. "Absolutely mint" then further down in the description, chip near the jack socket and buckle rash.

Every time that I think about replying, @cheddatom already got there. The key point is, times have changed... and as pointed out, people find it hard to acknowledge privilege. The fact that a lot of us were born in the UK affords us with a lot of privilege from the word go, no matter where about on the economic scale you exist.

Just checking - I can still stand by my statement then?

But look at the percentage change in the value of that property versus wages and that's where your argument goes to stinky poo.

Bizarrely enough - my mate has one of those Elgato pedals and its use never crossed my mind! Glad you got it sorted!

For pro - polishing wheel. Although I wouldn't recommend this without experience as the risk of burning through the finish is very high. By hand - car polish and lots of elbow grease. Something like Meguiars deep crystal polish. Just keep going untli you get it to the level of gloss you want. Again, work evenly across the neck rather than concentrating in one area to avoid burn through.

Seriously impressive stuff. Loved those demos - and as stated above, the use of CXM1978 was a smart choice for visually displaying what was going on. This controller deserves to do well.

I like the low tech version of an analogue watch under the mouse.

On first glance, I thought it was the Reslo UD1 - but on closer inspection, I think I'm wrong. Any fellow mic geeks that can help out with an ID on Jarvis' mic here?

it’ll be a TRS. So for example, look at an insert cable (one trs to two ts on a y cable) to use a volume pedal.

and in chrome for comparison - midiumpagechrome.mov

Lightning fast in chrome. Chronic in safari. midiumpage.mov

I guess it would be a suck it and see thing then!

There’s a length restriction on USB. Think the spec says it’s only about 2 metres. You can power a board independent of USB (usually from a 3.3 or 5v supply) however, you will still need that long data run to your computer… which will knacker your design.

Just check you buy a board that is compatible (e.g. of being a USB keyboard). I haven't checked that board above (it may not - EDIT - it is). That's literally just to show you the pin outs. Off the top of my head, I think it's Leonardo arduinos (and knock offs) - a compatible board is probably named in that initial link

They are usually a solder point... typically D2, D3, D4... GND is the ground. So it will be (in the case of pin2 ) a cable soldered to D2 on the board -> the other end of that cable soldered to one side of the unlatched switch . Then... another cable soldered to the other side of the switch -> and then the other side of that cable soldered to GND) (there will be three switched soldered to GND in the end.

#include "Keyboard.h" //declaring button pins (this is where you solder your momentary switches to - other side of switch goes to ground) const int buttonPinA = 2; const int buttonPinA = 3; const int buttonPinA = 4; int previousButtonStateA = HIGH; int previousButtonStateB = HIGH; int previousButtonStateC = HIGH; void setup() { //declare the buttons as input_pullup pinMode(buttonPinA, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(buttonPinB, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(buttonPinC, INPUT_PULLUP); Keyboard.begin(); } void loop() { //checking the state of the button int buttonStateA = digitalRead(buttonPinA); int buttonStateB = digitalRead(buttonPinB); int buttonStateC = digitalRead(buttonPinC); ////////// button A if (buttonStateA == LOW && previousButtonStateA == HIGH) { // and it's currently pressed: Keyboard.press(32); // ASCII character for space delay(50); } if (buttonStateA == HIGH && previousButtonStateA == LOW) { // and it's currently released: Keyboard.release(32); // ASCII character for space delay(50); } ////////// button B if (buttonStateB == LOW && previousButtonStateB == HIGH) { // and it's currently pressed: Keyboard.press(97); // ASCII character for a delay(50); } if (buttonStateB == HIGH && previousButtonStateB == LOW) { // and it's currently released: Keyboard.release(97); // ASCII character for a delay(50); } ////////// button C if (buttonStateC == LOW && previousButtonStateC == HIGH) { // and it's currently pressed: Keyboard.press(98); // ASCII character for b delay(50); } if (buttonStateC == HIGH && previousButtonStateC == LOW) { // and it's currently released: Keyboard.release(98); // ASCII character for b delay(50); } /////////////// previousButtonStateA = buttonStateA; previousButtonStateB = buttonStateB; previousButtonStateC = buttonStateC; } This should be the easiest for you to read. This will give you three buttons. When you plug the arduino on over USB, it will identify as a keyboard. Then the three buttons you click are just like pressing a key on a standard keyboard- output being through that USB connection. I'd probably use something like an ethernet cable with ethercons on the end to connect the unlatched switch box to the box housing the arduino. If you can solder, you can do this.

Easy. I've built a foot controller for a teleprompt that does space, up arrow, down arrow.... The only thing that may be an issue for you is if you want LEDs (you can get around it but there's more code involved and ideally youll need to power over the cable so you haven't got any other PSUs on stage with you. All doable though.

It showing ok in both now... but performance in Safari is super slow. It takes an age for the images to load.

Mac, running Chrome. Just checked on Safari (dont use it but thought I'd check for you anyway) and that appears OK.

You mean the "I" button?

Not that I'm nagging - I did take a look... but it did take me a while to figure out those images are infact videos! Interface looks great. Nice and responsive too by the looks of things. Clean. Nice. Good work.

Homebrew it. Found you some example code. https://docs.arduino.cc/tutorials/micro/keyboard-press easy enough to add a resistor and led to another pin put it all in a Hammond box. Neutrik d chassis socket for usb. Put in jack socket. That all lives by computer (and powered over usb) use remote unlatched switch to plug into jack socket. This lives on stage. (I personally use a stagg piano pedal type)