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Everything posted by funkgod
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" QUOTE...First up, a Wal Pro1E s/n: PB1264 that I bought from Mgauction (Mike G) over in Phoenix, only to sell it back to him a year later! Great way to meet and get to know one of the nicest persons on the planet (and who also happens to have an amazing collection of Wals too..)" Hi silverfoxnik here is another photo of that bass befor i sent it to the usa to mike, you are right what a nice guy...... the one on the left was the last pro bass made (sr number)[attachment=53849:IMAG0030.JPG]befor numbers changed to the W numbers. chris
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Hello all, bit of a warning and info wanted here. I have a SWR redhead which uses a 12ax7 (ecc83) in the pre amp. The redhead has had the valve it came with as new for 10 years with no problems. so thought it was time for a change. After a bit of a scoot around i opted for the ones on Ebay, and got a pair, as here.... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mesa-Boogie-12AX7-ECC83-Pre-Amplifier-Valve-tubes-NEW-/230402049361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item35a5084551"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mesa-Boogie-12AX7-EC...=item35a5084551[/url] I replaced my old one, and very first gig, was a sound like loud electrical fault first on louder played notes, then all the time, this was later found to be the valve VERY microphonic, and any amount of vibration would set it off, so on inspection when out it all rattley inside like a spring is bouncing against the inner case when shaken/flicked on closer visual inspection the plates dont look very well supported, and just look altogether flimsey. I dont even want to try the other one !!! Are these REAL mesa Boogie ones ?? The valvs say on them, "ENGL tube power ecc83" see pic should they not say Mesa Boogie ??. So to the point, has anyone tried these and had problems ?[attachment=53197:IMG_1230.jpg]
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Boss CH1 £35 posted and Boss CE3 CHORUS sell or trade
funkgod replied to funkgod's topic in Effects For Sale
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Boss CH1 £35 posted and Boss CE3 CHORUS sell or trade
funkgod replied to funkgod's topic in Effects For Sale
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Hello all i have 2 chorus pedals for sale, a Boss CE3...... it has to be one of the best in the uk and in fantastic condition. this really belongs in a collection, its been in my cupboard in a bag and box not used now for 20ish years and the paint still looks vibrent and fresh all the matalics are still very sparkley and has not dulled like most as you can see, the white marks by the knobs are just reflections of the pots and are not in the paint.even the bottom looks new !! its not been modded or messed around with and i have checked it all out and its in perfect working order. its the very collectable green label made in japan and the number is 494500 acording to this... [url="http://www.bossarea.com/serial/sndecoder.aspx"]http://www.bossarea.com/serial/sndecoder.aspx[/url] puts it at Dec 1984 which is strange as im sure i got it in 83 from rushworths liverpool anyway whatever the date its at least 25 years old. stupid price of only £48 which is CHEAP, tatty ones on ebay starting at £60 then post on top. there is no box, so if you have not got one in your collection this really is the one. BOSS CH1 Super Chorus. Good condition, a few bumps and scratches but perfect working order, no box £35 willing to swap any for a Boss RV3 or Boss TU 2 or 3 or boss OC2 in good condition. Both are post free, and i will pack it/them well or collect from ellesmere port cheshire. [attachment=52710:IMG_1207.jpg] [attachment=52709:IMG_1227.jpg] [attachment=52711:IMG_1209.jpg]
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Sold - thanks to everyone who contacted me regarding trades.
funkgod replied to 6stringbassist's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote name='BB2000' post='860413' date='Jun 7 2010, 09:53 PM']Actually it's interesting to read the comparison between the L2000 and the Wal. I've a pair of Mark 1 Wal's and had a L2000 tribute. I wouldn't say the L2000 sounded anything like the Wal's. Not even close![/quote] hello BB2000 i had a collection of wals, only got the one left now, and the best one i have tried, so ended up keeping it, its looking abit battered now after 20 years of playing it. when i decided to use something else live, over them 20 years i had tried quite a few basses. and the L2000 is the closest i can get to it, your right they dont sound the same, but it is the closest i have ever got to my wal in terms of power, simular mid honk, playing position, power of notes in the fast finger funk and in the slap sound, weight, sustane etc, Now yours being a tribute migh have something to do with what you say, i dont know, but there is a difference between the usa L2000 and the tributes even tho its the same electrics, i know cus one of the guys i use to teach has a tribute and by his own admition they are not the same as the early usa ones ! ( i dont know about the later usa ones) there is no doubt the wal tonal range goes from sub bass to cutting heads off treble, and the g&L cant match that, but the tone i use to play live i can almost get with the G&L and with almost the same clear punch, i have added a photo of my G&Ls both early 3 bolt and my wal, that red G&L has turned out to be a fantastic bass, and would really struggle to find a replacement for it, it has the same cut on a loud stage (11 piece) as my wal with the same sort of weight and power to the notes. Anyway again, horses for courses, etc its just what we get use too. by the way that white one looks fantastic !!! im looking for an early one with a natural neck.
