Bassnut62

I had a USA one for a year or two when they first came out in '90s. I wanted it for all the reasons mentioned above. It was a good bass and I hoped the 2 Js at bridge and active leccy might give something approaching Stingray. In the end I found it a little lacking in passion somehow and later discovered G&L basses as a much better multi-sound option and better value. Check out a G&L Asat or an L2000....you may never want a Fender again tho!

A friend of mine has a Paulmann Tele guitar. It's awesome to play, but my G&L Asat Special sounds better. He's thinking of changing pups too

Bassman amps are reknowned for great tone and incredible clean all the way to 11 on the dial. I don't reckon your amp should be distorting at all unless you put a dirt box in front of it. I guess there could be lots of reasons for your probs; but I think only a tech will be able to tell if there is a valve, component or clone-design fault with the amp. I absolutely know what you mean about Bassman tone too - it's a thing of great beauty. So worth persuing; but maybe you would be better to sell this clone and one of your other amps and go out and buy a real Bassman and go for the 135 this time.

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1135580' date='Feb 21 2011, 03:10 PM']Grit = a touch of growly grindy stuff, think Geddy Lee. Overdrive = starts at "grit" and goes up to "fairly raucous" Distortion = Bees having a fight in a discarded Stella can, difficult to use convincingly on bass. Fuzz = Breaking the signal up to the point of degeneration and gappiness by excessive overdrive.[/quote] Great analysis this; does anyone think Hair would be another category sitting just above grit? This would be like adding a little mould to your signal!

I used to have a Bassman 75 and it was easily loud enough to practice with. I now run a Bassman 135 into an 8ohm 1x15 or a 4ohm 2x15. It is comfortably loud enough to gig with in small to medium situations. So I don't think the original Fender design is a problem. Also don't forget these are valve watts not tranny watts, ie 135 is closer to 300w

Handy thread this. I have a Music Man RD112 guitar combo with same 'insert' fx loop. In fact it has 2 of them, one is line level output and t'other is higher level. These can be used as simple lines in or out too, depending on how far in you push the jack. They can also be used to hook up slave amps too. Smart!

Not sure if this counts, but I nearly had the best £200 bass ever. It was in a pawn shop, but I didn't buy it there and then cos I didn't know what it was then. It turned out to be a late 80s USA G&L Asat Bass ultra rare Leo Fender signature model. I stepped out of the shop to call some dealers to find out exactly what it was and what it was worth. The pawn broker was only asking £185 - the dealers said where is the shop?! So by the time I got back from only 25 yards down the road someone had bought it! Doh! This story still hurts even now and it was over 5 years ago.

[quote name='SignsOfDelirium_bassist' post='1115163' date='Feb 4 2011, 12:44 PM']I can't play guitar for toffee, but I've always wanted a 4&12 doubleneck...Both guitarists in my band are pretty good at the fiddly piddly crap, so I figure I could just play some lovely sounding chords on a 12string to back them up while they go nuts [/quote] I like your style there bro - hang back, don't do much and still be the coolest muttha in the band. Anyone that doesn't think a twin-neck is cool, can't be a true rebel at heart in my book

[quote name='FlatEric' post='1114904' date='Feb 4 2011, 08:24 AM']I love Twin Necks!! I guess it's a Marmite thing! What are you after - 4 & 6, 4 & 8, 4 & 4 (one fretless) or 6 & 12? The only one I don't have it a 4 & 4 - if I'm honest, my fretless playing is OK but not worth me trying to show I can do both and not really pulling it off. Let me know what you're after. DomInSomerset made a cracking Twin, using my Peavy Zodiac as a template - turned out really well. That was a 4 & 4 - might be worth having a chat with him. They are a bit heavy, but you don't play them all night!! Cheers. EDIT. Muppett!! You said 4 & 6 in the post!! Yup defo better bass than guitar. Good advice that about the 6 on top and that twin ric job is freaking A! I was kinda hoping that so few people would be into this idea that you could pick something cool and good for a few hundred squid; as having a custom job is clean outbid my price range for this flight of gloriously unnecessary fancy. So do you reckon it's reasonably possible to pick up something good for not much? I would happily wait 6 months for right opportunity; but would like to know if I am being completely unrealistic Thanks Must try harder Eric!!! Sorreeee!! Something like this. . . . [attachment=71111:RicF.jpg] My advice would be if you are a better bass player than a guitarist, see if you can find a rare 6 at the top - 4 at the bottom - easier to get on with![/quote]

reckon John Shuker would be a good bet for a custom job too. he's local-ish to me (he's near Chesterfield, on the Notts/Derbys border) and he was very helpful fixing up an early one of his basses for me. seemed a decent straight up guy too. i oggled a his Jazz basses at the time (nearly 10 years ago now), they were less than a grand then if i remember correctly - wish i'd had one made then! Another good option would be go for a USA G&L L2000 or Asat Bass instead. better quality bass than any Fender and does some very cool USA sounds that would work great in a Stax set up. In fact I beleive George Porter from The Meters has been using a G&L for a good while now - alright he's not Stax, more Swamp Funk; but sonically i think this option would work very well indeed, possibly better or more interesting than a J or P Bass .

Wow, the michael Henderson - sh*t a great player. Some of his own material as a band leader and singer is great too. Check out Goin' Places.....

Ok there must be some admirers of twin-neck instruments out there. I'm starting to play a bit of guitar as well as bass. My band is a trio with keys and the keys player has some bass pedals, which could free me to play little bits of guitar ocassionaly. So what does anyone know about twin-necks? What are the pitfalls? Any particular makes and models to GAS hard for or to avoid at all costs? Just to give a pointer on my tastes, I'm into classic Fender-ish tones and styles. Thanks for any advice. And if you know of any going for sale at a good price, please let me know.

Tech 21 Boost DLA is an excellent analogue-simulator delay and is buffered by-pass you might want to think about getting the Tap Tempo model though. tap tempo on time based FX is a big plus IMO I also have Boss Reverb Delay v3 and don't rate in nearly as well as the T21 DLA

[quote name='TomTFS' post='1096653' date='Jan 20 2011, 06:52 PM']Here's an excellent rack, you can see it just peeking through a bit. I wish it was mine. [/quote] At last! Thought this was gonna be a good thread from title...

[quote name='UL4120' post='1095635' date='Jan 19 2011, 08:37 PM']Can anyone please help me find an impartial fair and reasonable valuation of my Vox gear.[/quote] Wow 2x18. Have you been making earthquakes?

Lots of good points and I totally agree that there are diamonds and dogs in every era. IME the late 70s have a far higher proportion of dogs than any other. I have owned and tried quite a lot from that era too, but happy to be corrected. I guess it does come down to economics of both collectors and players. Anyway I am glad to hear there is some genuine appreciation of this era from players.

It seems to me like all of a sudden peops are prepared to pay big money for late 70s P Basses. Not so long ago there was broad consensus that late 70s Fenders were dreadful second rate instruments to play and sounded pretty poor too. So what changed? How come people are paying good money for them now? Someone is offering their classic 77 MM Ray for a 70s P in the For Sale right now. That seems like an amazing deal and I wish the seller good luck although IMO he won't need any luck as BCers should beall over that deal. So am I missing something?

I have one of these and I think it has that TA business on it. Don't know what it is but I do know that these are cracking amps. It's my back up amp and I think the TA bit is to do with the dual preamp. One is valve and one solid state this means you can get classic warm phat tones or more edgy modern brittle tones or a blend. Also v good eq and compressor on these amps. Fan is a bit noisy but you won't notice it when playing. All round versatile and excellent value for money.