Prime_BASS

You want one of those split coils that fit under the single coil cover, I forget who does it but I know there is a 5-string version. Also forget about active pre-amps. You just want a quality passive kit with a 250K tone knob.

Seems like a lot of work to help keep the egg timer in time.

Personally I think you'll do best with one of those EA heads, the one that's less than 1kg! It's pretty transparent and through the right cab can sound pretty big. Or similarly the markbass F1 which is light and thin, with the sansamp infront of that or just straight into the power section should fit your needs.

Neither, save some money and order something from Barefaced. The SP210. For a 2x10 "technically" it sounds to me like a 1x10 a little dead, and probably a little bit more low end due to the second speaker pushing more air through the port. Because it's so low however to use it effectively at gigs you'll have to raise it and I'm sure it weighs 18kgs!! For something that small and the volume/sound it produces it could weigh far less. The tc. Sounds as it should, pretty even sound and you only have to wedge it up to hear it while stood up. But just because it's got a tweeter and isn't specifically geared towards vintage sounds doesn't mean you can't EQ out the hi-fi ness. It's 19kgs however. My S12T weighs that and probably goes a lot louder and sounds considerably better at those higher volumes. It comes down to what you need really. Personally I found that the Barefaced midget was fine for rehearsals and gigs with the OTB, but I want the cleanest flattest sound out my rig and not vintage so the head wasn't for me overall, but the added bass in the OTBs pre-amp produced a full sound even through the tiny 1x12. I say get the midget, at 9kgs it's easyier to manage will still do clean hi-fi esque to vintage and will most definatly louder than the orange, maybe for the TC but as it's got better dispersal due to it's height the midget will probably be louder when right infront if it.

If you are worried about boom, stack vertically. The mids and highs will be perceived to be clearer due to the better dispersal and the higher drivers will be closer to your tabs! I think it also decreases that thing that happens when cabs are against Walls and floors, whatever that it. At the end of the day, during sound check you can just stack them both ways and compare....

Id feel comfortable turning up with something smaller than the S12T, as I used to role with just a Barefaced midget and it was fine for on stage monitoring, but not loyd enough or bassy enough for rehearsals or the odd gig that aloud my rig to be more than a monitor.

Acoustic guitar, electric guitar, bass guitar, harp. Who gives a rats ass? I just see strings.

Deal Mr. Banker.

Personally I was thinking around 5k mark. However due to the way things go for sale now it would struggle to go past 3k. Im sure the right buyer would be willing to go higher, and I guess it would be worth more if he had a bit more rock solid proof.

Yeah, same wear on the neck near the body.

The program puts bids in on rare and collectable items. A chap comes on with a P-bass. Apparently it belonged to Dee Dee Ramone in the 80's, it a 76' model White, red pickguard and maple fingerboard. The guy grabbed it after Dee Dee passed it into the audience. The highest offer was £3000. A little low I think but he only has an email from the manager at the time stating it's the bass Dee Dee used. What is your price?

Honestly it depends what kind of gigs you are going to be doing. 9/10 of my gigs are PA equipped and the cab is only providing monitoring so you don't need something huge with loads of possible volume, so a smaller cab will be sufficient. The oranges will never be capable of serious volume due to size and IMO only have a better low end response (due to the double speakers) they never seemed louder than the Barefaced midget I had. The barefaced range is better in every way, louder and lighter and you'll get better use out of the OTB500 with either the midget or the bigger cabs, depending on what you need for gigs. the compacts 15" driver is very good has great midrange punch and enough treble for most sound types. The OTB500 however through the compact is very boomy, as the pre-amp is voiced to be very vintage has loads of bass and not much treble, also the DI is ridiculously hot for any applications and doesn't have it's own attenuation, which is bad if your gigs need DIing. I had this set up for some time before I got a Markbass then got the RH750. The main reason I use a bigger Barefaced cab is that practice requires it, the drummer is loud and the guitarist recently got a much bigger amp and insists on having it as loud as possible. If you give alex an email at barefaced then I'm sure he'll be happy to help.

For those concerned, forgive the confusion last night, I'd consumed a large amount of crabbies gingerbeer. Anyway the switches 1 and 3 still work the opposite way round. The inside looks deliberately complicated, usually I can look inside and know what is what but there is so much going on I'm not surprised some poor Mexican got it wrong on a Friday night. An email has gone to strings and things, I just stated that I would like it fixed without it voiding the warranty.

I can only guess that JAB means jazz bass and the H05 is some kind of part number, as in HO5 connects to H04 etc???? You should be able to date it by the serial number via the Febder website though.

