Barrel Jack - Stereo - TRS

[xilddx]

I have a Warwick stereo barrel output jack I need to solder to, mono though. I just need to know which pins are which, because I can't seem to find out!

I think the large outside pin has to be sleeve.

The two other pins are on the same radius, but one is smaller than the other. Can I assume the smaller is tip?

Thanks for any help.

[Ou7shined]

Plug in a lead and test the outputs at the other end with a multimeter.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1002545' date='Oct 27 2010, 02:53 PM']Plug in a lead and test the outputs at the other end with a multimeter.[/quote]
Thanks mate, but I don't have a multi meter. I thought someone would know because I assume they are all the same. No worries, I will probably be able to work it out looking at my otherWarwicks, but their colours are not to be trusted

BTW, I love your Foamy Stingray Jazz, good build thread that! Very clean work on the innards!!

[mart]

[quote name='silddx' post='1002552' date='Oct 27 2010, 02:57 PM']Thanks mate, but I don't have a multi meter. I thought someone would know because I assume they are all the same. No worries, I will probably be able to work it out looking at my otherWarwicks, but their colours are not to be trusted

BTW, I love your Foamy Stingray Jazz, good build thread that! Very clean work on the innards!! [/quote]

I have the answer to this written down at home, from when I changed my sockets a few weeks back. But in the meantime: You're right that the outer one is the shielding/ground, and I think you're right that the shortest one is the tip. Although the Warwick colours are dodgy, the black from the battery should connect to one of the inner ones, and whichever one that is, the tip is the other one!

Edited October 27, 2010 by mart

[51m0n]

IME normally shortest is tip, but I have seen a couple of nasty cheap ones where that wasnt the case.

I bought myself one of those cheap'n'nasty maplins mulitmeters just for the connectivity testing beeep it can do for issues like this. They arent more than a tenner and take all the hassle out of this sort of thing...

[flyfisher]

Ditto.

Or cobble together a tester using a torch bulb and suitable battery.

A multimeter is almost essential for anyone who makes up cables.

The other thing I have is one of these: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/test-gear/behringer-cable-tester-ct100/invt/370030/?source=215_4"]http://www.studiospares.com/test-gear/behr...0/?source=215_4[/url]
It can save lots of time when setting up at rehearsal or a gig and things don't seem to be working right.

[mart]

Okay, on my Streamer and Rockbass (both active), the white is the hot lead, and goes to the shorter pin on the socket.

You could always plug a cable in, lick the other end of the cable, and attach a 9v battery to the outer pin and one of the others. If you get a buzz, then the one touching the battery is the tip! It'll certainly make you realize why you should buy a multimeter

[Ou7shined]

[quote name='silddx' post='1002552' date='Oct 27 2010, 02:57 PM']Thanks mate, but I don't have a multi meter. I thought someone would know because I assume they are all the same. No worries, I will probably be able to work it out looking at my otherWarwicks, but their colours are not to be trusted

BTW, I love your Foamy Stingray Jazz, good build thread that! Very clean work on the innards!! [/quote]
Hey cheers.

As already mentioned, if you don't have access to a multimeter you can knock up a continuity tester with just a bulb (or an LED + a resistor) and a battery.

[xilddx]

Thanks for all the help chaps.

I went with my instinct for the pins and got it right, I think! Anyway, the bass sounds diamond, apart from a slight crackle occasionally which may be a ground issue. I think my best best is to give it to Martin Petersen for a check over.

Thanks again

Nigel