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[quote name='WalMan' post='858602' date='Jun 6 2010, 01:18 AM']I love my G&L L2500 twins. They're US versions, but the Tribs are generally loved by those that take the plunge. Can't speak for the JB2, but can't speak highly enough of the L2500's even when flicked back to passive mode.[/quote] hello walman just read your gear list, and noted as your name hints at the wal do you find also that same thing between the wal and L,series G&L that you cant get from other bass's ?. And how did you get wal cust electrics under the scratch plate of the pro ?
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The simularaty of wal and L2000 comes frm the a combination of a few things, 1 is the weight of good quality woods, and both having very powerfull humbuckers in the same place and both having great quality heavy cast bridges, i know alot of other basses have the same combination, but also the tuning of the preamp and pickups can both pick out those low mid punchy frequencies as the base sound, hence that middly sound your on about, ( which i love ) GREAT for the tight funk stuff, have you tried the fender aerodyne ??? one of the guys i teach has one and thats good still has power but lighter at only 7 pounds (ish) and very well finished off, i was impressed, a fair bit more trebbley than my jazz a good slappy sound but if you roll back the treble the sound is warm, great for the walking lines, but glossy neck im afraid, anyway its an option,
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hello Steve im not sure why you came to that conclusion, G&L are regarded on here quite well from what i have read, and quite rightly so, i know its not fair to say one bass is better than another as its only that person saying so which means jack to another person, horses for courses etc, so.. Personally i think they are in the top 5 of the best PRODUCTION bass's on the planet. ok so you dont get fancy woods ( you can order tho) but as a work horse they are solid as hell verywell built, huge power, great range of USABLE tones, etc, i know some dont like the heavy basses, i love them, i struggle with light basses to get what i want out of them, i feel i have to work harder, of all the basses i have had and still have the early L2000 is the closest thing i can get to my wal, which i have been playing for 20 years now, and is very hard to get that tightness out of other basses, ( again only personel pref (dont want to start a big debate here )) When i tried a friends G&L jazz at a gig i cant remember what number it was but with the same pickups as you describe, i found the sound much tighter on a loud stage than my jazz but still abit light with less weight to it and less punch than my L2000 so felt i had to turn my amp up to get it, when i went back to my L2000 in the second half it was like jumping into a AC Cobra, its all there with less effort and less volume,with those powerfull humbuckers. i know the tributes have the same pickups, electrics bit again i miss the weight, im not saying they are light, its just the early L2000 is HEAVY.... i have just weighed both my G&L L2000 both early 3 bolt, 1 with the metal control plate for this topic and they are 5.2Kg... as a guide my thumb bass is 3.5Kg and the wal is 5Kg Regarding the neck both mine have the Jazz neck and they are perfect for me, a friend has just got a newish L2000 usa and the neck at the nut is WIDE with that thin satin laquer on the back which i dont like. My friend loves his G&L jazz and compaired to his Mex jazz and his 80s usa one, and my mex jazz its more powerfull with clear punch, the pickups are very good, and well made but do try the tribute jazz necked L2000 against it if you get the chance, you wont be sorry im waffling now arnt i.......
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I would also add then why does a Nordstrand also work to fix this issue? Good point, DUCK ANOTHER CURVE BALL ON ITS WAY........ its already been said its just a frequency thing. here is D'adaario's very handy chart showing the frequencys at notes and string tensions per set, [url="http://www.daddariostrings.com/Resources/JDCDAD/images/tension_chart.pdf"]http://www.daddariostrings.com/Resources/J...nsion_chart.pdf[/url] now i play with fingers and i dont like a tight string tension i feel it kills my notes i play using D'adaario's nickle wound 40, 60, 80, 100, when i use a 50 on the G i get more problems so to the point.... a tension thing per freq ???? mmmmmmmmm just a thought............
