dlloyd Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 My old guitarist friend is looking for a set of replacement valves for his silverface twin. 6V6s, apparently. I've never had much luck with valve amps and have never had one long enough to replace the valves... can anyone recommend a supplier? Are they all pretty much the same brand-wise? Is there a budget supplier and, if so, is there a reason you'd avoid using them? Cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamster Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 [url="http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp"]http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp[/url] More valves than you can shake a plectrum at. Personally I'd go for JJ valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlloyd Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 [quote name='Hamster' post='953265' date='Sep 12 2010, 12:08 AM'][url="http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp"]http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp[/url] More valves than you can shake a plectrum at. Personally I'd go for JJ valves.[/quote] Just the ticket! Cheers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonewheels Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 A twin would use 6L6 rather than 6V6 valves. You can populate it with 6V6s and get around half the power (no bad thing with a twin) and there'll be an impedance mismatch which would threaten the valves and the the OPT though I've never had a problem. Also 6V6s aren't supposed to take more than 350V Va whereas an SV twin will probably be 450V plus. There are some NOS 6V6 valves that will take the volts and sound superb. The Brimar CV511 and the French 1950s war department valves by Masda are up to it. The Brimars are real hooligan jobs and the French ones more creamy. Good 6L6s are harder to find. Sylvania or Philips are good. RCA better. Don't like any of the current production. I've wired my Twin (early silverface but converted to blackface schematic) so I can switch the speakers from parallel (4 ohm) to series (16 ohm). When in series I can run it with only two 6V6s, giving a 22W amp with a massive power supply, stupidly overspecced OPT and loads of speaker area (did I mention original Jensen P12Ns). Drop the OP valve HT with a power resistor to help with valve life and give some voltage sag compression. Sounds like God. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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