Prime_BASS

this is the first I've heard of someone with such a cool name.

Would be nice butyou can tell it's low end doesn't go anywhere near 60hz. Which boosting purely 70hz on my bass and cutting everything else it'll produce low end itks just not too deep or big. I thought I could take out the tweeter and port that? I don't use the tweeter anyway.

After a near 3 year wait I got a 806HE(I think its HE) true blue massive(for me) ampeg. Now it's not got the best low end extension for it's size (the drivers arent paritculaly packed in there, and im sure more efficient designs could pack in 10" speakers!) This is fine for rehearsing/practicing at our centre, I just boost the low mid a little. Some where down the line I'll want to gig with it (although the compact can handle everything I'm doing right now) just for the sake and I'd all so like to just improve it aswell, everything should be made to the best it can be and I know that it this had a further extended low end it'd be one killer cab. Anyway. It's essentially 2x 4x6.5" drivers with the top section having a tweeter in the middle. It's also sealed. What I would like to do is something that I can do on my own, won't cost a great deal and is reversable if needs be. I thought about upgrading drivers but I know nothing of the thiele/Small parameters and gubbins, so if I did this I wouldn't know if it would be a disastor or not, but I can install them fine on my tod. I could also do what alex has done with the 69er cab, and effectrively have one side as subs and the the other as regular/mid range drivers. Another thing I could do is add some ports. this is fairly easy as I understand and will extend the low end put also decrease it's volume on the low side aswell (???????????? clueless I am) Just using my ear I would say it's got a fairly steep roll off after 150hz as the low end rumble is barely there at all. I'm not after miracles I would just like it to be a bit lower(and possibly llouder in the lows too ) and lighter (neo?)

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1327155614' post='1507116'] Ed Friedland had something to say about slap in this clip. About 1 minute in. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUy-9v5dQkA[/media] [/quote] Ed can do no wrong!

To me, a good bass should be no more than £600, teh used price is fair indication of how good something actually is. Exceptions like rare basses or the ridiculously expensive do not count. I have spent more than triple this amount, only to move it on and keep thwacking my £600 bit of wood.

For me personally, I'd rather use what I decide is best for the sound, looks can swivel. If the music is dead then there is no point, I don't care how skinny the singers jeans are. But on the other side of it, if it was for an established act, or osme kind of tribute and you get paid good and often then I think I may do as I'm told. However I would never want to go this way at all. I vote Darkness tribute act.

[quote name='basstech' timestamp='1327859488' post='1517786'] Hartke LH1000 amp and 2x BF Big Twins £2,750 [/quote] Are you playing wembley with no PA???????????? Without sarcasm, if you want that 8x10 feeling of power, then either the BF Super15 will be a sure fire hit, with much better sound than the ampeg, or the barefaced '69 which is BF's take on the classic fridge. I thought I'd add, that you should definatly try before you buy, especially when you are shelling out that kind of dough, but you also have to remeber youy have to live with the amp/cab aswell. Lugging around cabs that are heavier than my house is definitly not for me.

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1327859691' post='1517788'] Regardless of the opinions expressed by us and the OP, there is still no-one from ibass to defend their actions so this discussion should be done privately or with sides involved. [/quote] Im not sure where the blocking was done, or how or why, (I gather it was on their forum?) countless times people speak bad word of someone's product or a manufacturer's or publisher's actions that appear all over the place and the defendent, so to speak, isn't always available to speak to defend them selves, so why should this guy's dislike of ibass be any different? Freedom of speech and all that. All though I agree his dislike of ibass magazine is a little unjust as the actions were done by someone probably outside of ibass. This thread and the OP should have directed the dislike towards the moderator who blocked him without no notice and no comms.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1327868701' post='1518033'] This is the point that people seem to completely fail to understand. I feel like a broken record, but dead spots. They exist, they are due to the materials/construction and prove conclusively (not that it's needed since Newton already did that job several hundred years ago, but he didn't apply the physics of mass-spring-damper systems to electric bass!) that wood contributes to tone. Whether it's 'negligible' or not depends on what you're comparing, of course. [/quote] People seem to gleem over the fact that in a mix a lot is negligable. Which is what I said in my first post about this subject. I'm not totally blind to the fact that elements outside of electronics, pickups and strings (and one's own playing) will determine sound, but in a real world mix it could be a squier with sadowsky electrics or a sadowsky with squier electrics. Solo'd is a different thing, and to us as bassists I would say we have a better ear for the subtleties of basses. Another thing about upgrading. I saw once a scientific analysis of a badass2 bridge against the fender BBOT. There was nothing in it, at all. As long as the bass is solid and of good construction, you cant go wrong and I think definitly upgrading the electrics and the pickups will make a difference. I am by no means saying that it could be made out of bread and butter and it'll sound exactly like a graphite bass. People need not be so narrow minded yet wake up to the fact that 'tone wood' makes little difference to a average joe gigging bass player. There is also a the feel factor. For me I love my sterling bass, aside from it's defects in neck stability, and a new one doesn't really cut it for me. It's like the character factor that some old cars have. Nostalgic nonsense. I'd rather not debate about this as it's just as pointless as a funk and groove debate.

This isn't helping my stange SUB gas. I have a feeling the newer SBMM range coming this year will not be anywhere near as good as the original ones. I really want a burgandy sterling version. The reason why the SUB is so good is that it can be picked up for less than a lot of everything else and it's built in the US from the saem parts as the main line. The 'cost saving' is visible only, it sounds like a bass that should be priced far higher than what it is (even when it was new) When I had one and a Stingray, there was a definate difference and the lows were a bit bigger I guess, but I found the SUB a bit more open across the frequencies, but I just prefered the ray.

I voted the original aluminum one since Sterling Ball obviously knows better than everyone, thus the original must stay on it and if you change it we shall burn you at the stake..... Wrong forum?

yes. You can either load a single 8 ohm cab with 500 watts, or in 4 ohm setting 1 4 ohm cab with 500 watts or two 8 ohm cabs with 500 watts. Why other manufactures don't do this is stupid.