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im going to throw another curve ball here, just a thought, as already an on going talk here under "Technical issues" [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1324"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=1324[/url] some ways of trying removing dead spots,across the g string that have worked are truss rod tension, i wont repeat why read the above thred compleatly, The one im thinking about is applying mass the the headstock, now this works, if you have a weak g string ( yea yea funny funny) try placing the head on a bit of furniture whil playing, hay presto gone, is that cus the trapped harmonic vibrations have an escape route ?? anyway with the stingray headstock being short or just by design maybe not enough mass to the headstock could this be why more stingrays suffer with this more than other makes of bass ? MMMMMMMMM but then why would headless bass's work so well iv talked myself into a corner here havent i,,,,, bugger
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WOW... thanks for all that russ, and making the time to type it all !! i personally got alot from that, as im sure others have and will in the future as there is not alot of info out there..If any. this being the most info i have read anywhere im sure bernie will have his day soon, he well deserves it, his commitment to the art is very commendable, as you say intrest is booming and so will the prices of all his early basses as collectors will want a piece of the "early days 150" history, a shame for us fans of bernie basses, but for him its good business. mmmmmm think al go and polish mine.. Thanks again
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Hi EBS FREAK some questions would be !) what time did lowden make goodfellow basses 2) which models were made. 3) from what, and to what serial numbers would be handy 4) the differences between the lowden and bernies ones. here is what im led to belive so far. the lowden ones were player models ?? they had metal tuning pegs and not bernies wood ones ?? lowden ones dont have the sandwich layer under the headstock facing which are green on some of bernies ?? how much of this is true ?? Anyone ??
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Does anyone have some factual info on the goodfellow Lowden connection, as there seems to be some confusion here.
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Hello i have sent you a message
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[quote name='Jigster' post='773853' date='Mar 13 2010, 08:19 PM']is this the tribute series - or do u have a US model?[/quote] hello both are usa, the natural one on the left is a 1989 with the rare "leo fender" signiture on the headstock he was asked to remove it by fender i belive, the red one on the right is an earlyer one just as they changed the headstock and has a different preamp chip, same sounds bit more attack in the higher mids so great for that HONK slap sound. more of a NAAAHH really !! both are very heavy, which i like (and use too from comming from the wal !) the stingray is alot lighter and feels abit flimsey and dare i say it ....cheap !! in comparison which to be fair it is, the g&L is as solid as a tank as any G&L owner will tell you. as "dub junkie" has said you need to get them on stage playing loud,on the stingray it frustrates me trying to get the bottom end to sit tight any one who has a tried a stingray and then a wal or a L2000 will know exactly what i mean, there is that "wooly" low i hate, the g&L on the other hand just leave everything flatt on the EQ and the bottom end is like a bass drum going off its as tight as a gnats chuff and will give any band a SOLID ground i use a swr 500 pro with a swr 6X10 for big gigs and a swr red head for the smaller gigs even through the 2x10 redhead its a bigger sound with the g&L, as the 2x10s are not trying to push the low wooly signals of the stingray, just a much more compact sound of the G&L, that my personal take on it,
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The G&L every time, all the guys i know who have had stingrays have or is looking to switch to the g&l there is no doubt it is a natural progression, and the quality and sounds are better, all the stingrays i have had suffer from a weak G string volume and there is not a dam thing you can do about it, i know we have covered this in another thred. i have just retired my wal after 20 years of abuse and the L2000 is the closest thing in terms of power, tightness, range of sounds that i can get, it does everything with power. the red G&L in the pic is an early one, and i use it all the time now and is the dogs. the dam thing is just ALIVE !! with a slap sound that will pin you to the back wall. [attachment=44724:IMG_1066.jpg]
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[quote name='green' post='765742' date='Mar 6 2010, 12:10 AM']OH NO !!! better don't do that again ! there are magnets inside your pickup. ferromagnetic materials have a so called curie-temperature. if you heat them above that, they lose their magnetic properties. for alnico magnets, this curie temperature is at about 860°C, but you shouldn't heat it above about 500°C or you will wreck it. folks, whatever you do: never heat or smash your pickup with a hammer ! you will ruin it ![/quote] hi green, my fault for not explaining better, when i said i heated it up, sorry should of said, i heated it up only enough to wharm the wax around the pole, so not very hot at all, my choise was... what the hell worth a try as i was going to get another pickup anyway as i could not live with it the way it was. anyway as said it did not work for reasons stated. but dropping the 4 middle ones is a vast diff on mine, it still has not got the power or tonal range of the G&L. but then again horses for etc,