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Posted

Hi all,

about to rosin my new carbon bow for the first time. Any advice?

The rosin is Petz #2, and is very hard and shiny. The bow is Yitamusic carbon.

The only youtube info I can find is either about violins or has folk disagreeing and calling each other idiots.

Like, should the rosin be stroked on in one direction only?


many thanks :)

Posted

I was originally taught to use downstrokes only.

And Bob recons "frog to tip"

[url="http://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/23-ROSIN_CHOICES_AND_USE.html"]http://www.gollihurmusic.com/faq/23-ROSIN_...ES_AND_USE.html[/url]

I have no idea why you wouldn't want to apply it as cellists do (back & forth) but habit dictates.

Posted

I do bow to tip three or four times and then try it for size. Personally, I find it kind of makes more sense as your arco technique improves. Same with bow tension. It makes sense when it makes sense. My bow is a carbon fibre Finale French bow from String Emporium - improving all the time.

Posted

[quote name='Bilbo' post='950677' date='Sep 9 2010, 02:48 PM']I do bow to tip three or four times and then try it for size.[/quote]

In my experience, the key is doing this quickly. It would appear that the transference of rosin from the cake to the bow is caused by heat melting the rosin, which then sticks to the bow hair. The heat is generated by the friction that moving it quickly over the bow hair generates. If you do this correctly you'll see little tracks from the bow hair on the cake of rosin afterwards.

All this carry on with rubbing the thing up and down endlessly is for fiddlers with their powdery rosin.

How I wrote this post with a straight face I will never know.

Jennifer

PS The Yita CF bow I bought got going quickly when rosined when new; another bow I had re-haired took ages before it would work properly.

Posted

[quote name='endorka' post='950733' date='Sep 9 2010, 03:45 PM']In my experience, the key is doing this quickly. It would appear that the transference of rosin from the cake to the bow is caused by heat melting the rosin, which then sticks to the bow hair. The heat is generated by the friction that moving it quickly over the bow hair generates. If you do this correctly you'll see little tracks from the bow hair on the cake of rosin afterwards.

All this carry on with rubbing the thing up and down endlessly is for fiddlers with their powdery rosin.

How I wrote this post with a straight face I will never know.

Jennifer

PS The Yita CF bow I bought got going quickly when rosined when new; another bow I had re-haired took ages before it would work properly.[/quote]


Got a chance to try again, and still not a lot of joy. Maybe it's like the second bow you mentioned.

I might wait till I get to see a teacher early next month.

Posted

[quote name='fatback' post='950085' date='Sep 8 2010, 11:23 PM']The only youtube info I can find is either about violins or has folk disagreeing and calling each other idiots.[/quote]
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8UsIwa-BhQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8UsIwa-BhQ[/url]

Don't know if you've seen that already, I have no idea if it's the right way to do it but she seems like a nice lady.

Posted

[quote name='fatback' post='957618' date='Sep 15 2010, 07:58 PM']I might wait till I get to see a teacher early next month.[/quote]

Don't worry too much about over-doing it. What's the worst that could happen? You're not likely to run out of rosin, maybe you'll get your strings dusty, either way it will rub off your bow (and your strings) over time anyway.

Just keep giving it more and bowing and seeing what happens.

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