[quote name='BB3000S' post='1269284' date='Jun 14 2011, 09:52 PM']By "up" do you mean "down" as in "pressed into the bass body"?? Button 1 up, ie buttons 2 and 3 down would be (if counting from the bridge) Middle (2) + Neck (3) in parallell. Sure this is not what your in fact getting? The all buttons up setting should be Bridge + Middle in series, this is the setting that has a clear volume and low mid boost. All three buttons down are should be all three PU's wired in parallell, a really nicely full and complex sound. 2 down (not up!) should be the Middle PU, a great and easily spotted P-bass sound. Perhaps you've just developed a backwards logic of how the switching works? No pun intended, it could easily be done. Or I'm just slow... [/quote] I feel you post is wasted. Lol. I mean up as in the up position. When the buttons are in the down position this turns them Off, so up is on. Well I must say the turn out on this thread is great. I can die happy in the knowledge that I made an interesting thread that went on longer than 3 pages with my posts being outweighed by other members lol. Ive just finishe the gig tonight, and I played with the big al, using my new found setting of third button turning the bridge pickup on. I always wondered why I could never get a jaco burping sound out of it, until now that is. I think this brings up another problem, the bridge single coil sounds kinda like my stingray so I think whoever put that SD pickup in my ray wired it in parallel. Any way to find out, if had a look at the wiring before and I'm a bit lost all the wires are just soldered on.

I still have the reciept of purchase from bass merchant. If that helps.

I will keep this updated with what ever news I get off anyone. Ok switches down, sounds to me as if 1+2 in series. 1 up is pickup 3 2 up is pickup 2 3 up is pickup 1 1,2+3 up are all 3, I assume. I only really used all 3 or series mode until today when I was setting it up for the gig I'm at tonight. I have found that the bridge pickup is a better alternative ray sound to my ears. As the series mode sucks some highs, due the pickup spacing (I think) Since you've brought it up these settings could mean nothing now lol. This is just what they are supposed to do.

While te problem is t massive or impedes the sound or playing it's an issue with a bass that cost me well over 1.5k. I will contact strings and things in the morrow see what they say. I don't think it's a simple fix because the whole electronic section sits together on a mesh of PCBs. And yes, my I tension was to never cause a problem over at EBMM forum for White and giggle just wanted to know if it was a wise problem. I would consider this bass to be high end so a silly fault like this is unacceptable, I don't buy new gear often but when I do I expect it to be 100% no matter how small the issue. Even if it turned out this couldnt be rectified I would still want all parties involved to be notified to hopefully prevent it happening again. You don't buy left handed scissors off the net only to discover that they are right handed and stick with it because they are still scissors, it's not what you paid for.

I got my big al about 2 months ago now. I do love it's looks and how it plays, but the sound has been a up and down affair. Anyway..... Today I found out that during the build process they've wired the pickups in the wrong way. If you don't know there are on/off switches for each pickup. The first for the front, 2 for the middle and the third for the back, then there is the active/passive switch. Only on mine the first switch is for the back pickup and the third for the front. Now I have 2 issues. 1. My big al isn't as it should be, what can I do about this? My own answer is, it's not a major issue, now I know I can fully enjoy it however I feel I should contact 1 of either bass merchant, strings and things or heaven forbid EBMM themselves(and start a sh*t storm.) 2. How on earth did I notice this? I always had a niggle in the back of my head that in some positions it didnt sound as right or as well as it did on the model I tried back in November. Obviously my ears arnt as tuned as I thought, but now I know what the problem is it's opened a whole lot of possibilities. I know that QC is a little ropey from horror stories I've heard and admittedly this isn't un playable damage, but what do the QC checks entail? And how many more are like this??? Discus!

MusicmanStingray MysoniSagay

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1268170' date='Jun 14 2011, 07:48 AM']I like JJs. I liked it in the "old" MIA Deluxe P in the bridge position, and the MEC versions found in the Infinity/Vampyre/Dolphin/Fortress MM etc. work a treat, too. In reality, they don't work or sound [i]that[/i] different to what you'd expect a MMHB to. I don't think Fender are just chucking stuff together. These configurations have already been used by other manufacturers. I do wonder which neck is on which bass, though. To be really perverse, they could use a P neck on the Jazz body and vice-versa for the other model![/quote] The picture of the P looks like a P neck. I'll be trying that one out for sure. The proof will be in the pudding I guess.

Since I'm getting new time off in my new job I be able to attend to lot more bashes. Yay!!! I always enjoy touching other people's gear

I have 2 playlists on my iPhone. One for guitar and the other bass, only one song over laps "my sharona" the bass ones have to be separate as they are more interesting to play but I could if I had to play either instrument with both playlists. Altogether it's exactly 100 songs. However this doesn't include any that I learned and don't own. I think adding any songs to a playlist is a good way of at least keeping track. Although I could never sit there and play 100 songs, and sometimes I have to remind myself how to play ones ive not bothered going over for a while. On the large part aswell I'm not playing each song note for note, playing 20 blink 182 basslines gets rather repetitive, so usually I'll make up stuff while playing.

I'm not sure how to take that